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Published: February 7th 2009
After our flights were cancelled last weekend, the weather is better, and we are in Prague for the weekend. It is beautiful this time of year, since the snow has left accents of white on the statues and roof lines. With the winter weather comes the fact that there are fewer tourists, so crowds weren't an issue. Although the cold was! We are still wimps when it comes to freezing temperatures. Meaning, we did spend more time in cafes, warming up over bowls of steaming soup. That could be considered a cultural experience, the cafe culture.
The picturesque Charles bridge, was covered up in scaffolding, and a little dissappointing. We still managed to rub the bronze plaques at the statue St. John of Nepomuk. Tradition has it that he was thrown in the river for not divulging secrets of the queen. Historians say the king had him done away with because he invited an enemy bishop to the city. Just like the history of eastern Europe, the stories of legends are confusing. But for what ever reason, tourists must touch the statue, for good luck, and to ensure their return to Prague!
Once over the Vltava River we wandered
stealing a kiss
in Praha's Mala Strana, Little Quarteraround looking for the Lennon Wall. No, not Lenin, but John Lennon. When he was murdered in 1980, graffiti appeared on this wall as a tribute to him and his ideas of freedom. Day after day it was painted over by the police, and each night, the sentiments reappeared.
This wall was becoming a symbol for Czech rebellion against the control of the state. Prior to the fall of communism in 1989, when we were raising kids and worrying about mortgages, folk singers performing songs such as Lennon's, were risking jail time. In Prague, they could be arrested for "subversive activities against the state". Freedom of speech, we sometimes take it for granted. Now, the wall has evolved from Lennon's shrine - to anti communist sentiments of the Soviet era - into todays messages of universal peace and love. All old hippies gotta love it. Only a couple other people were here, just a few families pushing strollers. Again we were cold, so the tiny cafe named John&George was ours alone.
Josefov, is Prague's Jewish Quarter, named for the Austrian emporer, who gave Jews their civil rights in 1781. We spent the better part of the day visiting the
Astronomical Clock
the clock warned of vanity, greed, death and invaders synagogues that now make up the Jewish Museum in Prague. At the end of the century, parts of the old Jewish quarter were torn down because it had become a health hazard. Leaders of the community founded a museum to house the artifacts from several of the demolished synagogues. This is where Hitler got the idea to create a Jewish museum. The Nazis brought articles stolen from the European Jews, and stock piled them here. Ironically, the museum Hitler intended to create, he would have called it "Museum of an Extinct Race", is now the Jewish Museum in Prague. It includes four old synagogues and the Ceremonial Hall, and holds an extensive collection of textiles, art, and silver. My favorite site was the cemetery and its layers of graves. Centuries of burying new graves on top of the old graves have left the landscape a jumbled pile.
Despite only being here a short time, Keith sniffs out a bagel place, and we eat here twice! For a good ole' southern boy, he does miss his bagels. I thought biscuits were what he would miss. Food is not what we came here for, so more of what we did travel
for... The Astronomical clock is another tradition. It was right by our hotel so we did catch it's quick production. Across square from the clock is the museum of Alfons Mucha. A treat to see his work, even if you don't know his name, his art nouveau women are famous.
Black Light Theater is a different cultural experience, that can be enjoyed here. They have a quirky sense of humor that the whole international audience, could understand.
Our guide for the trip out to Kutna Hora was full of information. Over coffees we learned about the sutble issues between countries, that still put family ties to the test. Her own parents are a "mixed" marraige, Slovak and Czech, so the dinner convesation at her gatherings can get heated! She told us of the political satire that eastern Europeans have honed over the decades. The European Union rotates presidents every six months. Currently, it is the Czech's turn. It is traditional for the current country to display a representative piece in the Justus building. The art work that was consigned to represent this appointment is a bit offensive to the other countries. "Entropa" is the title of his work. (Google
jumble of centuries
Jewish Quarter, Prague it) The insult to Poland is obvious, it is being depicted with monks raising the gay flag in the likeness of Iwo Jima. Even with all the controversy, I think it will be on display during his time as president.
I have put many photos in this entry, but please, have a look. Prague, reminds us a little of Paris. French architects were employed to design many of the buildings, we were told. Gothic St. Barbara's Church in Kutna Hora, where the Bone Church is, was another gorgeous site. She is the patron saint of the silver miners. This little town was once a wealthy town, sitting on top of the silver mines. And is on UNESCO's World Heritage list. Touring the mint, we were told that the old Czech currency "tollar", is where we get the name of our dollar.
In the royal hall, there is an small chapel. The focal point was a statue of Christ showing his wounds from his crucifixtion. The artist has shown him with dirty hands, like the silver miners would have had. He seemed vunerable, standing unclothed in his chapel alone, holding out his dirty hands for us to see.
The
weekend ended much too soon. Especially as we are aware, that our time here is growing short.
And yes, we agree with the graffiti artist on the Lennon Wall, Praha is very nice.
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Chris and Nikki
Chris
Great picture!