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Published: January 29th 2009
We left Chang Mai the morning after we got back from our Hilltribe Trek to make our final trip in Thailand as our visas were about to expire (and we didn't want to get fined with overstaying our welcome). The laid back lifestyle of Laos was calling! We crossed the Mekong River into Laos (the 'S' is silent) and arrived to the sleepy town of Houay Xay (pronounced way sigh) which is the jumping off point for travels down the Mekong. With time to spare we decided to take the 2 day slow boat down the Mekong River to the World Heritage Town of Luang Prabang. 140 tourists and locals alike packed onto this boat which only had a capacity of 80 or so (in true Asian style), and we sat crammed into the most uncomfortable wooden benches (think two 2x4's on the bottom and two of the same put at 90 degree angles for the back rest) for 7 hours! Luckily there was a guy with a guitar and harmonnica and soon the boat broke out in song as we enjoyed the mountanous scenery along the Mekong. We stopped for the night in a small town of Pak Beng, and
thankfully we were warned that this was not your traditional Laos town or people, as we were offered drugs and the like as soon as we stepped off the boat. The next morning they had two boats for us to take the rest of the trip, although it wasn't any less full as the boat was packed with hundreds of 50kg rice bags! Luckily the seats were nicer which made the 8 hour ride more tolerable. We stopped at many local villages along the way to pick up/drop off people, and at each stop the local kids all ran to the boat trying to sell us snacks or scarves to keep us warm. One little girl even tried to sell us a dead rat that she was holding up by the tail! Only 200 Baht you say?!? We also acquired some chickens and pig in bamboo baskets along the ride. After 15 hours and two days spent on a boat we were thankful to arrive in Luang Prabang.
Luang Prabang ('lu-ong pra-bong') was listed in 1992 as a UNESCO World Heritage site and its situation between two rivers and archictural influences from the French and Chinese make it deserving
of the title. Cafes line the streets selling French baguettes and Lao coffee (mmm...) and the buildings are fashioned in a French colonial style. France actually colonized Laos in the 60's and brought with it archicture, cuisine, and the "S" on the end of the countries name to make it sound more French. Walking through the streets and sipping freshly brewed coffee we had to ask ourselves if we were really in Laos or a small city in France. Matt indulged on the freshly ground Laos coffee beans! Luang Prabang is also home to the best fruit shakes that I have had this far. The combination of fruit and coconut milk isn't the healthiest on menu but tastes fantastic!
Luang Prabang (LPB) is a beautiful city and while heavily influenced by the French it still maintains its traditional Laos culture which was noticable from the many markets in the back alley streets selling fresh fruits and vegetables, fish caught right from the Mekong, and freshly plucked chickens and birds (which we witnessed being done!)
We spent three days exploring this city and getting used to the laid back lifestyle and culture of Laos. A piece of advice: never
go to a restaurant hungry as speed is not something the Laos people wish to pride themselves on! We took a trip to see Kuang Si Waterfall which is about a half hour outside of the city and were not disappointed as this particular waterfall has around 30 different tiers which cascade over the limestone rocks and fall into turquoise-green pools, including one giant waterfall. Matt braved the frigid waters and jumped into one of the pristine pools. On another day we rented bicycles and ventured around town and further to some villages on the outskirts.
LPB also has some really cool restaurants and bars - our favourite was Lao Lao garden whihc was outdoors, multi-tired, and had 3 seperate campfires to keep warm by. Several restaurants also play movies each night which we enjoyed.
After 3 days we decided to move on so we enjoyed one last fruit shake, coffee and baguettes and headed north!
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Jon
non-member comment
WOW, that Kuang si waterfall is amazing, it is like the shots u always see of paradise or something like that. im crazy jealous of u guys, looks like ur having a blast and seeing all the right places.... i also love the pics from Vang vieng... just incredible