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Published: January 26th 2009
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Escape from LA proved to be a complex business of negotiating a confusing series of 6 lane super highways. When we did finally emerge on the road required, the drive was a good one. LA is surrounded by snow capped mountains and beyond that barren desert. Enroute we stopped at a clothing outlet and despite the exchange rate being rubbish we still managed to pick up a few bargains. It was night by the time we neared Vegas, it's bright neon lights glowing on the horizon.
We drew closer to the city and took our first drive down 'The Strip', which was an unforgettable experience. Vegas is at its very best at night and the thick traffic gave us a chance to savour every bit before returning our rental car. For anyone who hasn't experienced it, the strip is a busy hive of activity combining seedy indulgence with wild extravagance and spectacularly designed casinos. The whole place is lit up dazzlingly at night, bombarding the iris with an array of epilepsy-inducing flashing neon colour. We were in Vegas primarily to celebrate the new year, an event that closes the entire Las Vegas Boulevard which erupts into a huge street party.
In researching the best location to spend the big day we spent our time systematically wandering around each of the casinos. It's hard to imagine this place when it was just a small desert town, before Don Siegle decided to build a themed casino here. It developed into a seedy town where gambling and prostitution were the favourite past-times of over-indulgent mobsters who had investments in casinos. The MGM Grand came along in the 90's and really legitimised the place, setting a new trend for the super 'hotel, resort, casino' with many now following that trend. Today the themed casinos are spectacularly done with their entire frontages elaborate displays for a particular area of the world and then matching that culture inside and out.
Each casino savours a different experience and whilst we cannot bore you with the details of every one, we'll describe some of our favourites. Driving down the strip northbound first takes us past the enormous pyramid of Luxor, a sleek black prism which shoots out a long beam of light at night. Further up on the corner is the elaborate New York New York, the frontage being a replica of the famous New York
Eiffel Tower - Las Vegas
Much smaller than the real thing...but still impressive. skyline comprising of the Empire State building, Brooklyn Bridge, the Crysler Building and the Statue of Liberty. Inside, the casino replicates the busy bustling cobble stone streets of early 20th century New York.
Opposite this is the MGM Grand, the highlight of which inside is the Lion sanctuary. These lions are from a nearby ranch and spend several hours a day on rotation inside the sanctuary. They are fantastic to watch, we became mesmerised several times by them and spent a long time watching their antics. There are handlers inside with the full grown Lions who trust and accept them as a member of the pride. As such they play with them and even lay down and have a nap with the lions! Watching the huge powerful Lions play around like a small domestic cat was enthralling.
The next few casinos are pristine luxury establishments and Vegas classics - from the sleek new Planet Hollywood to the decadent Monte Carlo and Bellagio. Every 15 minutes or so the Bellagio fountains are a spectacular affair. Before we arrived at Vegas we had only been familiar with the fountains from the 'Oceans' films and were expecting something quite small. However,
as we were discovering, this being Vegas they put on quite a show. The artificial lake outside the Bellagio is quite large and erupts into a symphony of enormous jets of water and light in time with some classic music. The water swings and dances to Sinatra and is one of the quintessential Vegas experiences. Viewing this spectacle at both day and night induces a very different experience.
Across from the Bellagio is one of our favourite casinos (and actual places to visit) - Paris. The outside recreates the city's famous landmarks such as the Arc de Triomph and the Eiffel Tower. Although each of these is not quite as large and impressive as the real thing, they are very well re-created. Curiously though, it costs more to go up the fake Eiffel Tower than it does the real thing. Inside, the ceiling is painted blue so that the sun never sets on Paris and leaves the casinos inhabitants gambling throughout the night. Also inside the famous Pont Neuf is recreated and fly's over the top of the casino, which is a nice touch.
Next up we pass Caesar's and stop suddenly at the Venetian, gawping at its
grandeur. Again, no expense has been spared in the expansive exterior which is wonderfully decorative. Inside and out this casino recreates Venice and the Grand Canal as well as the wonderfully built Campanile di San Marco soaring above a fake canal where gondola's ferry passengers in and out of the building. Adding to the mood, the gondola pilots sing romantically infused opera to embarrassed passengers as they make their way inside.
We next pass the fabulously sleek dark curves of the new Wynn and Encore before reaching the last major casino on the strip, the Stratosphere. The base of this large tower houses the casino and a speedy elevator whisks passengers 866 feet above the strip. The views are spectacular, with the large buildings of the strip towering above the smaller commercial and residential outlets around. The city is much bigger than either of us expected with the residential sprawl stretching for miles towards the surrounding mountains. Also on top of the Stratosphere are an array of blood-curdling thrill rides. These rides allow you the option of being shot up, off and around the top of the building, much to the delight of the people watching on the observation
deck below.
For the New Years Eve event we decided to really shower ourselves with unknown luxury by dining out in more style than we are used to and watching a show in New York New York. We ate at a fabulous Brazilian Steakhouse called Pampas. We really loaded up at the salad bar, only to find that servers come round at very regular intervals offering amazingly tender and delicious meats straight off the spit. Each one was incredible and had us both pulling faces and groaning with pleasure at each mouthful. There was an array of pork, parmesan beef, roast beef, chicken, lamb - all cooked and marinated in different ways. The best was easily the parmesan beef which was so incredibly tender and tasty. On top of that it was all you can eat - so we really did.
Feeling suitably obese we waddled our fat bellies over to New York New York where we had booked seats to watch one of the popular Cirque du Solei productions called Zumanity. This production is billed as the 'sensual side of Cirque du Solei' and was indeed very spectacular to watch. The sensual theme worked well and was
wonderfully acrobatic and unexpectedly comic. Although the funniest part was undoubtedly the midget swinging above our heads on a rope. For a small man - he had very strong arms! Some of the stunts were quite unbelievable and demonstrated the poise, balance and dexterity of the performers.
The evening culminated in us joining the huge crowd that was crammed around the central strip for the countdown, enuring that 2009 erupted with an enormous and spectacular cheer. One of the final highlights of the evening being that one of the policemen let me jump on his bike (which was quite difficult for my small legs to straddle!) whilst he showed me all the buttons and sirens which was all very cool.
We had a final couple of days in Vegas before moving on again in which we re-enjoyed some of the best bits the strip has to offer and wandering through the casinos watching and enjoying the electric atmosphere of people winning and losing and the constant chirping and ringing of the slot machines.
Vegas is a difficult place to be on a budget, but it has definitely ensured that we want to return to this adult playground
as soon as possible. It really is a wonderfully unique place that absolutely has to be experienced. It is still a seedy place where Mexicans thrust call-girl cards in the palms of unwitting passers-by, god-squadders preach and shout at sinful gamblers and small tacky outlets exist next to gleaming peerless casinos. But it is this buzz and contrast that makes it so infectious and ensures that its visitors are always suitably wowed by its elaborate decadence each and every time.
Viva Las Vegas, we'll see you soon!
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Mum Dad and boys
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Lost in Las Vegas?
Unsure about this even after your fantastic blog and reading it twice. I suspect it is one of those places that needs to be seen! I would love to see the lions and I would not mind straddling the policeman's bike but the gambling - I could take it or leave it unless of course DC is there then I might enter the casinos. Glad you enjoyed the decadence of LAs Vegas. Some of the sights did sound fantastic. See you soon. xxx