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Published: August 26th 2009
August 10-16
Morocco was our first non-European stop on our trip and was a great introduction of what's to come. Honestly, I thought we'd be easing into things with Morocco. I was so wrong.
To get to the African continent we took a ferry from S. Spain to Tangier, crossing the strait of Gibraltar. We opted for the slow, 2.5 hours, ferry that left from Algeceras. The ferry itself was quite nice and very comfortable. We thought " if this is what's to come, we're in luck." On the boat we met a group of five brothers from the UK and we decided to join them on the hunt for a hotel. Before I forget, we had to travel sixteen hours to get to Tangier and we had been awake fro at least twenty-one. This is because we left from Gran Canaria.
When we disembarked we were amazed at the visual contrast of Morocco and Spain. Tangier looked so warn and the city was so compact.Surprisingly , nobody approached us to "help" us find a hotel or sell us stuff. Later we realized we were in a protected "tourist" zone. Once we reached the medina (old town) the brothers were approached constantly and they were drawn into the lure of a local helping them find a hotel. We went from place to place, from old city to new, looking for a room. they were alldisappointing , but fairly cheap. Finally weariness set in and we decided on a place in the new city. Once we relaxed a bit, slapped ourselves, and said "pull it together man," we were off to eat.
Food in Morocco shouldn't be expensive. You should only spend $4 to $5 dollars a person, tops. We knew this and saw a street stall with tables and thought it would be cheap and delicious. A great first meal in a country know for it's food. We set down, were warmly greeted and order salad, kebabs and bread. Everything was good and the atmosphere was endlessly interesting. Then came the bill, almost $20. What!? Instantly we realized our mistake, we ordered without a menu and prices. This was the first time we were ripped off. After diner we knew we had to move on, so we left in the morning, after our first experience with mint tea. Moroccan mint tea is amazing and addicting. It'sGreen tea, fresh mint and a lot of sugar.
Five ours and two buses later we were in Chefchaouen. Oh, when we transferred buses the guy helping with our bags demanded $2.50. He should only get about .80. Ripped off again. Chefchaouen was a wake up call. This city is beautiful! The streets were immaculate clean and the medina was like nothing we'd ever seen. All the buildings were blue and white and the medina was large enough to explore but small enough to not get too lost. At night during dinner all the restaurants are illuminated by candle light. With the glow of the candles and the sugar date and fig sellers in the medina we felt as if we were walking the streets of Agrabah, from Disney's Aladdin.
On our second day we decided to go out into the Rif mountains and check out the view. The landscape is absolutely stunning. We hiked for about an hour then stopped to take a swim in the unimaginably refreshing river. We did expect to see waterfalls, but took the wrong path. It's ok, the hike was worth it.
After a break in the hills we were ready to travel to fez, the oldest medieval walled Muslim city in the world. We had talked to other travelers and they all said Fez was a must. So we hopped another bus and were off.
This is were I must explain the title. Buses in Morocco are driven fast, along winding bumpy roads. On our first bus trip bags were handed out to the kids. This was for them to throw up in. It wasn't "in case" it was for when they did. All the kids did it. On our second trip at least three adults threw up, they weren't given bags, but they wereprepared. We didn't get sick, but watching others sure made me think about it.
Once we arrived in Fez we went strait to a hotel recommended by other travelers. Our plan was to sleep on the roof. But, when we got there we realized the roof wasn't our scene and we were promptly asked if we'd like to stay in a small Riad nearby. The guy working in the hotel had an Aunt that rented space in her house. We were thrilled! The house itself was beautiful and the room was cheap. Our room was nice but at least 87 degrees at night, and no fan. Either way, the lounge area had a lot of space and was very comfy. Breakfast was included and dinner was cooked by the owner in typical Moroccan fashion. "What's the catch?" The man that showed us the room offered us a tour of the city. Only $25.Pricey, yes, but we were staying in a great, cheap hotel. So, we agreed but he couldn't take us until Saturday, so he recommended we take a day trip the next day. He said everything would be closed on Friday, it's a holiday, so Saturday would be better. Our Friday day trip was a waste of a day and not worth writing about. We should have stayed in Fez.
The tour began at 7 am on Saturday, but the guy we wanted to show us around stuck us with his cousin. It seemed, everybody was related in Fez. He was constantly asking us if we had purchased anysouvenirs from Morocco yet. "No, and we aren't planning on it either." we replied. He didn't believe us. The tour started so early that all the shops were closed. Right there we knew it was strange. If we couldn't go on Friday because the shops were closed, why were we up before they open? Oh well. The tour consisted of our guide telling us Fez is the capitol of hand crafts and showing us door ways. Most of it was long stretches of silence to get to the doorways. The only truly interesting part was the tannery. This is were they refine the animal hides to make leather. Since we were there so early we did witness donkeys carrying the hides on their backs totransport them. Besides the chemicals used, the process hasn't changed much in hundreds of years. This was the second time I almost threw up. The smell was horrible and the working conditions were filthy. Now, when I smell leather I will think of that place.
Also while on the tour we witnessed the streets being cleaned. Traffic is not allowed in the medina so they use donkeys. The donkeys are outfitted with bags to carry the trash. As they walk they defecate in the street. My understanding is, this is not considered trash.Our tour concluded in a rug shop where we were shown many different types of rugs.Once we made it clear we weren't buying we were told we co8 ld find our own way back. So, we paid and left. The tour was suppose to be six hours long, it was only on and a half, what a waste.
Minutes later we left Fez for Asilah. We were going to stay another night, but we were too angry so we left. This time we took the train which was at least 90 degrees and 5 hours long. After a night in Asilah in a overpriced hotel we left Morocco for Spain two days earlier than planned.
Honestly we saw some amazing things in Morocco and met some very giving and helpful locals. But when your lied to, cheated and sick all the mint tea in the world cannot get the bad taste out. We will go back to Morocco someday, but we'll be moreprepared and know what to expect.
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Aaron
non-member comment
Wow! What an experience!