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Published: February 18th 2008
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Hi all,
(Baker are you getting replies to your email cos I had some sent back?) Thanks to those of you who took Wendy out.
I am writing this blog out of order again!! Stu is on the terminal next to me putting photos on, but he wants to do the Phnom Penh blog...so it will follow. Check back on old blogs in case we add any new photos.
After the emotional roller coaster that was Cambodia's capital city we decided to head for the temples, still a little disappointed that we didn't get to do the cross country slow train. We had heard from travellers before us that Siem Reap was definitely worth a visit, although we would find it very touristy. We took the $5 bus (locals + tourists) which took around 6 hours. It was quite comfortable, leg room was fine, the bus was a bit grubby with flowery 1960's curtains and a giant sticker over the window which prevented any view of the countryside along the way, although I heard it was fab. We were nursing slight hangovers and after the early start we were glad to stop half way at a local 'services'.
Hmmmm........... trying to get off the bus was a struggle because you were swarmed with beggars, and people selling stuff, great trays of deep fried spiders and duck necks thrust towards us 'you wanna buy something?' 'No I had my fill of spiders at breakfast thanks..........' There was a cafe with more flies than people, which had a kid pissing on the floor in the middle of it....a withered old man smoking the herb and spitting on the floor......next to the dried river fish.....a monkey chained to the wall....and several rabid looking dogs......Caroline street had never looked so good. I kinda lost my appetite. With trousers firmly tucked into my socks, I braved the local loos and was glad to be back on the bus!!!
Siem Reap felt like a haven. As soon as we parked we were surrounded with tuk tuk drivers touting for our business. But we already had a guesthouse booked. The 'Hello' for $10 a night. Spotless with a.c and tv..... bargain. Siem Reap was more touristy, but it was hardly the Costa del Sol I was expecting. There were a lot of posh hotels, one of them part of the Raffles chain. And shops
and small local restaurants, everything looked a whole lot cleaner and no body pestered us. We liked the vibe. The street food also looked appealing..... except the pig's intestines of course. There was still the trays of bugs, but it was not in your face so much. One of the delicacies I had particular difficulty in coming to terms with I first saw at a train station in Vietnam, but forgot to mention it earlier.. 'half hatched duck eggs'. These things are exactly that fertilised about to hatch little ducklings, the tops cracked open and eaten with a spoon; the lady smiled with a bit of wing and beak in her tooth - nice!!
Anyway, back to Cambodia, we spent the first day chilling around the city. Looking around the the markets. I bought a top from H+M for $1..... bargain.... I could go crazy but had to resist, think of the budget and the 11kg making its way home! We ate at a street stall, sharing our food bravely with about 200 flies. It was ok and cheap.
By dinner time however, we opted for a more restaurant looking place, the 'silk lounge' where they were doing a nightly
BBQ. Big cushions, mood lighting, nice music, while waiting for the food, a rat ran under Stu' chair. No problem.
Rat count so far: 5 ( 1 dead)
(After the disappointment of the lack of bats in Phnom Penh we were thrilled to see hundreds of large bats flying around the royal gardens at dusk...brill.!)
The food was great though. The next day we got up at 5am! Yes 5 am.... we hired a bikes for $1 a day ( the old fashioned ladies type, no gears, basket in the front ) and cycled to to the temples in time for sunrise. Yes it was fab, until hoards of Japenese tourists ( from the posh hotels) arrived by bus and filled the place. It was great being on the bikes though, hearing the sounds of the jungle, we saw squirrel type things, parrots, monkeys wild in the trees, as well as elephants carrying the tourists. Because of our early arrival and doing the circuit in an anticlockwise direction we managed to see most of the temples without another soul around. Fantastic. By luch time and >20km later we were tired and all templed out. I am glad
we only had a one day pass. You can get a 7 day...too much for us.
The mosquitos here remain a problem, but I am bathing in DEET each day ( they bite during the day also).
After returning the bikes we popped back to our favourite cafe and ordered an iced coffee, I was just about to take a sip when I saw a cockroach floating on the top! You think we would have learnt after the rat!! But after changing drink for a can of coke we ordered food, what the hell, we have to eat and they probably thought it was a bonus prize!! as they seemed unconcerned at our complaints.
Cockcroach count so far : live 3 dead hundreds....
Anyway tomorrow we are heading for Chang mai. Northern Thailand. It was not on our original itinery, but I have heard such good things about it and have never been despite going to Thailand x2 before ..... We want to visit the elephant sanctuary, do some white water rafting and a cooking course. We have a taxi to take us to the border ( the roads are so bad tht the bus takes
hours) leaving at 6 am....
Take care.....
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dunky
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I have many delectable rat recipes
The rat was/is bound to be cleaner than Stuey! I have a great rat/snake/cockroach recipe - remind me to cook it for you upon your return.