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Published: March 27th 2006
Why no photopgraphs (still)?
In Cape Town I had all my pictures burned on to DVD. The rest of Africa doesn't have computers with DVD players. Doh!
However for Durban I was advised against using my camera as it the chances of it being stolen were high.
Sorry guys. Hopefully I can get the DVD's back to my brother soon, who will post them on his website.
And on with my adventures....
After the 7 hour bus ride I found myself in Durban wondering where to stay. A quick flick through the Coast to Coast (a free book about backpacker hostels in southern africa, and a hell of a lot more up to date than my lonely planet) and plugged for a place called 'Home Backpackers'. The idea being that its a home away from home.
And you know what. It sort of is! I had actually come across some where that is as clean as my own home!
As I arrived Late afternoon my first priority is to get out there and get some food (I still cant beleive that I'm finding myself walking around supermarkets, but I guesse I've got to eat)
Some facts about Durban....
It has the largest population of Indians outside India
It has Africa's largest port
It has the largest Mosque in the Southern Hemisphere (beleive me it 'aint that big)
It is famous for a food called bunny chow
It has a Super 14 Rugby (union) team
It is the place where I discovered what 'Bafana Bafana' means
So what did I do...
The first evening I found myself in a conversation with a Greek called Sofia. Sofia persuaded me to go to a super 14 rugby match with her the following evening and we started talking about the usual mix of stuff that backpackers do.
Now I know I'm pathetic for letting this happen but the first evening also presented a rare opportunity for me to catch up with Reading FC. How? There was a game on satalite TV. Reading v Southampton. G'arn Urz. Fortunately It had been a long day and I was feeling tired or I may have cheered loader when the final whistle went with Reading winning 2-0.
That evening I was talking to one of the guys that work at the place and I had one question on my mind:
Who the hell is this Bafana Bafana bloke over the back of the news papers?
Well it isn't a bloke. Its a football team. It is, infact the name for the South African national team and means 'The Boys The Boys'. This explination was followed by a piss take of the national team for not even managing to score one goal in the African Cup Of Nations, including one incident where some one missed an ope goal from 5 meters out. Apparently he tried to bicycle kick it when all he needed to do was head it in. Boys will be boys...
The First Morning in Durban saw me heading into town on a bus. I was determined to find the mosque. After half an hour of walking around I found it. It was closed. I didn't go back as I was told that my trainers look nice (a theme I have gotten through out my travels) and would probably end up stolen.
Now as strange as this seems I also found myself eating at Nando's. Why? In England Nando's is not halal. In South Africa ALL chicken is halal. Personally I dont know what all the fuss is about. I ordered my chicken extra hot. The person serving thought I was mad and could barely keep a laugh down. The food was about as bland as tesco's bread and had something spicey spilt over it, but wasn't threating to set my taste buds on fire.
Next up was Victoria Street Market, a bizzar mixture of curio, indian, spice shops and a supermarket my eyes, ears and nose started to come alive with the different things there. Across the road was a more african market, so instead of spending money I headed over there. I was the only non-black there and there. It felt abit wierd. I was stared at where ever I went and I think at one point a security guard was going to stop me from going any further. What was there? Lots of fake designer goods and african herbal healing shops, all of whom saw me as a potential customer.
As this area of Durban is very busy, hot and cramped I decided to walk to the backpackers via the scenic route (the Botanical Gardens) and a shopping center.
The gardens weren't much. I did, however, try to identify the trees. I got them all wrong. So much for the information from the course staying in my head! What I find even more disturbing is the fact that I'm was still trying to identify trees.
Next up was the shopping center. I saw a bookshop. I went in. THEY SERVE CHOCOLATE CAKE!!!!!!!!! That was most of the afternoon taken care of.
Afterwards I decided to buy something proper to eat and headed of to the nearest Kwik Spar, before continuing the walk back.
When I had left I asked the guys at the place I was staying how long it would take to walk back. The reply was along the lines off "about an hour but its all up hill". Uphill! No problem.
When he said uphill he ment uphill! My legs ached and I still had my first ever rugby match to go that evening.
Minibus Taxis
Every where I have gone in Southern Africa there have always been minibus taxis. I was warned not to use them in Joburg however Durbs is another kettle of fish. Sofia said that she has been using them and I couldnt let my self be upstaged by a girl so minibus taxi into town it was. We met Hienz (a Swiss also going to the game) and off we set.
We flagged one down and got in. The back looked pretty full so I sat in the passenger seat. Now here's one thing you should know about African buses.
They are never actually full until some one is sat in the boot. Also the drivers drive like maniacs and the minibuses never seem to be fit to be on the road.
We stopped to pick some one else up. I had to move into the middle of the front seat.
Now the fun began.
I had no seat belt and the driver was driving into a very busy city center very quickly, while swerving in and out of traffic. I clutched on to the seat and preyed he didnt brake hard. I almost closed my eyes but then decided that in order to give me the best chance of survival I needed to know what was coming...
Nothing happened. We were dropped off too look for a taxi to the stadium. I'm alive!!!!!
Sharks v Cheifs
In my short time in South Africa I have discovered that rugby union is big. Very big. And the matches dont get much bigger than Super 14. The Durban Sharks didn't have a good season last time out but people were hopefull. We qued for our tickets (all of 7 GBP!) and in we went.
Wow what an atmosphere. They had bands playing and every one was just chilled and enjoying themselves.
Then came the hard part. Trying to explain rugby, a sport I bearly knew the rules of to a Greek who wanted to know all about it. I think I got the gist of it over, but I couldn't even convince myself that I knew what I was talking about.
The game itself was good. The Sharks won. However the atmosphere, for the actual game was abit... dead. All they did was sit and watch the game, applause occasionally and get very excited when the free beer for a year competion was being decided.
The after match experience was also different. Rather than herd every one off and encourage them to disperse, as we do in Blighty, people hung around for a party with live music. People even brought their brii's (barbeque) with them...
The Beach
Before I start this bit I would like to point out that I'm not really a beach person as I have a healthy respect for oceans and what they can do as well as not being particularly comfortable around deep water. However....
Sunday morning found me wondering down to the beach, to have a look at what all the fuss was about. The plan for the day was to spend an hour there decide it was nice and then move on to find some bunny chow and the BAT arts center.
Wow. What a beach. The indian ocean was this amazing green/blue colour. The sand was powdery and white. The sun was hot and the sound was like any other beach. But WOW!
I spent most of my morning walking up and down the surf line. It is absolutely fantastic. And hot. Very hot. So hot I almost burnt the soles of my feet on the sand!
Bunny Chow
Once I had enough of burning feet I decided to head over to the a place called the 'Workshop' a bit of a tourist spot in the mddle of Durbs. Why? Apparently I could find some of the best Bunny Chow here.
I wondered into a place called the Oriental (it looked Indian) and a waiter approached. The conversation went something like this...
"Hello sir can I help you?"
"Yes. I'm looking for something called bunny chow."
Smile appears on waiters face "We have that here. What curry would you like?"
"I asked for bunny chow not curry."
"Please sir take a seat and I will explain what bunny chow is"
I took a seat and the waiter pulled out the menu and put it in front of me. He then told me about the history of this food.
Apparently when the Indians first arrived in South Africa they could not afford chipatti flour. Instead they took a loaf of bread hollowed it out and stuffed their curries into that. Why its called bunny chow and not curry in a loaf was never explained. Or maybe it was and I was too busy trying to decide what curry I should have.
"Are you Indian sir?"
"No I'm British, but my parents are Pakistani."
"Ahh, so you have curry at home?"
"Yep."
"In that case I would suggest that you have your favourite from home."
"Okay. Chicken it is, but what size?"
"I would suggest half a loaf"
"Mmmm. Okay"
So ten minutes later I was faced with the task of eating half a loaf of bread stuffed with curry.
Twenty minutes later I was full and still looking at half of my portion.
I gave up when I realised that I might not be able to get out of my seat if I ate the remaining quarter!
However bunny chow is gorgeuos. Imagine eating a delicious curry with freshly baked bread. mmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.
BAT Center
Belly full and belt buckle loosened I decided it was time to walk off lunch. I headed towards a place called the BAT Center.
I dont remember what BAT stands for but the place is a workshop for artists in Durban. Most of it was closed. What little I did see was dissapointing and priced out of my budget.
Time to walk back into town and get a bus home. It started pooring down with rain and I didnt have a clue where I was going. I got very wet. But as the day had been good I didn't mind.
When I got back to Home Backpackers I noticed that about 6 new people had moved into the dorm. Mmmmm the potential for load snorers had just gone up.
Leaving Durban
The following morning I woke early to wave Sofia off. She had decided to go to Cape Town via Port Elizebeth on the Baz Bus (An overpriced and slow door to door bus service for backpackers). I then had the whole day to figure out how to get there myself.
I didnt want to take another bus as the journey was about 24 hours and left early in the morning. I decided that train was probably the way forward, and would be relatively safe if I booked first class.
However as I was calling the train company some one else was speaking to the staff about cheap flights to Cape Town. I decided to hover around reception adn hopefully I would be able to gleen some usefull info.
The flight was cheaper than the train. And the coach and it only took 2 hours. Bargian. I rushed for my credit card and booked!
I then introduced myself to the person who I would be travelling in the same direction, and started to talk about places too stay.
It was then time to decide what to do with the rest of my day.
I did nothing. Of significance. I went back to the shopping center and had some more chocolate cake, bought a few supplies and made up my mind to stay at a place called 'Ashanti' in CT (I cant be bothered typing out Cape Town any more especially as its the next entry).
I went back and spoke to the person who was flying with me and she was going to the same place. Great! I decided that maybe I should commit Sarah's name to memory and start using it.
As I was mulling around wondering what to do about me dinna a German by the name of Suza, who was in the same dorm as me and who I was talking to the night before offered to share a tuna salad with me! Saved!
Then it was on to the packing. I looked at my possensions that had spread out under my bed and wondered how on earth I had managed to get it all into my rucksack. 2 hours (!) later I was done firm in the knowledge that in the next 5 days I would have to repack everything after having unpacked it in CT.
The Flight Out
Morning came Sarah and I loaded our belongings into the airport transfer. Once at the airport we had a bit of time to kill before boarding so coffee and another chocolate cake it was.
Now let me tell you abit about Sarah. She is 22 and recently graduated from an arts degree. Towards the end of her time at university she entered and won a photography competetion.
The prize?
A round the world photojournalism assignment to report on the fire hazards faced by backpackers on behalf of a charity called the
The Childrens Fire And Burns Trust.
Why do I feel the need to mention this charity?
I was asked to pose for some photographs and whilst the chances are high that those pictures wont be put on the net I'm still pretty chuffed that I was asked to be a model.
(I've checked recently and there's a photo of me on there. Let the modelling contracts role in...)
Sarah's travel blog can be found at:
http://www.childrensfireandburntrust.org.uk/news/gypsi/
Also the poor girl ended up putting up with my 'crazyness' for the next 3 days... (Comments like "Indians in Durban look wierd, they're darker than normal....")
Then it was it was onto the flight (apparently we were late and they started calling our names out over the pa system, another first) and away...
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Carter
non-member comment
Very jealous
Hi Grizzly, Mate I am very jealous, but sounds like your trip is full of adventures and fun ! All is well here, my holiday to Aus went a treat and I am off to Rio for a week holiday over Easter to see the missus, otherwise playing footy and learning my new job at the moment. Keep the reports coming in and keep eating the bread with curry in it, I like the sound of it - my two favourite fruits together at last ! Cheers Carter