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Published: June 14th 2007
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Today , the jet lag has eased and feeling a bit less stuffy in the head, I am able to now collate my thoughts a bit better, perfect time to start my blog. After around 30 -feels like 60-hours of flying and airport hanging around we arrived in the south of France. At Marseilles airport, I awaited questioning by the immigration officer, to my surprise there was no customs, no questioning, no searching bags - nothing. I don’t even know whether the European authorities checked that I had a visa to come into the country.
It was an amazing experience arriving back in Arles. Everything is just so stereotypically French. The old 16th century stone houses, cobbled streets lined with cafes, boulangeries, gorgeous little boutiques, and the French language floating in the air like a cool breeze on a hot summers day.
I’ve been to Europe 3 times already, but its always a bit of a culture shock coming here. In France anything goes - for examples all the dogs in the city. If a dog paradise exists, this is it. The French take their dogs everywhere with them. You see dogs lying under restaurant tables (looking incredible
bored), in the pub, in the streets and quite often just walking around unleashed. And where theres dogs, theres doggy doo, so while you’re admiring the old city, you have to dodge the doggy doo, and watch where you walk.
We went to the market today, to buy some fruit and veggies, and I was amazed at the size of the market. We walked for about an hour round this market, buying lots of veggies, fruit, olives, cheese and of course the horrible saucisson. Its such a lively place, the vendors tempting you to buy, offering tastings of their products. At the moment, summer is arriving and with that comes all the sweet melons, watermelons, peaches and nectarines. The tomatoes are also tasting really good and it’s the time for lots of salads - paradise for me. I love the colours, sounds and smells of the market. I think its one of my favourite things about France.
Benoits sister mentioned that the food has become very expensive lately, especially the fruit and veggies. Comparing it to NZ, its actually quite similar prices though. I then asked her, with a worry in my eye, whether wine was still ‘cheaper
than water’ and she said yes, don’t worry about that. This was proved to me yesterday when I saw a bottle of white sauvignon for one euro. That’s equal to $2. When Benoit saw that, he said he wouldn’t touch that wine. But that’s just an illustration of how cheap wine can be over here. I don’t know too much about it at the moment, but I think you can get a ordinary wine for 3.50 euros (=$7).
However, after trying a chardonnay last night, and the sweet Muscat the night before, I was a little disappointed. I am now on a mission to find the perfect white wine (for me) here in France (surely it must exist). It seems the sauvignon blanc - fruity, light, with lots of aroma, is not as easy to find - especially after enjoying the quality NZ sav blancs. There are lots of reds here, and Benoit’s family seems to drink a lot of red, however I don’t think for me a red wine goes down well in summer. There’s also lots of rose I can turn to if I don’t find the ultimate sauvignon, not to mention the champagne and the Muscat
de Frontignan.
When we arrived on Tuesday, we weren’t too sure where we were going to stay - ie which parent’s house. Both Benoit’s mum and dad are pretty keen for us to stay with them, his mum talking up Arles and the surrounding region, and his dad speaking highly of Frontignan and Montpellier. They are not far apart, but we really need to settle in one place in order to find jobs etc. Suprisingly we arrived and were told that Rodolfo (Benoit’s mum’s boyfriend) is giving us his holiday house in the city centre of Arles to stay in. It’s a charming double storey home in a cul de sac, about 50 meter squared with big windows and lots of light- just perfect for us. Rodolfo is an architect who enjoys renovating and restoring old things. His house is full of old restored furniture.
Its been just over a week now in France - a week of mixed emotions for me. While I totally love staying here, it’s been very challenging, language wise. Not to mention tiring. After a weekend at Frontignon, which is where Benoit’s dad lives, I was ready for a break from French, so
its been a relief back in Arles where I can escape the language barrier a bit. Honestly, I can understand a lot more now, but it takes an immense amount of concentration to try to understand, and I feel a lot of the time I am guessing what is being said. Its still early days, so I have to stay positive and take breaks when I need to refresh my brain.
Frontignon is a little city by the sea close to Sete and Montpellier. We took the train from Arles to Montpellier, and it cost us an enormous 15 Euros (NZD$30) each for a one way, 40 minute trip. We were shocked. The train was modern, clean, and very fast but very expensive. After a short tram ride in Montpellier, his dad was waiting for us at the tram station, and took us back to his place in Frontignon. His dad has a very modern house, with a large downstairs area reserved for us (with kitchen, bathroom and bedroom) where we will eventually stay. They are still busy renovating the place, and it now turns out there is some work for Benoit around the house, for which his dad
is happy to pay him for. Perfect.
We spent a pleasant evening on the deck, enjoying the lovely summer meal Marie made for us and of course drinking the Muscat de Frontignon. Whilst relaxing on the deck, I was bombarded by a hoard of seagulls who decided to let go an enormous dropping on me, in my drink and around me. I was obviously the target of attack, as no one else was touched. I honestly thought it was raining, the amount they dispersed on me. Benoit’s dads reaction was : Je jamais vu ca , meaning I have never seen that before - after all the years he has lived near the sea. I should have played lotto the next day, unfortunately I was distracted by the fruit and veggie market.
Frontignan was bombed during the war, because there was a petrol refinery there, from what I could understand from Marie. So a lot of the buildings are from the 1950s. It doesn’t have the history and charm of Arles, but it does have a beach nearby. And a lot of tourists come for the Muscat - a very sweet white wine, usually drank as aperitif, it
must be very cold.
Its now my eighth or ninth day here, and time is pleasantly passing by. We have got into a bit of a routine here back in Arles, because we are helping Benoit’s sister in the shop. I now have a little baby nephew, who is the cutest sweetest little boy. So I have been helping out looking after him a bit and its really good for me to learn some baby tips.
Benoit has found a job, just once or twice a week working at a touristy café next to the arena. He has been hired as a ‘consultant chef’, and will be making new menus for the place and teaching the current chef (who knows nothing) how to cook. He is quite chuffed. The job came about from his sister and mum, who know the owner of the restaurant, and obviously have been talking highly of Benoit’s skills (they are very proud of him).
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Michelle
non-member comment
Sounds like a good start!
Welcome to the blogosphere! What a great idea to document your travels. (It saves writing the same thing in 50 e-mails to different people!) G is off to Paris today, and I wish I was too. The sunshine, food and wine sound wonderful! My favourite white wine in France is Pouille-Fuissé, from the Burgundy region. It's not cheap, but if you enjoy fruity wines it's very, very nice! Don't worry about the French, it will get easier the longer you are there. Have you decided how long you are staying yet? Enjoy yourselves, and keep in touch. Michelle www.loveinatent.blogspot.com