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Published: November 12th 2007
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Jenny: We flew to Puerto Maldonado the day after finishing the Inca Trail, a day to rest would have been a good idea, but the flights were cheaper this way. It was only 30 mins in the air, so before we knew it we were arriving at the tiny airport of Puerto Maldonado. We were met by someone from the tour company, and then had a bit of a waiting game, first at the airport, then at their offices and finally on the boat that was to take us to our lodge by the Madre de Dios river (this bit was really hot).
It was about 45 mins on a long thin boat with a motor to take us along the fast flowing muddy river to the Tambo Londge, our home for the next 2 nights. I was feeling pretty ill and was very relieved to finally get there. I spent the next 4 hours half asleep on the bed, and very grateful for our ensuite bathroom (complete with (live) frog half way up the bathroom door). Apparently Jamie and the other 3 people who arrived with us enjoyed a nice 3 course dinner (we could get used to this).
At 4pm our first real activity began. We were back on the boat to Monkey Island. Monkey Island was only about 10 mins away and apparently supports 3 different species of monkey. We waded through stagnant muddy water which went over the top of our wellies, walked round a short trail, got eaten alive by mosquitos, shouted to the monkeys and waved bananas, but all to no avail - they didn´t show themselves. We returned back across the floods and to our lodge for a much needed shower. Jamie was pragmatic, saying what could you expect with wildlife, I on the other hand just wished I´d stayed in bed! We headed out again on the boat before dinner to try and spot caymen. We did manage to see a couple of very small ones, but nothing like as big as those we'd seen up at Iguazu. We hoped for more wildlife over the next few days! Another 3 course dinner before bed again at 8.30, it seems to be becoming a habit!
Up at the crack of dawn (5:30am) to get a boat ride to the ...National Park. We were on the trail walking by 6am, and stopped
for a much needed snack at 7am, by which time the sun was pounding down. We saw much more wildlife this morning, the elusive monkeys as well as a whole host of parrots, parakeets and lots of interesting trees. Our guide had studied the medicinal qualities of plants, and also grew up in the Manu jungle, so was able to tell us about all sorts of remedies and hallucinogenic practises and traditions of the tribes peope. All very interesting. The best bit though was when we got to the lake, and got on a smaller version of the boat, without a motor. Our guide rowed us round the lake, and we saw more monkeys and birds on the banks, and best of all otters in the lake. The otters were amazing, at one point we got really close and could see them eating fish (even without binoculars). Despite the fact that the lake is filled with Piranas, Jamie and I decided to take a dip. The water was so warm! I guess that's what you find in tropical rainforests. They even had a rope swing and Jamie had great fun climbing up a tree and swinging out into the lake.
We walked back, spotting wildlife en-route. Jamie nearly stepped on a snake, unfortunately our guide didn´t see it so couldn´t identify it for us (in fact I'm not sure he believed us, but it was definately there, we both saw it). We were shattered once again by the time we returned and both enjoyed a well-earned nap in the hammocks before lunch.
Jamie: A bit more of a relax after lunch, then at 4 pm, we began a trek into the jungle near the lodge. More fascinating plants, including the enormous ceiba tree, the "walking" tree (which, by the action of its roots moves up to half a metre in its lifetime), and another tree that grows around other trees before completely enveloping them and killing them. Our guide, Rosbert, called this the "killer tree". The walk lasted about 2.5 hours and it was completely dark by the end. In the dark, we were able to spot night monkeys with our torches. The guide poked a stick into a hole in the ground to entice the tarantula that lives in there to come out. We could see fireflies flying by, glowing as the went. The jungle at night was
amazing, but all the time mosquitos were flying round us so we were grateful to get back to the lodge. Early to bed again, because we had another early start in the morning.
We were woken at 4am, got on the motorized canoe and headed up river for almost an hour and a half to the clay lick where parrots and parakeets gathered to socialize and lick the mineral rich clay cliffs by the river. After watching this for a few minutes, we returned to Puerto Maldonado for breakfast and then headed to the snake sanctuary. Here we were given a tour, shown various snakes that live in the jungle (none of which looked like the one I had almost trodden on the day before), as well as turtles, tortoises, a warthog-like creature, and a blind wildcat. Then back to the airport to catch our flight back to Cusco.
We arrived back in Cusco yesterday before lunch, and have been mainly relaxing and catching up on our blog ever since. Jen had a massage from one of the many touts you can find around the Plaza de Armas, which she really enjoyed and decided was worth the money.
We were really tired by the evening, but managed to stay up to 10:30. Hopefully no more early starts for a while. This evening, we are catching the night bus to Arequipa.
Jamie and Jenny
PS: Jen wants you to know that she counted no fewer than 45 mosquito bites from our time in the jungle!
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Elaine Whitehead
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Fantastic! We've been hanging out for this installment. Glad to see you had a good birthday Jamie - even if it was hard work - and a birthday cake too!