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Published: January 24th 2006
After a great day around Mumbai - Crawford Market delights, the immense, opulent Taj Hotel we left the next day on the early morning train. It's not a pretty sight from the train - the poverty, the dirt and decaying buildings. We have great hopes for India with its population and economy expanding so rapidly...I'm sure it can't come too soon for many of the people.
The Konkan Railroad train to Goa is only some 20 years old. It was built partly as a military defensive manoeuvre as there was no swift rail link along this rugged coast. There are dozens of tunnels - some longer than two kilometres. The trip is a treat as the train winds through mountains, beside lakes, rice paddies, forests and high, dry fields.
The sun was setting as we arrived in Goa after the 12 hour ride. It is so green. Goa was a Portugese colony until it became part of India in 1962. Discovered by Vasco deGama, the people are mostly Christian with a delightful Indian flavour. Goa is on the west coast on India facing the Arabian Sea and boasts some of the worlds finest beaches - mile after mile of white sand and palm trees cooled by warm winds that blew here all the way from Africa.
I was here 33 years ago with my friends Pierre Viger and Chris Nation. We went to Colva Beach and walked along the shore for an hour at which point we made a camp of bamboo poles and palm branches. We camped there a month and seldom saw a soul except for the fishermen who put out in their wooden boats out at night and returned in the morning. I remember seeing them come in with a hammerhead shark some 3 metres long.
Darla & I rented bikes and pedaled up the beach from Benaulim to find the spot where we camped those light years ago. We found it and it has changed as Goa has changed. Goa has been 'discovered' by the West looking for a cheap spot to get sun and sand while avoiding the winter. Resorts, hotels, beach shacks line the coast. It's hard to blame the Goans - they are eager for business; and it's hard to blame the westerners - what's wrong with a piece of sun and sand? However, the flavour of Goa is diluted - at least along the coast. We know we are not in the 'real' India. Even the food here is what they call 'Multi-Cuisine' which means you could get, say, an eggroll or roast beef & gravy or shark vindalloo. We have been opting for the Indian vegetarian food for the most part and are looking forward to getting back to the spicy east.
At night, all we hear are crickets and the sound of waves thundering on the shore. Our rather spartan room in a little shoreside hotel is quite simple but lovely: two single beds jammed together; two sheets and a pillow each; an overhead light and a ceiling fan with two speeds; a bathroom with a toilet and a shower with one tap - even the cold water is warm. We have a little terrace with two chairs where we drink tea in the morning. The terrace faces a beautiful garden of exotic plants and regal palm trees The room is very clean. For this we pay 750 rupees or about C$20. Food costs us about the same - including beer. We tried the Indian red wine one night and found it delicious but a bit beyond our budget.
Our first night in Goa was spent in a Portugese style pension in the village as our inn was full. Surrounded by lovely gardens and shaded by palms, pines and deciduous trees, the interior and exterior floors were of a light green Rajastan marble in sheets some one and one half inches thick by one metre by two metres.
We have been eating tandoori fish, curries and different kinds of lovely deep-fried pakoras. The fruit is great - especially the pineapple and tangerines. The kitchen here makes a delicious spicy sweet and sour soup. We are not very hungry in this heat and usually eat only twice a day.
On Saturday we went into Margao, one of the main towns, where there is a covered market. We went by bus - which cost 5 rupees or about 14 cents. In the market there were dozens of narrow aisles and vendors selling vegetables, fruits, spices, silks, cottons - and just about everything else. We didn't buy much - some fruit, a towel, etc - but wandered around soaking it all in.
Today we hired a taxi for 6 hours (1000 rupees or C$35) to drive us through the countryside along the coast. We saw some beautiful parts of Goa including a farming area irrigated by remarkable aqueducts. Bullocks plowing the paddies and many women bent over planting rice. We also saw more of the 'beach sprawl' at Agonda Beach and Palolem. This is more of a backpacker scene but it was thick with stores, hawkers, resorts, huts, taxiis and simply way too busy. We really are in the nicest area and will probably stay another five days before heading off down to Kerala.
Along the beach there are many women traders that insist that you buy their saris, saroongs, t-shirts or pineapples. I (Darla's writing) enjoy the whole ritual of bargaining for the best price. The trader starts off with a very high price, I offer a price much lower than her price - she lowers her price and I increase the price I am willing to pay. If I really want the item, we usually come to an agreed upon price. The traders are all very persistant. When you don't want to buy you have to just smile and move on. It is hard to just look and browse. I try to buy from the same trader on the beach who is a beautiful 13 year old girl who works in Goa for the 5 month season. Her parents live in neighbouring Kenataka. Many Indian children do not go to school. They work very hard for very little money.
We are so pleased with all the messages we have received: Robin, Robert, Randy, Pat, Deirdre, Delia, Charlie K & Loop. Thank you so much. We'll try to get individual messages off in the future. Sarah, I lost your home email. Please send it again. Love to all!!
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Robert
non-member comment
Keep writing
Dear Cousins It is such fun to follow you like this - please keep writing. The Tories have a minority Govt and I am in Chicago Love Rob