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Published: October 24th 2007
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After a late night we were looking forward to a late breakfast and an easy departure from Bucharest. Instead we were woken up at 8:30 by the worst thing one can get woken up by; young American girls. They didn't extend the courtesy of creeping around as we had the night before. Quite happily they dressed, spoke and giggled without a care given to the two of us sleeping (or not sleeping). This was not the start we had planned.
Once all sign of them had disappeared we got up, dressed and packed and went for the best meal of the day; breakfast. Again we had egg, breads and spreads; I particularly enjoy the fresh white bread and strawberry jam and only ate a mere 6 slices! We had given ourselves plenty of time and so after chatting to a few people at the hostel we sauntered to the metro (via the pharmacy to help remove the colds given to us from Brasov).
Two squished metro journeys later we were at the train station and went to buy tickets. Romania has a very strange system where you pay for the kilometres you travel within the country and also have
to buy tickets and seat reservations; the latter can only be purchased over an hour before the journey (we were 50mins before ours). The lady told us we needed 36 lei for both of us and so we headed to the supermarket to spend all our money other than the 36 lei. We got all the travel essentials and nipped and got some fornetti to get rid of the last couple of lei.
After speaking with a nice man working on the platform we got onto the train and was told the reservation would be 36 lei. Excellent. We were guided to a cabin in a sleeping car but this cabin was too nice; only two beds and ones that were wide enough to sleep on. Something must be wrong! We quizzed the conductor and he assured us it was second class but said it would cost €36 not 36 lei! Steph was certain we were being conned and so nipped next door to ask some Aussies how much they paid. Meanwhile the conductor grabbed me to show me the prices; he had a piece of paper clearly saying that 2nd class cost €15 and 1st €25! Steph joined
me saying the aussies had upgraded to 1st class from elsewhere. When I told him we weren't paying for 1st class he said it was 1st class at second class prices. After much arguing and insisting that we were paying no more than 36 lei he still wanted to charge us €30 so steph showed her empty purse and he suddenly said "ahh...you can't afford it, there are cheaper seats down the train". Who says money doesn't talk (or lack there of).
We moved down the train but the corridor was full so we set down between carriages and prepared for the 8 hours on the floor. After a short while the train stopped and most people got off and the conductor informed us that carriages were being added so we got off and played with stray dogs; feeding them the leftover cat biscuits. Once the carriage was added we got on and sat in an empty compartment. The train didn't move so I went to stretch my legs and saw a guy and smiled at him and went back in the compartment, seconds later he popped his head round and started talking. He was an Israeli and had
been on the train since Budapest and was going to Istanbul a two day trip!
He was a very interesting and the time on the train flew by. The border into Bulgaria passed without hindrance; other than the comical radioing from the border guard upon the acquisition of an Israeli passport. Soon after the quick entrance into Bulgaria the train stopped and we were informed that the train could no longer go to Veliko Tarnovo and that we should get off, at this we parted with our new friend.
On the platform a large group of English speakers had assembled so steph approached them to see what she could find out. They were all part of an organised tour "Intrepid tours" and had established that rocks had fallen on the track and so no trains would go to Veliko Tarnovo although we could take a train to a town near our destination and take a bus. This is what we tried to do.
Waiting at the station was freezing, I was in shorts, so the train couldn't come too soon. When it did everyone piled on and we set off, the conductor helped us with our bags
and found us a seat. We had no idea how far away we were, or really where we were going so we forced ourselves to stay awake. The train seemed to wait at every station for ages and so we asked when we should get off and half understood and half guessed that it would be in 6 stops. Unsure of whether the train stopping in apparent wilderness counted to added up the stops and after six we looked questioningly and got a no motion. Now its worth mentioning that in Bulgaria a shake of the head means 'yes' and a nod indicates 'no' so we were still unsure.
Soon enough after the six stops ours came and we got off. We called the hostel and they were great and came to pick us up. Better than just that; he organised cheap transport for the stranded group and gave a couple of them a lift!
Veliko Tarnovo is beautiful and although it was night the valley, castle, churches and houses looked jawdropping. We arrived at Hikers hostel which not only has a perfect setting and a lovely building but has a hostel cat! Some stroking later and after
chatting to an Aussie at the hostel we went out in the icy cold to buy some food for tea. After warming up in the shower we made some pasta and some pizza baguettes using the pasta sauce and ate in our private room in candle light then went to bed. Night. stob
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Nina
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Playing with stray dogs thats an intresting past time!?! The place looks great and its wonderful your meeting such nice ppl whereever you go, apart from totally ignorant americans of course!