Four things


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June 2nd 2009
Published: June 2nd 2009
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As I prepare for my annual AP “reading” trip, I’ve been reflect on that question that students in every class I’ve taught have asked me: “what do Americans think of Russians?” It’s kind of a dumb question, and I never know quite how to answer it even though it ALWAYS gets asked. But I certainly had some preconceptions before I came here. Some of them were right on, like, Russians require stamps, forms, and documents. But other’s were way off, and are probably shared by too many people. So this is, I guess, some of the surprises, the things I’ve seen and experienced that went against the stereotype or were just plain unexpected.

1) Russians are not xenophobic. I guess I never really believed they were, but this gets a lot play in places it shouldn’t and by people who know better. Many Russians are, however, intensely interested in all things foreign. Foreign travel, foreign cars, foreign leaders, foreign teachers, the list goes on and on. This interest can manifest itself in xenophobia, but it is far from the default setting. Far more than Americans (and I think far more than most others) Russians study foreign languages. In my classes and those I’ve visited, I’ve met university students, professional actresses, businessmen of all sorts, housewives. They all talk about foreign trips they have taken or dream of taking. Everyone is an expert in geography. Maps and carpets cover the walls. And even the “xenophobes” can surprise. A student of mine is a vocal Russian nationalist and on several occasions has vowed (with complete sincerity) that he and “Brother Chavez” will fight the American-Anglo forces of imperialism. He also said that any NATO meddling in the Balkans and the Slavic brothers who live there should be met with Russian arms. Despite these fevered declarations, he and his buddies come religiously to my weekly American Corner conversation clubs and (again with complete sincerity) listen and ask questions. He also sings along to Louis Armstrong and Ella Fitzgerald records, which is kind of weird, but also kind of touching.

2) Russian businesspeople are rugged individuals. I guess the stereotype of the American businessman as a cowboy has been out of date for at least a century. The corporate CEO, despite Jack Welch’s can-do attitude -- is really just successful bureaucrat. The American corporate warriors have more in common with the Patty and Selma types at the DMV than they would care to admit. That hated 19th century robber baron Cornelius Vanderbilt did it his own way, building an empire using his hands, not a few guns, and an overabundance of cunning and balls. He had a grand adventure damning the American public and tossing aside law and morality. The timid American businessperson of today keeps his hands clean and is better liked for it, though judging by that Cheese moving book, a real Nancy. In America, following childhood comes a period of half-childhood known as the university, then comes the inevitable move toward the security of the big business (or big university or big government), the water cooler, the fluorescent light, and (hopefully) an ergonomically correct desk. Independence? Well, they follow the rules and keep their nose to the grindstone. Not in Russia. To a degree that continually surprises me, my students want or actually possess, their own businesses. Sveta floored one of her classes when she told them she never wanted to own and run a business. Why not, they demanded to know. My Russian students are totally uninterested in a plum job at the blue chip company, university tenure, or even a high position within the state. They seek the chaotic (sometimes dangerously so) high-risk/high-reward competition and struggle of the world out there. As a teenager Sveta’s cousin, lacking money, connections and even a secondary school education, went to the Perm central market and set himself up dealing in engine parts. The central market is a large outdoor bazaar, both noisy and sweaty. There are criminals. There are gypsies. You can buy every kind of software, hardware, or cookware. Where so many fail, Ruslan succeeded. He has money, cars, chutzpah and the rest of it. A student of mine is in the hookah business (are you reading this Peter?), while another provides accounting services for other small business owners. These Perm State University students are the children of the first generation of Russian entrepreneurs, who fought (some literally) their way to the top of a fiercely competitive and tremendously rewarding market. The kids now want some of that action. Yes, there is corruption, graft, and connections matter. A lot. But they did in Carnegie’s time too. So ignore that stuff you here about crony capitalism and what not. It’s everywhere, but if you want something resembling a theoretical market (and I’m not sure I do) you can find in Perm with the gypsies.

3) Russian salads are delicious. One doesn’t often think of Russians as lovers of rabbit food. They devour meat, often raw, like those Vampires who ate “steak Tartar” in that Timewarp II. But their salads make the lettuce-based American versions seem like weak tea by comparison. Nothing beats Shouba, which is on every table here. Shouba’s got herring, about a quart of mayo, a lot of beets, and, I guess, some onions. I cannot stop eating it. The vegetables are always fresh, what with all the dacha work, and the salads hearty. Why do people continue to eat lettuce? It has zero taste. Crunchy water with some oil - that’s the American salad.

4) Russians are not slovenly. I don’t know where this one came from. I guess during much of the Soviet era, one couldn’t get nice things. Or maybe it was Peter I who started it by making a big fuss about beards and long sleeves. I don’t know, but it is (and I suppose was) totally off base. Russians, especially Russian women, are obsessed with public presentation. The ensemble, the thousands (millions?) of slaughtered animals and their pelts worn in fantastic new ways. Some men are, but they aren’t as consistent about the fastidiousness as the women. The shoes, however, for both sexes are almost always spotless and shiny, which is really something worth talking about if you’ve ever seen a Perm street or sidewalk in spring or fall.

A list with ten things sure takes a long time! Anyways, I’m looking forward to my American week, DBQ and all. Like Jonathan sez,
“Cause I'm in love with the U.S.A. now
I'm in love with the modern world now
Put down your cigarette
And drop out of ПГУ” - or something like that



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21st June 2009

Salad
Some cucumbers with bitter taste - this is what American salad might be

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