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Published: August 10th 2008
It’s been a long week of incredible experiences: Kruger Park in South Africa from tues to sat then a quad bike tour over the other side of Ezulwini valley today.
I was at the building site on Monday morning on my own, pick-axing the compacted soil from a bank ready for pressing. I was joined by iona in the pm and we made a few bricks, but it’s such tough work for just 2. I’d fallen out with a member of the All Out staff first thing in the morning so that coloured my day a little. A huge crowd of new people had arrived by the time I got back to the lodge, so there were lots of hellos and new names to learn. The place was full to bursting, with a couple of people having to kip in the tv lounge. Took a malaria pill on an empty stomach and had quite severe nausea. Won’t be repeating that mistake. Missed several people leaving so, if you’re reading this, hello to Vicky and Emma and Amy and Charlotte; it was great to know you and I hope you’re all getting on ok back in blighty.
Left later than expected for Kruger as one guy had mis-booked his flight and was arriving a day late. Drove north through Swaziland for 2 hrs to get to the mananga border post, then another hour to get to the park. As we then made our way through the park towards the camp we started to see all kinds of animals. I think we saw giraffe, a lioness, elephants, baboons, vervet monkeys, crocs, kudu, impala, fish eagles, and hippos just on that first drive. Set up camp and went to bed early ready for the 5.30 start the next morning. A standard day started with heading out in a van with Bob or Roland as guides, just after the gates open at 6. We’d drive for a couple of hours then stop at a picnic spot for a breakfast cooked on a braai. Another few hours in the van then a stop for lunch. In the afternoon we’d drive till it dusk then head back to camp before the gates closed at 6. There were lots of memorable moments, so I’ll just go through a few, in no particular order.
On the first morning we saw a young elephant close-up, standing at the side of the road chewing on leaves. I found it quite an emotional experience, seeing the animals so close, in their natural habitat. I’ve seen elephants dozens of times in zoos and never had that kind of response.
On the first drive through the park we stopped at a small lake at dusk where many animals had congregated to drink. Hippos were wandering out of the bush at the far side, baboons were playing around, and what I thought were logs turned out to be enormous crocodiles.
On the last day at another watering hole we were very lucky to see 2 troops of elephants march up, one after the other, dispersing the masses of impala and disgruntled warthog.
Within a short drive we saw first a group of female lions, then a pair of male lions, fairly close. The male lions entertained everyone by rolling over on their backs with their paws in the air, like domestic cats. Incidentally, you learn to anticipate what animal is ahead by the number of vehicles that have pulled up by the side of the road. More than about 3 or 4 means a big cat.
Breakfast on the final day was at a picnic spot where there were ‘gangsta monkeys’ (bob’s term) - monkeys willing to go to great lengths to steal food. We laughed as a vervet monkey stole sugar from a family, but not when a large male baboon ran towards us, skirted round the edge of our group and grabbed a loaf of bread. Ten minutes previously Roland had been telling us that they were powerful enough to kill. There were bats roosting in the toilet block
The guided morning walk meant getting up at 4.45 but was a disappointment apart from the white rhinos and hyenas we saw on the drive to the walking spot. Hyenas seem to be willing to have a go at anything, as they checked out the rhinos and chased our truck down the road. As we got out, we saw them fan out around us and the rangers loaded their rifles, but they soon disappeared. One of the rangers filled me in about england’s terrible test series against South Africa. He also told us some stories of rangers having to shoot animals, and about the elephant culling.
Found out from Roland that his mum is good friends with Richard E Grant.
The birdlife is incredible. Just driving round we saw a brown snake eagle, several fish eagles, the brightly coloured roller bird, vultures and countless others. At a hide overlooking a lake, apart from frolicking hippos and a croc, there were storcks, herons and 3 types of kingfisher. It was then that I realised I really need to get a camera with a decent zoom lens.
Some of us had a brief sighting of a leopard on a rock near a river. Would have liked to have seen more of this beautiful animal.
After a quiet day in the van, I watched some elephants from the verandah behind the restaurant just outside the camp. A troop of females walked along the bank, crossed the river and headed off again along the other bank, all the time pursued by 2 battling males.
Will write about experiences quad-biking today another time. It was incredible and well- recommended to anyone coming to Swaziland. It’s NOT the swazi tours trip, which is just driving round a course. I’ll get the contact details together for the next blog. I’ve been typing for a while, it’s cold out here and I keep getting comments about the length of time I’ve been on here.
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Al & Penn
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Postcards from an Uncle....
the boys were really excited when your postcards arrived, Al thought he looked like the lion and the other one was representative of me? rhino? can't quite see it myself.....? P-all is quiet and good here, getting the house more in shape - took a jewelery course (silversmithing) and gave me incentive to clean out the workshop. have made a few rings and things.. A-oh well at least if she gives up on that, then the workshop is cleared out! anyway - as always its great to hear about what you are up to, sounds a bit more exciting than here, the only wild animals we see round here are Charlie and Sam. P- i start my new job at Lloyds (guy at works thought it was said ler-loyds ha ha) in 3 weeks and counting, first week of sept! hope all continues to go well, sounds like hard work...