Thailand. A new adventure. Day 9. January 2, 2008

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Wednesday. January 2. Chiang Rai.
Are we on the National Geographic Channel?
This morning we drive from Chiang Rai to visit three of the six tribes of hill people who populate the north. The people sell their wares from tiny stands on either side of dirt paths. We have been encouraged to buy treats for the children. I buy a dozen toothbrushes thinking they might need them after the snacks. I am not completely comfortable with paying 200 bahts (about $6) to visit the Karen tribe of "long necks," who wrap their necks in heavy brass tubing from the time they're about five. The coils push down on their shoulders creating the illusion that they've extended their necks. They add coils up until the age of thirty, and wear this 20-pound decoration night and day for the rest of their lives, removing it only to clean them periodically. The money goes to support the village, but I can't help wondering as I look at the little girls if we aren't encouraging the practice to continue. At what point does one move from observer to participant? Periodically we run into a staged event. Two small children sit next to the orange-dirt walkway singing "Happy Birthday," over and over, for instance. There is a constant parade of tourists; many of them buying the goods being marketed: scarves and other woven goods. I take this as a positive move toward self sufficiency. But I read later that many older people and children die each winter from the cold. In one tribe the older women have been chewing betel nuts, which act as a mild stimulant, that have turned their teeth and mouth black. It is difficult to look at.
Children run after us as we enter each market/village. I have saved my toothbrushes for the last stop because first, I am worried that wont' be viewed as a treat, and two, the last village has the smallest number of families--about 20. I hand out the toothbrushes as I walk, and most often the adults ask for one too. Good. Something they needed.
Safety first.
On our way back to the hotel, our bus drops some of us off at a restaurant called Cabbages and Condoms. The restaurant was started by an entrepreneur/philanthropist as a way of promoting and raising money for family planning in Thailand. The food is delicious and the condom posters are hilarious.
Shopping alone.
I catch a ride to the night market--a combination of a swap meet and a farmers' market. And explore the many booths by myself. We've been warned not to take too much with us to avoid pickpockets and razor thieves who are so adept at slitting open purses and pockets, victims don't notice till they try to buy something and don't have any money. It's crowded and lively. A perfect place to lose your money--hopefully by choice. My final stop is to watch a young woman--a teen, I think--cooking fried treats. Starting with a mound of batter about the size of my fist, she slaps it on the table top until it’s a very thin, 12-inch square then drops it into sizzling oil. She folds the edges in and turns it till its brown. She hands it off to another woman--Mom, I think--and she applies a scoop of pineapple filling and drips sweetened evaporated milk on it. She wraps it in paper and hands it to me. It's DELICIOUS! And it costs me about 25 cents. As I wait for the shuttle back to the hotel, I visit with two Americans who are touring the country--each on his own. There are tourists everywhere. Not hard to find company if you're alone, but want to speak English for awhile.

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Photos

Karen tribeswoman
The Karen women add coils to their necks from the age of 5 till the age of 30.

Night market in Chiang Rai
Young woman frying a pancake-type treat.

Comments

[Dot]

Traveling along w/you
`each day of your journey is wonderful and exciting -you seem to never get tired but that is what I remember about you -also amazing all the countries children are in need and you are there with a treat for them. The pictures are beautiful - you make us feel as we are on the trip with you.

[Diane]

Just Loving Your Trip
I don't what I love more, the stories you tell or the pictures you have included. The girl with the neck rings is just beautiful but when I read that it is 20 pounds and she had to start wearing when she was 5 --- well, just a great read and I enjoy your trip so much.