Cruising the Patagonian Fjords

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The Navimag ferry is a regular route between Puerto Natales and Puerto Montt. It takes three days to travel the 1500 km route through the channels of southern Chile taking passengers and cargo. The ferry left Puerto Natales at 6am on the first day. We had to board it the previous evening, when we were given an introductory talk, then they showed Motorcycle Diaries on the big screen. We were moving by the time we got up the following morning.

The thing about journeys like this is that they can be fairly monotonous. There was something of a routine to the day, but they manage to keep it fairly interesting. In between the (substantial) meals, they show films and give talks, and always announce when we are passing something interesting. So to pass the time we learnt about the Kaweskar people, who are native to this area, and Chilean slang, of which they use a lot.

Our only stop along the way was Puerto Eden, which was founded as a meteorological station, and is now home to some of the few remaining Kaweskar people. It is only routinely reached by the Navimag ferry. We arrived there sometime early in the morning after the first day, and those of us who got up just before breakfast were able to see it before we continued on our journey. Later that day we went through the English Narrows, a very narrow channel where the sailors have to make some very tight manoevres. They dont seem to bother slowing down at all. At the end of this, we pass a small statue of the virgin Mary, who protects all sailors. As we pass, the captain blows three long blasts on the horn followed by a short one. Shortly afterwards, we pass a shipwreck.

For most of the way, it is fairly calm, however on the afternoon of the second day, we cross the Golfo de Penas and into the Pacific. We took sea-sickness pills just before and feel fine, but that evening (still in the Pacific) the bar is empty and no-one seems to be about. Probably in bed either sick or sleepy from the sea-sickness pill. We sail back into the channels and relative calmness sometime in the morning.

Since it is still off-season, the boat was not full, and we got a four bed cabin to ourselves, however there were enough people to provide a lively atmosphere. On the last evening everyone crowds into the bar for bingo, and to drink the rest of the alcohol that we brought onto the boat with us. And some pisco sour. A mistake. The ferry arrives at Puerto Montt early in the morning and we are woken for an early breakfast followed by disembarkment. The general advice is to leave Puero Montt straight away, so all the passengers head straight to the bus station, where we almost immediately get on a bus to Pucon. I spend the whole of the 6 hour bus journey regretting the pisco sour.

Jamie

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Photos

The Navimag Ferry
Home for three days

Comments

[barrygahan]

Great description of the trip. We're taking the Navimag ferry tomorrow to Puerto Montt and it sounds like a fun few days.