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Published: June 23rd 2008
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The 14 Pound Mango
610 roubles at 43 to the pound = 14 GBP. So, an update from your favourite Moscow Blogger. Had I published this on Saturday as originally intended I wouldn't be about to write about the scenes from that night after Russia's victory over Holland in Euro 2008. It produced some amazing scenes on Tverskaya Road and Red Square. The road was grid-locked with cars beeping their horns, passengers leaning out their windows with huge flags and women dancing half-naked in the middle of the street flashing cars as they inched past (some drivers will have seen some interesting patterns on their car bonnets yesterday!). The celebrations continued in Red Square until around 6am. Sounds strange to say, but last night was the first time I'd felt slightly threatened, but drunken celebrations can create that feeling.
A quick word on the football - what a tournament. I've seen a fair few football matches in my life but, and I'm sure many will agree, it's been a tournament of outstanding entertainment. The game on Saturday was the most enjoyable I think I've seen, and it's a rare for an english person to feel that 'victory' feeling at such a stage in an international tournament. I wasn't too bothered about who won pre-tournament,
Old Soviet Building
Not sure why but this building scares the life out of me. but the way the Russians are playing I wouldn't have any complaints seeing them walk away with the trophy.
So, overall things have picked up greatly since my last Blog. I've moved flats again and am now living with three other foreigners who are more than pleasant. Previously, I lived for a week in the school driver's spare flat and then with an old Russian guy who continually offered to give me massages. It can be a difficult task to find accommodation here, especially for 3 months, so you have to take what you get. Despite his strangeness the Russian guy was fairly interesting - he worked with gymnasts and other athletes, teaching them how to 'see' when wearing a blindfold.
I've been doing some delving into the money situation to try and understand more. As my last Blog suggested living a 'normal' life isn't too expensive - slightly cheaper than London prices I'd guess. However, it's when you go beyond the 'normal' life that prices increase, and they increase exponentially it seems. Anything at the top end of the scale can cost silly money. 4 and 5 star hotel can cost 1000 USD+ a night. Even 3
Sunset on Tverskaya
Heard it's the smog that produces these beautiful sunsets. star hotels outside the centre can set you back 200 USD+. Apparently normal businessmen can feel slightly put out when they are put up in a less than luxury hotel because their company can't afford them. Coffees and cocktails are really expensive but readily consumed, as are anything more than the bog standard restaurants. My favourite tale is of my flatmate who came back from a supermarket with a 14 pound mango - that's pounds sterling, not weight.
I was keen to find out why the prices are so expensive at the top end, which people are prepared to pay this and why. I've asked a few of my students 'So how about your pension? (I can't get away from my actuarial days it seems). Their blanks faces provide the answer to this question. It would be almost incomprehensible to most english people not to think about your retirement, but most Russians do not - quite worrying since the Government pensions is a mere 200 USD a month. This would seem fairly myopic at first sight, but their explanations are fairly understandable. The Russian Financial Crisis in 1998 led to many middle-class people losing their life savings when many
The GUM
Recently designed shopping centre just off Red Square. banks closed, and thus ceasing to be middle class. Despite the recent increases in the stock market people are still reluctant to invest or put their money in the bank. The effect is people spend their disposable income, which these days is increasingly large - in the major cities anyway. Hence, people are willing to pay these silly prices. My flatmate has a minigarch as a student (with 'only' a few hundred million they are not quite oligarchs) who pays her for lessons by peeling off one note from his large wad of 5000 rouble notes (c. 100GBP). There's a lot of money to be made here by foreigners with sense.
A few readers has asked me what going out in Moscow is like and have asked me to comment. It's fairly difficult to summarize but it's fair to say people are pretty open, verging on the hedonistic when it comes to going out. Some things have shocked me. A quick look at YouTube will fill you in pretty well, but to get the real picture you'll have to come and visit me!
My plans are changing all the time (what's new!), and the next move is under
WW II Planes
Victory Park has an outdoor exhibition of aircrafts, tanks and guns used during World War 2. scrutiny. I've been studying chinese in my spare time recently which may indicate the likely direction, but who knows?
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Claire
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sunset in Russia
the sunset of summer in Russia is so amazing. Are you working there now? PS: Hope Russian Team go further!