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Published: December 15th 2004
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yum yum
this is a tibetan beer made from millet. the fun thing is that when you're done, all you need to do is add hot water to refill (up to 10 times)!! My adventures brought me to the chilly northern parts of India—in Darjeeling (West Bengal) and the eastern parts of Sikkim.
Darjeeling is known for its tea, and while driving up the hills we passed loads of tea plantations. There is definitely a strong English influence, as it was the summer retreat for the British officials in the early 19th century. It’s also known for its beautiful views of Mt. Khangchendzonga in Sikkim (8598 m), which is the third highest peak. The drive up was literally 4 hours of “bend after bend” but the view around one of those curves made it completely worth it. The base of the Mt. Khangchendzonga was almost the color of the sky so that the snow covered peaks looked like they were coming down from the heavens!!
Though Darjeeling is in West Bengal, walking around the city felt remarkably different than walking in the other parts of the state that I have visited. Since it is situated between Nepal, Tibet and Bhutan, the Indians from this region have more Mongolian features, and the majority of people speak Nepali rather than Bengali. I also started to see more Buddhist temples and gompas in place of
chaam dancing
this was at a monastery in the northeastern part of Sikkim, during a festival. the Muslim mosques. Plus—it is a hill station. And what they call “hills” are equivalent to our “mountains.” You know it’s pretty steep when porters are asking to carry your pack to your room!
There are tons of cool things to see in Darjeeling: the zoological park (I saw my first snow leopard), the Himalayan Mountain Institute (with the burial site of Tenzing Norgay - known for the first successful ascent on Everest), Shrubbery Nightingale Park (where I saw authentic Nepali dancing), sunrise at Tiger Hill, and my personal favorite (in honor of Matt’s surname) Lloyd Botanical Gardens!!
At 4 am tons of jeeps head for Tiger Hill for views of the mountains and sunrise. In a round about way (like getting lost while searching for the jeep stand) I bumped into six guys studying at a university in Kolkata from different parts of India who were spending a week in the mountains-- and were smart and reserved a jeep ahead of time. I joined them for the sunrise and met them in Sikkim the following night. I had a blast discussing “dating” and arranged marriages, the role of women, and the importance of castes in Indian society;our
prayer flags
prayer flags lined the monastaries, the houses, the roads...they were a beautiful sight in Sikkim! I tried to get Mt. Khangchendzonga in the background (i'm sure my photographer friend would have a thing or two to say--and change--about it:) ) talks really helped me appreciate their culture, and at the same time appreciate the freedoms I have in my country (that I take for granted). And I don’t just mean the obvious freedoms (of speech, right to vote…) I mean the “social” freedoms—like being able to have a beer with my friends without the connotation that I am a "reckless woman”!! We also exchanged popular dance moves from home!!
Getting to Sikkim was relatively straightforward once I got the permit required for foreigners, which meant a hike down to the bottom of a “hill” in Darjeeling to get a form, getting a signature from an office at the top of another “hill”, and returning the form to the first office. I actually saw a marvelous chunk of Darjeeling just getting the Sikkim permit!!
While standing in another line in Darjeeling, I met a South African photographer also heading to Sikkim preparing for an exhibit. Immediately after the 4 hour jeep ride to Gangtok (Sikkim) I bumped into him again—this time looking for somebody to join him to Yumthang Valley, a valley at 12,000 ft in the northeast of Sikkim on the Tibet/Indian mountain range; all visits to the
Tiger Hill sunrise in Darjeeling
4 am is an early hour to rise...but it was worth it. area must be arranged through a travel agent (yes—another permit required) and must have at least 2 people + guide+ driver. I thought-- SURE! WHY NOT!
We stayed in a lodge in Lachung where a local monastery celebrated Losoong (Sikkimese New Year) with chaam dancing. Yumthang was as picturesque as we heard it would be - and luckily we went on 3 of the sunniest and clearest days. The valley is surrounded with beautiful snow topped mountains and a river running through the middle. I also had some fantastic talks with Glenn, who is expecting his first child in a few months (yay!). I learned tons about Africa, learned how to play cricket (despite the unsuccessful attempts to learn from the village kids in Bengali), and even know the term “subject luminescent range” (I think that’s what it is, anyway)!
I am shedding the wool thermals, scarf, mittens, and layers, and will soon be sporting the bathers in Goa. I am meeting up with a friend from the Boston for Christmas and can’t wait to catch up with her!! I have yet to figure out New Year’s plans, but will keep you posted! Happy Holidays!!!
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anonymous
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Hope you enjoyed Darjeeling
thanks mattsy for the wonderful pics and was a pleasure to read ur journal. hope you enjoyed Darjeeling. cheers - Gurans