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Published: November 11th 2005
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We Traveled down through Laos for about 11 hours, over night, and arrived in Pakse at about 7am. The next bus took us to one of the islands of Si Phan Don and seemed a bargain until we realised we were in the middle of nowhere. One hour, one boat and 5 dollars later we arrived on Don Det - the small island we'd decided to stay on.
It must be said that Don Det is in our eyes a paradise unfound, but of course it would depend on your point of view. What we loved the most was its lack of - well - power I suppose. We mean this in the literal sense as the island hasn't got any 'mains' power. Most restaurants have small generators for when you're eating in the evening but this is offset by the fact that most restaurants don't stay open that long after the sun goes down anyway. Our days were spent swinging in the hammocks, reading, and watching the world go by - our evenings swinging in the hammocks and watching the world revolve by the light of an oil lamp.
While we were there we did pry ourselves out
Hammock Time
Don't make me move of the hammocks to visit one of the other islands, a waterfall and go on a sunset cruise, followed by fireworks (celebrating the end of the rains we were told). Although the fireworks were abandoned for the more attractive option of swinging in the hammocks - but this was because our position by the Mekong was perfect for watching the 'flaming' boats - part of the celebrations - drift past us.
We stayed at Mr. Tho's, a collection of 4 small huts and a small restaurant, perfectly placed in quiet spot right on the water. Mr. Tho himself was never seen however due to illness - diabetes - the place being run by Ming, his granddaughter, and her husband. The family is lovely (this includes Pom, Mr. Tho's sister - funny lady) and the restaurant food - all cooked by Ming - was very good. We did feel awkward ordering food though because Ming was VERY pregnant and due at that time. In fact by the time we left she was over due - which was a good thing because we wouldn’t have had the benefit of her cooking if she'd have dropped! But if anyone reading knows how
Mooo
Mark wasn't happy leaving the hammock the birth went we'd be very grateful for a message - thanks.
About the previously mentioned dolphins - we didn't see them. The reason for this was an apparent diplomatic issue (which probably means not enough money was changing hands under the table) because the dolphins lived mainly on the Cambodian side of the Mekong. It would have been possible to try and see them - with no guarantees - for a mere 25 US dollars a piece, but after weighing this up we decided it wasn't money well spent and opted to try further down the Mekong in Cambodia.
By the time we left Mr. Tho's we'd stayed 9 nights, after planning on only 3. The charge for the room was 1.5 US dollars per night (80 pence) - and the food was equally as cheap. The other guests who stayed (and a few came and went as we swung in the hammocks) were a pleasure to spend time with too. We both left with happy memories of this place and would go back any time, though electricity is planned soon which may change the feel of the place and bring more tourists.
One last point
- Doughnut man. It was one of the highlights of our day, about 4pm-ish, when fresh, hot, aromatic doughnuts were brought out to our hammocks. Doughnut man, who used to work in a bakery in Australia, has been living and making doughnuts on Don Det for some time now - in fact long enough for the locals to give him a Laotian name. We were lucky enough to be plied with these treats as soon as they came from the pan as he lived and worked from Mr. Tho's - we were spoilt. We have been asked by Doughnut man however that he not be named as he doesn't wish to become synonymous with this service, and has been threatened with exposure in the lonely planet, consequently making this labour of love an obligation. But - Doughnut man - you know who you are, and thank you!
So, to move on to Cambodia. Fortunately we found out (with the help of Doughnut man) that the border entry 10 miles away had started issuing visas 3 weeks previously. This meant the 'backtrack' we were about to make (back up to Pakse - into Thailand and down to a lower border
crossing with Cambodia that DID issue visas) could be avoided, a very good thing as we'd managed to avoid any backtracking throughout the whole trip!
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The baby is fine and is called Mr. Alek! Don't know why, and Ning is back in the kitchen, but Mr. Tho is no more, but the place is still nice. Oh yeh, Mr Doughnut has a work visa now, so I don't know if you can use his name, and has started making them in Mr Thos house, so they are not as warm, but still good.