Georgia Pt 1

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After the last, epic, entry this one is likely to pale in comparison for one main reason the weather.

We moved on the hundred miles or so south from South Carolina into Georgia. Our destination was that other southern city we have all heard or read about, Savannah. Like Charleston, it reminds you of a bygone age, when life was tough but exudes that certain charm. As I said the weather conspired to ensure we didn’t see the City at its best. Whereas we’ve been able to enjoy everywhere we’ve visited so far by walking, now the heavens decided to open up and let us have it. Undeterred, we drove the beast into Savannah, parked up in the visitors centre and acted like lazy tourists and took a ‘hop on/off’ trolley tour.

Savannah was founded in 1733 by James Edward Oglethorpe and a group of English settlers. The fact that it flourished where Spanish and French settlements nearby failed was almost by luck. The peninsula chosen was in a no man’s land between the warring Catawba to the North, the Cherokee to the West and the Timucua to the South. The first thing you notice about Savannah is that it is properly laid out, a bit like the squares in the finer areas of London or maybe what the fathers of Milton Keynes had in mind. The city is made up of 21 squares, each with a park in the middle, surrounded by genteel homes, stately churches or little shops. We took in about half the squares on the trolley before deciding to brave the rain and try to find a bit of the city ourselves. We got off at City Market, a collection of restaurants, quaint shops and, much to Lisa’s delight, a magnificent ‘candy store’. Fancy chocs purchased and quickly consumed (to give us energy you understand) we headed off to Oglethorpe Sq. Here was the Owens Thomas house, the first house in Savannah to have electricity and, just like today, people used to wait outside in the square, but then it was to see the magic of the lights coming on. If only it were that easy to entertain the kids now. We wandered on past the Colonial Park cemetery where, during the civil war, troops who made camp here used to amuse themselves by altering the headstones. One young lady now boasted a 200 year lifespan rather than the original 20 and another poor soul died before they were born. While Oglethorpe was ‘in town’ duels were prohibited but after he left it again became an acceptable way of resolving differences. Quite handily the duelling site was right next to the cemetery saving the loser’s family transport costs. Next we came upon the Cathedral of St John the Baptist. Nice from the outside but we are so glad we popped in. Wow. We’ve seen some wonderful churches in our lives but this was incredible. Some of the colourful artwork wouldn’t look out of place in Rome.

We decided to have a look inside one of the ‘great houses’ of Savannah, and chose the home of one of the South’s most successful cotton merchants, Andrew Low. Constructed in 1848 it was a fine example of the splendour of the period. Now maybe it’s because we are spoiled coming from a country that has over 1000 years of architecture and history but we were both a little disappointed. Yep, it was a nice pad (probably very fine in its day), and yep some of the furniture was great but I’ve seen better in friends (or parents) houses. Never mind, can’t win them all.

No trip to Savannah would be completed without a visit to the site of the bench on which Forrest Gump sat. Unfortunately it has now been removed to a nearby museum, but you can still follow the course of the feather at the start of the film which floats from the steeple of the Independent Presbyterian Church to the centre of Chippewa Square. Life really is like a box of chocolates (well Lisa’s is).

At this point we hopped back on the trolley bus, to complete the tour of the city. It took us past the only ugly buildings in the Historic district, yep the tax office, down past City Hall with its gold dome and into the waterfront district. The old cotton exchanges where the south’s produce was exported to Europe are still there but now it’s a lively, music & art district with copious bars to liven the mood. (Apparently Savannah has the 2nd largest St Patrick’s Day celebrations in the US, after NY). It would have been great to spend a sunny afternoon soaking up the atmosphere (and produce) - oh well. The trolley finally dropped us off back at the visitor centre and we decided that the weather had beaten us and we would hop back in the RV and drive south in search of some sun.

This hasn’t done Savannah justice; it’s a beautiful city, as impressive in its way as Charleston. Where the latter is charming, Savannah is more refined, more dignified. You can imagine Rhett & Scarlett promenading on a sunny Sunday afternoon, and although we were tempted to recreate this scene the rain dampened our moods.

Onwards to find some sunshine.

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Photos

Drowned
At least 3 people took pleasure in telling us that the weather was specifically ordered for 'you brits' to make us feel at home.

Entertaining
Tight fisted parents made their children stand outside just to watch the electric lights come on. X Factor 1884.

Dueling Site
Lose and you are moved next door.

Andrew Low House
Probably impressive in Savannahs hey day.

Cathedral
Impressive

Forrest Gump
The feather started at this steeple.

Forrest Gump
And ended here where the bench should be. Life really is like a box of chocs, you look forward to the truffle and then someone put it in a museum!!

Cathedral
Cathedral of St John the Baptist.

Comments

[Anna]

Good Picture!
Thanks Lisa, thats much better!