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Published: February 6th 2008
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So we left Delhi early on the 4th getting up at 5am to catch our first Indian train - the Bhopal Shatabdi Express to Agra. We lugged our backpacks to the station and surprisingly found our train with ease! The platforms were all busy and ours had a handful of western travellers on it too - off to the Taj no doubt! The train was on time and surprisingly civilised - dont believe the stereotypes (for now at least!). we had a nice airline style seat with plenty of leg room and fold down tables which came in handy when we were served tea, biscuits and then breakfast (altho steamed veg and these fried potato things would be more suitable as dinner!). All this and we weren't even in the nice class - just basic seat class. We rumbled through the north indian plains which were very green and a dense fog hung over even when the sun began to rise. We got the nice view of plenty of people taking a morning dump on the tracks... However this is not so surprising as the poverty was pretty striking, not too dissimilar to africa and this is a country with the
worlds third biggest economy (or something like that!).
Anyway we got to Agra Cannt station after 2 hours and ventured out, much quieter than Delhi altho still plenty of rickshaw drivers trying to lure us in. We decided to share a taxi with those same German girls who arrived at the airport with us and we're coincidently on the same train. The driver was friendly and was burning insense in the car. He offered us a good price for a day tour including lunch and waiting times which we took up so after checking into our hotel - with the most amazing Taj views from the roof yet still only 2.50 each a night and a much nicer room - we went off on our tour. First crossing the river and down the opposite bank to the nicknamed baby taj, another awesome peaceful spot with a nice (first with white marble - before the taj) tomb. Some women and children had perfected the art of looking natural and carrying things on their head but instantly after we took a picture they dropped the act and came over asking for picture money... dont think so somehow. We then headed further
back along the bank to see the Taj Mahal from the opposite side of the river - completely free! It was very rural and we walked down a small path to the river bank where a fence was being built but not yet finished. The river was mainly dried up so we walked all the way accross to the edge of the remaining water with the Taj towering over us and reflected in the river. A sight to behold although still very foggy! A little boy kept giving us helpful suggestions for pictures and taking them for us which was cool, he was hilarious and I tried to give him a little tip afterward but he refused it which was surprising altho later it made sense as he tried to sell us postcard books!
We headed back accross the river, stopping briefly to see Agra fort from the outside - impressive and similar to Red Fort in Delhi although our driver said the 300 rupees entry was not worth it if we planned on doing a day trip to the previous capital of the whole Mughal Empire (about an hour away) tommorow which we fancied doing! He did point
out the deep moat (first defence and croc infested - now dry) and the tower in which shah jahan (Tajs builder and emporer) was imprisoned by his son who took over. He died here and was taken by boat to the Taj for burial next to his wife. We then went back to the hotel and chilled for a bit - willing the sky to clear so we could see the Taj up close in best light (its a tenner to get in!). It didnt so we went to get dinner at a tiny quirky lil place called Joney's Place. Amazing food and such a friendly guy. The lassi was amazing and for desert we had the most delicious chocolate balls (haha). The whole meal for two set us back 2 pounds. I love India! (Although I did see a mouse dart along the floor! - still not ill touch wood). We saw one of the stray pubs get run over in the street and it ran off crying! Poor thing! (We saw it again today sleeping in the sun so it seems to have survived haha - with the crazy traffic and amount of stuff on the road im
surprised it doesnt happen more!).
The next day (today) I got up early and ran up to the roof hoping for good weather but no luck. As morning passed it did seem to be clearing so there was hope! We met our driver and the Germans again and headed for Fatepuh Sikri. The hour drive was pretty hectic with much to see, things are so colourful and the driving is crazy! You need 3 things to drive in India, Good brakes, Good Horn and Good Luck - the wise words of our nice driver Kamar. We had to stop at a level crossing and children came up to the window making gestures to the girls and asking for money, a bit intimidating as we couldnt go anywhere! Fatepur was amazing, a beautifully preserved city with amazing architecture as is becoming the norm! The weather was beautifully clear which was good to see! We saw elephant stables, hilarious. Inside the mosque many young men tried to give us tours but we werent falling for that one again! We went inside a little marble building where the holy men prayed, we had to cover heads and gave a small donation in
turn for a good luck prayer for friends and family (let me know how it works out!). We headed back to Agra happy that we made the trip and itching to see the Taj in good light! We said goodbye to Kamar and me and katie gave him a good tip as the Germans contribution was pretty suspect. After queuing and going through the most stringent security yet we got to enter the compound. It blew us away completely. Wow. Every picture we tried to take didn't do it any justice - you just have to see it yourself! It was quite busy and a struggle to get position for good pictures but got easier as the evening ebbed away. Stayed for hours watching sunset. At dusk it just took my breath away - GO SEE IT!
After it had got dark we left and went back to Joney's for dinner again - just as good! Now I sit here in the internet cafe after a real worry. A virus got onto my memory card and started deleting pictures! We've backed them all up onto CD so expect some post soon mum! After completely wiping the card I think
we've got it but I need to be more careful it seems! Tommorow we're up at 5 again to catch the 6.15 to Jaipur - a 5 hour train journey. We'll spend the afternoon breezing quickly thru some sites before getting another 4 hour train to Ajmer at 8pm - an important Muslim pilgrimage town and a good base for moving onto nearby Pushkar! Dont know how long till I'll next be able to get on as the more rural we get perhaps the more difficult it will be! x
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Callum Northcote
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callumn@hotmail.com
you guys are damn lucky! England wop tonight, agents swiss 2-1 if you were wondering. sounds like ur having a ball, even though luke is writing like a nonce x