Ko Phangan

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The ferry ride to Ko Phangan takes about two and a half hours, I consume a delicious broth called sup p̄hạk (vegetable soup) before departure. I arrive and find a room for the night. Tomorrow, I want to head to beaches in the north of the island. I don't have any intentions of going to a full moon party which Ko Phangan is known for. But there is a festival happening at Thong Sala near the pier. I sit amongst the large crowd gathered and watch the beauty contest that’s being projected onto large billboard-sized screens. The night is humid. I finish my meal and slowly head back to my bungalow. In the morning, I hire a scooter and head north to Haad Salad Beach.

There are signs everywhere advertising full-moon parties, half-moon parties and black-moon parties. For centuries, the full moon has signified various religious celebrations.

More info: http://www.buddhanet.net/festival.htm

Recently, the police have cracked down on the party scene here and in Ko Samui. Every year there are many deaths; tourists die from drowning, fights and motorbike accidents. There are also many cases of rape. Reports of a new drug made from a plant related to datura is said to have sent many a participant to the mental health ward.

I’d like to do a yoga class at a place called 'Pyramid Yoga’ at Haad Salad but I discover it’s uninhabited. I presume, due to it being low tourist season. This is disappointing, as I read on their website, that they have a 'sound temple'. It’s a strange-looking structure. Designed to enhance the sound of activities like chanting; it looks like a slightly misshapen hard-boiled egg with a door shaped like a vulva. But alas, it's closed.

On the second day, it starts to rain. Locals are building sand banks along the beach preparing for the monsoon. “Big rain coming!” they shout. Riding around the island on my hired scooter, I come across some elephants being used for taking tourists on tours in the jungle. Stopping for a closer look and to feed them some bananas, I stare deep into their eyes. They are chained to posts. I ride around the island all day. It feels great to ride around without a helmet; I feel like I'm in my very own biker movie.

At a roadside cafe, I meet some young guys from Myanmar who work at a hotel in Haad Salad, they invite me to sit and drink with them. Their teeth are red from chewing betel nut which has a stimulant effect similar to caffeine and tobacco and makes your mouth, lips and saliva turn red.

They see me looking at a guitar that's leaning against the table and ask "You can play?" I pick up the guitar and start playing some blues. Seeing the red gooey smiles of the guys as they laugh and clap along elevates my mood. "Good...good" they dribble. Arranging to meet them again the following day to have a jam session, I explain that I’m going to Myanmar next month and would like to learn some Burmese words. "Good...good". Their English isn't the best but they are genuinely friendly and have a different vibe than the Thai guys I've met. This may be due to how the Burmese are treated here in Thailand. I look forward to catching up with them again.

I ride back up to the empty 'Pyramid Yoga' complex and look for the 'sound temple’. I find it hidden away at the back of the property and I’m happy to see the entrance is open. Convincing myself that my enthusiasm is permission enough to enter, I sit inside for about an hour meditating. I also record myself chanting. There’s a soft electric feeling in here; it’s a nice place to just be. I do hope the owners don't mind me being here; I’d love to build something like this one day. The energy is warm and welcoming and I feel refreshed when I leave.

At Haad Salad beach, I meet up with the Burmese guys. We hang out, play a few songs, laugh and share stories. It was a great energy exchange. They tell me that the rain is predicted to get worse, so I decide to leave the island in the morning. From the port town of Thongsala, I take one last ride, along the coast to Haad Rin Beach. The place where those infamous full moon parties are held. Along the way, I stop at an enormous pile of coconuts as smoke rises high into the cloudy sky. Women are removing the husks by hitting them against the top of star pickets in the ground.

Haad Rin is full of boutique shops and touts. After a walk along the beach, I return to Thongsala, and stay one more night at a guest house called "Why Not?”. Run by a friendly German guy and his Thai wife, who over dinner impart some of their local knowledge. In the morning, he takes me to buy my ferry ticket. “Perhaps the weather will be better there,” he says. As I board, it begins to rain. In about two months, Ko Phangan will be packed full of party-goers with tourists arriving from all over the world; visiting during its peak tourist season.

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Comments

[irishgirl]

Lovely to recieve your blog and travel vicarioulsy stay safe hugs x

[Mr Blakk]

Kobra is back
Nice read brutha, Im in central bolivia at the mo, just survived the Death Train and dodged a revolution, Im heading for the hills next, the andes to hopefully meet some mountain shamans...