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Published: April 8th 2009
Six days into my visit to Saudi and I am beginning to settle into my assigned tasks and get a little more comfortable in moving around this beautiful country.
The first three days were a little frustrating due to a complete lack of connectivity to the internet and lack of cell phone signal strength. When I got my first call from Susan, it
was as if I had been rescued from a deserted island.
The area around the Dhahran compound I am staying in is surprisingly quiet. No stereo’s blaring, boom boxes from SUV’s, and even the conversations in public are soft and reserved. For most of the morning, you hear hundreds of doves cooing at one another.
It reminded me of the Benedictine monastery in Cullman Alabama. Daily activity is interrupted five times for prayer, which also reminded me of the monastic prayer/work rhythm (matins,lauds,noon,vespers,compline) - yet in Saudi this tradition involves a large section of the population.
Friday morning, the Islamic Sabbath- all three mosques in my compound neighborhood are broadcasting over loudspeakers the chanting prayer of Islam. I felt a little jealous as I watched the throngs pour into the Mosque for
worship—but then it reminded me that it was my Lenten Friday. No Middle East meat loaf today. It would be olive salad.
My own faith seems to be strengthening as I observe the widespread devotion and commitment the Saudi's display around their own faith tradition.
I saw a man make the sign of the cross at breakfast today in the midst of robed Muslim men and women. I myself was a little reticent to do so-- maybe he has witnessed to me more than to the Islamic men and women who saw him.
I caught myself laughing in my usual way in the dining hall with a co-worker, and realized I must seem boisterous. I would later learn that in less public forums, my Saudi friends could have a rollicking good time, for hours.
I have enjoyed watching the Saudi parents as they interact with their children at the dining hall and commissary. Tender and gentle, the mother and father are seem to dote upon their children and still maintain a level for firm control.
Ismail Al Ismail, manager of the specific project I have been assigned to invited Don and me to
Boys night out in Dammam
Ismail, Mohammad, Don, Me, and Guraidhahis home for dinner tonight, along with co-workers Mohammad and Guraidha Al Yami.
After treating Don and me to the delicacy of sheep testacies at a local restaurant the night before, I was a little wary—but opportunities like this do not come often, so here we go!
It was a fascinating evening, beginning with a shedding of the shoes, a welcome kiss on each cheek, and meeting Ismail’s’ three sons. Ismail’s wife and two daughters would not be seen the entire evening, according to the traditional Saudi custom.
We began with Ismail’s’ sons pouring tea into gold-gilded cut glass tea cups, never allowing the tea to get less than half-full.
Fresh dates and nuts were passed around as casual banter flowed—Ismail being a master story teller told one hilarious story after another in the tradition of the desert boduine.
When it was time, Ismail invited us into dining room, where two great platters of whole roasted lamb on rice were surrounded by plates and plates of sauces, humus spread, pickled grape leaves, watermelons, sautéed onions, and roasted garlic. THis is called "Kapsa"--Where meat, rice, and vegatables are all cooked together and served on
Reclining at Hassbah
Hassbah is a specific Saudi Recepe for a meat dish, but also the general term for a traditional, formal Saudi meal prepared for special guests - in Saudi-every visitor is a special guest. a large platter on the floor.
Sitting cross legged on the floor, being very careful not to show the soles of my feet (considered very bad manners-insulting in fact), and following the lead of my host, I began eating with the fingers of my right hand.
Balling up rice in a tight ball, shoving it in with my thumb, I felt two years old again. And when you saw the mess of rice and other debris at my place, it looked like a two year old had just eaten.
I sipped my drink and talked with Ismail as the other guests got up to leave. He then told a story of how he had an American guest who talked all through the meal, and when everyone was done he had barely touched his meal.
In Saudi, the host cannot leave until the last guest has stopped eating.
That was Ismail’s way of poking me and saying “are you done yet”. When the meal is over, the meal is over.
We adjourned to the other room, where more tea was poured. While chatting, his sons brought out the traditional Saudi incense for each of us
to gently wave over our face.
Then Ismail brought out perfumed oil that he poured on our hands.
This being the Monday after Palm Sunday, I was reminded of the woman pouring expensive ointment on Jesus just before his passion.
Finishing our tea, it was time to go, and we said our goodbyes in the Saudi way, very long and very warm. I was touched deeply from the first moment to the last by this very powerful demonstration of Saudi hospitality.
I hope I have learned a little about caring for guests. I did find myself wishing to express my appreciation to Ismail’s wife and daughters as well—but that was not a part of this very traditional night.
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Chad Nott
non-member comment
is that what you kids are calling it these days?
incense?