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Published: July 17th 2008
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Just finished watching the marathon of an All Star Game on tape delay. When the Cubs get to the series (knock on Wood), MLB is gonna wish the NL won the game.
Also, an addendum on Siem Reap regarding some of the absurdities we have seen while driving around.
1. At least 100 dead roosters hanging by there necks from a strange contraption on the back of a moto cruising through the city center.
2. An unknown number of live piglets in several cages stacked on the back of a moto.
3. A rather large dead pig riding upside down on the back of a moto.
4. Ladders, long pipes, and all other manners of construction carried on, you guessed it, a moto.
5. Pickup trucks filled to the brim with people. Probably 15 in the bed with 3 or 4 more riding on the roof of the cab. On the highway.
Wish I was quick enough to have snapped pictures of these. It ensures that you don't forget you're not at home.
Traffic patterns can only be described as chaotic and while many of our braver compadres get around via rented motor
Choeung Ek
This is the tower that contains skulls of some of the victims. It greets you as you enter. bikes, neither of us have the courage to do so. As some of you may remember, my sole experience on a two wheel motorized vehicle ended rather abruptly with a low speed one vehicle crash (the cause was ruled to be operator error) followed by a lecture from an angry observer about the importance of helmet usage. They might let me do surgery one day, but even I know I'm not skilled enough to try to drive over here.
As for Phnom Penh, the capital of Cambodia. We arrived on the evening of the 11th after a bus ride from Siem Reap. Having not arranged for a place to stay, which I always mistakenly think will work out better than it usually does, we ended up at a real cheap place ($5 night total) that, like many guesthouses in this backpackers area, rests on stilts over Lake Boeung Kak. The restaurant is on a deck in the back makes for a great spot to watch the sun set, although we never made it back in time to do that. Walked down the alley for a bite to eat while working tirelessly to avoid the aggressive tuk tuk and
moto drivers. In every city it seems that one particular group of people attempting to solicit some business are more aggressive than the rest. In most of Thailand, it was the greeters at restaurants. In Hong Kong, the tailors and men selling watches. In Cambodia, the tuk tuk drivers. And in Vietnam, where we are as I'm writing this, it is most definitely the vendors at the markets. When you're already weary of pickpockets, it is hard to get used to the hands tugging at you from all directions. Understanding that this is how these people make a living, I try to remain patient.
Day 1
In the endless struggle between cheap and comfortable accommodation, cheap won out this time. As such we have no aircon and we wake up incredibly hot. Neither Christine or I feels well after breakfast but returning to the room is an unbearable option so we elect to tough it out. We hire a tuk tuk driver to take us to Choeung Ek where a monument has been erected in memory of the killing fields created by the Khmer Rouge regime in the 1970's. I'll leave the history lesson to more authoritative sources
like wikipedia. But briefly, the Khmer Rouge prevailed in 1975 after a civil war in Cambodia. Led by Pol Pot and others, they reigned over an autogenicide that led to the deaths of over 1 million people (perhaps upwards of 2 million). As the regime became more and more paranoid that it had been infiltrated, more and more people met with torture and death at places like Choeung Ek and our next stop, the prison known as S-21 (Tuol Sleng). Their (Khmer Rouge) time in power has been compared to that of the Hitler and the Nazis.
Upon arrival at Choeung Ek, a large column has been erected and filled with skulls of some of the victims, many of whom were obviously victims of blunt trauma. As you walk the grounds, the burial pits are still visible, as are remnants of the victims' clothing. Needless to say, it's a rather sobering experience. The prison at S-21 is no different. The activities here were well documented by the administrators so their unspeakable atrocities have been well preserved. Pictures of the victims taken upon their arrival at S21 are on display as are pictures of some of the dead. After being
interrogated and tortured at S-21, prisoners were transferred to Choeung Ek where they met their demise. Some prisoners were killed at the prison itself and it's these pictures that are on display. As you walk through the cells of this high school that was converted to a prison, you can't help but wonder how something like this could happen only 30 years ago. Then you feel overwhelmed as you realize that things like this still happen today.
Made it back home for more reflecting over dinner at a restaurant (Zorros) opened 4 months ago by a guy from North Carolina. He personally supervised our very American dinner of chicken fingers and tacos (close to American), even whipping up his Cambodian version of ranch for the chicken fingers.
Day 2
More sightseeing. More heat and humidity. Walked to Wat Phnom (the highest point in Phnom Penh at a wopping 30m or so) on the way to which a baby monkey became the new object of Christine's affections. Temporarily out of the picture, I sulked around, trying to get enough water in my mouth to replace that leaking out of me everywhere else. Onward to the National Museum, Royal
Cell at S-21
cells this large were used for important prisoners (i.e. those who the khmer rouge suspected would yield valuable information) Palace, and Silver Pagoda. A full day of sightseeing. We ended the day at the Russian Market where we kept our wallets in our pockets (for the most part). The market is known for knock off clothes and DVDs. We did pick up a few of the latter.
Day 3
Nothing to see here. Early alarm and packing before our 7:30 pickup for the bus to Ho Chi Minh City (formerly Saigon) in Vietnam. We were both excited b/c we upgraded to nicer accommodation that include aircon. I know what people mean now when they say it's not the heat but the humidity. Uneventful bus ride (thankfully) including an all too brief ferry ride. Our arrival in HCMC was marked by the appearance of massive numbers of motorbikes. As we later discovered, there are more motorbikes in HCMC than people in Australia (21 million) and increasing at a rate of approximately 3000 per day (at least according to one tour guide). After witnessing the sea of motos everywhere, I'm not going to argue. While I thought there were lots of motos everywhere we've been, the guide books make special note of the situation in Vietnam, going as far
as to give advice about crossing the street. There is no such thing as walk and don't walk signs. Just proceed slowly into the street, making eye contact with oncoming traffic. Trust them to steer around you as you calmly walk across the street. Do not run and do not stop. These are the cardinal rules. It gets the adrenaline pumping, but on the other hand, prevents you from ever having to wait for a walk sign.
Despite the traffic, or perhaps in part because of it, there is something energizing about this city. Tough to put a finger on it but Christine has had to put up my with excited babbling since our arrival. Cheap food is everywhere (lots of noodles and rice, some of my favorites), people are surprisingly friendly even though we aren't wearing Canadian flags on our sleeves, and beer is cheap and plentiful. Traffic watching is almost more fun than people watching. It's crazy but somehow it works.
Enough for me. Christine will take over with the rest. Only two weeks left.
Is anyone even still reading this?
Adam
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Cindy
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I AM
In answer to Adam's question ... I am still reading this AND looking forward to each new entry. It's been fun to follow your travels -- although I cannot say that I envy you w/the heat and humidity --I'm sweating reading it. Take care and look forward to hearing from Chrissy next! Love, A. Cindy