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Published: February 19th 2009
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in the desert
Jitu took this of me at a desert camp Home at the edge of the desert I am back at the Fifu Rest House in Jaisalmer, sitting in the fourth floor terrace restraurant, feeling the soft desert breeze and enjoyign the peaceful ambience. I feel I have found another perfect spot in India, along with Aurovalley Ashram, Shinshiva Resort in Kerala and the terrace of Ajay's house in Delhi.
When I find a perfect place like this in India, I never want to leave. I feel very at home, calm and relaxed, and very open. Jaisalmer is now a magical word to me. My heart opened up here.
There is something about the ancient narrow winding lanes of the fort and the old city, the golden yellow sandstone colour used to build the fort and the buildings, the many, many gorgeous, intricately carved havelis, the wide open desert surrounding this small town of 45,000 -- and of course the people. They are warm, kind, helpful and gentle, even when they are trying to entice you into their shop or rickshaw.
Last night the Fifu Rest House, at the edge of town, was full, and I stayed at their smaller place in the fort, Monsoon Palace. It
is a small lovely haveli located deep in the heart of the fort, down winding lanes that get narrower and narrower. Sometimes, when a cow is standing in your way, it is hard to get around it as there is so little room. The farther you go into the fort, the more you seem to leave the modern world behind. The women are all dressesd in very colourful traditional clothes, there are cows everywhere, the buildings are all very old, the lanes are paved with cobblestones -- it is very evocative and romantic (though the smell of the cow patties is sometimes overwhelming).
Monsoon Palace only has two rooms, one on top of aother, and a small, charming terrace on the roof. It is run by Fifu, but under the care of a very sweet young man, named Babu, who is from a Rajasthani village. The view from the terrace is also spectacular. I am used to looking at the fort, but from there I was in the fort looking out over the town and the desert. Many people still live in the fort, which is also crammed with guest houses, haveli's, shops, restaurants and a beautiful 16th century
boy at the temple
Everywhere in India you see people with open faces, brown eyes and gorgeous smiles Jain temple. I went this morning, but unfortunately didn't bring my camera. There seem to be a lot of Jain temples aroound, but not a lot of Jains. In Jaisalmer, the population is largely Hindu, and in the surrounding countryside, it is largely Muslim. My hosts / friends Jitu and Fifu are Brahmin. (These are their nicknames -- their real names are Om and Jitendra). They don't smoke, drink or eat meat, so it is little bit like being at an ashram for me here -- which is great. (Brahmins also don't eat eggs or use onion or garlic in their cooking, which is also true of ashram food.)
I have really lost track of time here. I don't know what day it is, or date. I feel I have fallen in step with the slower pace of Jaisalmer, and I can sense all the old traditions of the place. Rajasthan has a very colourful history, and I want to learn more about this culture. I never expected to connect so deeply with this state. It can be very touristy. I feel lucky to have transcended the superficial tourist experience by becoming friends with Fifu and Jitu.
Yesterday,
pillar at Jain temple
There are more than 1,000 pillars at this magnificent temple, each one unique a researcher from the Best Places to Stay in India guidebook was visiting the rest house -- a beautiful woman from Scotland who is currently living in Mumbai -- and I helped Jitu show her around the city. Afterwards, we came back to the rest house and ate a dinner cooked for us by Jitu's Mom. The vegetarian food was richly spiced and really delicious. We had rice, roti, stuffed eggplant, okra and dal.
I feel I have become one of the family here, and it is a great honour. And I am not the only one. It is not only the owners and staff of Fifu Rest House who are special, it is also the other guests. There is a group of about 20 Swiss students here, with their teachers, and they are volunteering in one of the local villages each day. There is also a French family here, visiting their relative, a young woman who fell in love with a local tribesman. He was already married with four children, but their bond was so deep and strong, she ended up staying here. She lives with their very cute two-year old son in the desert, about 35 kilometres
from Jaislamer. Of course, the society does not condone this relationship, and she has had a hard time, but though India is a tradtional society it is yet remarkably tolerant. India has to accommodate one billion people and amond boggling number of languages, cultures and religions. India has to be tolerant. Of course, tolerance is also built into the Hindu philosophy. That's why India is so pluralistic. This society doesn;t have the bagge of a puritanical past either. I saw very erotic carvings from the Kama Sutra on the outer face of the Jain temple this morning.
So, I guess I am saying that I am so glad I cancelled the rest of my trip, followed my heart, and came back to Jaisalmer and the Fifu Rest House. The drive was very long, with only a stop at the incredible Jain Temple in Ranakpur, and a qucik pit stop for a late lunch outside of Jodhpur. I think I was in the car 11 hours. Actually, two cars. I changed drivers (and cars) in Jodhpur.
The road from Jodhpur to Jaisalmer was, very surprisingly, the best road I have been on in India. It was like a Canadian
road. At first I couldn't understand why such a great road would be built in such an out of the way place to service such a small town. Then, after several very long army convoys passed us, I figured it out. We were approached the Pakistan border and the army is heavily represented here. India has an enormous army, and several fractious borders to patrol, but of course the Paakistani border is the major hot spot, especially in the wake of the Mumbai attacks.
Tonight there is no room for me at either Fifu, Monsoon Palace or the attached Jasmin Haveli (their small empire, as Jitu says), so I am going to the desert to stay overnight. I regret not staying overnight last time, and generous, magical India has given me a second chance. And, lucky me, Jitu is cooking us dinner again. The only problem with all of this perfection is that leaving it is going ot be very painful....
In the desert It's official. I am in love with the desert. My new friends Joyelle and Deanna and I stayed last night in the desert, in the sand dunes, about 40 kilometres from Jaisalmer. We
my yoga mat
I did my yoga practise on the roof of the Fifu Guest House bedded down after another amazing Jitu-cooked dinner and watched the stars appear ... and appear ... I have never seen so many. We were very lucky. It was a clear night, and warm, and there was no moon until the crescent moon rose about halfway throught the night. I lay awake looking up at the silver-studded black sky, and I couldn't sleep. My heart felt so completely open. I felt the powerful energy of the night sky as the stars and my heart beat together. The only sound was the tinkling bells hung from the camels' reigns -- and the very odd sounds the camels make as they regurgitate water. Deanna and Joyelle and I laughed out loud several times listening to them.
In the middle of the night, I walked out onto the sand dunes to try and absorb the desert at night. I felt overwhelmed by the beauty. As the sun rose, I again walked out and climbed to the top of a high sand dune and watched the horizon as the morning light began to glow. I feel, again, so blessed by India to be given an oppoprtunity to experience her magic and mystery, and again
desert view at dawn
taken from my window to have my childhood dreams realized. India is indeed very generous.
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Lisa
non-member comment
Your wonderful India writings
Mariellen, I am writing to say how much I'm enjoying your India blogs. Your love for the country sure comes through, and I can almost hear/smell/see what you're describing. I am glad to see your photos illustrating the stories. What a terrific combination. Lisa