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Europe » Spain » Galicia » Santiago de Compostela
June 10th 2007

Published: June 10th 2007

Well hello to you all. I am sorry that it has taken so long to update this blog but as some of you will know I have been sick. Just a vomitting thing which really had me out of action for about three days. It meant that I went by bus and then two days Marian walked alone. However, the good news now is that I feel great but my left foot is still complaining with a couple of blisters. Not too bad though! It was terrible when I was sick as there was only one place I wanted to be and that was HOME!!!! As luck would have it we checked into a hotel the night the vomitting came on and can you believe it.......there was a bucket in our room so someone was truly watching over me!

Burgos was a lovely city then we caught the train across to Leon. Both cities have gorgeous cathedrals. When we were coming into Leon there were 8 helicopters in the sky. It turned out that the King was due in town! As we came across the Mesata from Burgos to Leon the fields of poppies were amazing. We have seen many gorgeous wild flowers. This is certainly a lovely time of the year to visit. Stayed in the convent in Leon. Separate sleeping quarters for men and women! A change from some of the places we have stayed in.

The next day it was a bus to Astorga which is a lovely town with another beautiful cathedral. In Astorga we met a lovely lady, Mary, who is travelling with four other NZers. She is from Northcote Point and had injured her leg so could not walk. It has since turned out (we have seen her again and have mobile no. of her friend) that she has tendanitis (?sp) which many people seem to be suffering from.

We walked from Astorga and the fields were filled with highly perfumed yellow broom. Walked through many quaint villages. That night we ended up in El Ganso which was practically abandoned ´settlement´with a cowboy bar! Accom. was ok and we had dinner at a little place next door. Food was terrible but a very lovely mother and daughter served it to us. Daughter prob. around late 30´s. Took a photo of us which I have told her I will post to her. They serve these pilgrim meals which usually cost around 7 to 8 euros and consist of 3 courses. You can choose from things from 1st course which is usually salad w tuna, pasta or such other then 2nd course consists of always chips and some kind of meat. Followed by a piece of fruit or some kind of cake or dessert. On the above occasion we were not given a choice and got pasta and tuna, 2 fried eggs (even you Dad would not have liked them), chorizo sausage and ghastly thin chips dripping in oil but there was a salad that Ross and Dad would have loved! The saving grace was the home bottled peach that finished the meal. Also had a bottle of red wine and bottle of lemonade and all for 7 euros each!!

The next day we walked to the sounds of cuckoos. A shame we could have not stayed at Rabanal as you can go to a service with the monks there. This is the day that we walked to the highest point of the walk and left our little stones we had brought from home. Michelle, I took a photo of them and your greenstone shone brightly! By the time we got down for lunch I was feeling hot and had very sore feet so it was a taxi to Molinaseca and that is where I was sick!!! Don´t know what it was but apparently lots of people have had it.

We then caught a cab the next day to Ponfederra. It was a glorious sunny day and a lovely place. I shame I felt so terrible. We then caught a bus to Villafranca which is gorgeous and it was 33 degrees. I was feeling a little better and we stayed in a loverly albergue up the hill. Here we met a couple from Akaroa!!

The next day I was feeling much better. A glorious day so Marian set off walking and we decided we would meet up in a couple of days. I hitched a lift with the albergue man and met up with a lovely Irish lady whom I shared a room with in a pension in O´Ceberio. There were a few walking wounded travelling in the car. Most had tendinitis.

O´Ceberio is in the Galician hills and the scenery is truly spectacular. The little place we stayed at had the most glorious views.

The next day it was a 7am bus to Triacastela where once again I met up with the couple from Akaroa and Marian arrived a day early so that was a real bonus. Janet....the driver took me over the road the Camino went so all was not lost as I got a good idea of what I had missed. Lots of hills!!!!

Finally Saturday 9 June I was back on the walking and what a couple of glorious days we have had. Thunderstorms at night then lovely misty mornings. When we left Triacastela we walked to Samos. There is the most amazing monastry there. We were so fortunate we left early in the morning and made it for the 10am tour. That night we ended up in Sarria and ´felt a pension coming on´. Decided it was comfort and privacy for the night but with it being Saturday there was not a bed in town. We did get the final one.....the suite at the hotel. We had a superking bed and 2 bathrooms!!!!!

Today we have walked another 23ks from Sarria to Portomarin. As yesterday it was very special. Walked through lots of little hamlets and came across the farmers walking their cattle out from under their homes to the paddocks. There was a cute lady we saw today sitting on a fence with an umbrella up (for the sun) where she watched the cattle grazing.

We arrived in by 2.30pm today which was good as we did not leave the hotel until 7.30am. We had picked up some food from the supermarket so were able to have a picnic along the way.

Well I hope those of you who find this long just scroll to the bottom but for those of you who are following on the map happy reading!!!

I am sorry but I don´t seem to find the place to accept your comments but all are gratefully accepted and nice to know that I have not been forgotten!!!!

I don´t know if I mentioned but an albergue is the place we 'pilgrims' can stay at for around 7 to 8 euros per night. The places vary from municipal run places to private places. Some are much better than others. The one I stayed at Triacastela was great but internet not working. Tonight we are staying at a new purpose built place with 100 beds in 5 dorms!! It was very funny when we arrived as these 2 young things checked us in and took our money then showed us to our dorm. It is like a hospital with 10 bunks down each side with curtains separating us from the next dorm!!! However, it is very clean and separate men-women bathrooms. Some places it is very difficult to find somewhere dry to put your things when having a shower. The accom. is really not too bad at all but as you can imagine it is sometimes nice to have a private room!!!

Caroline - I hope that you had a good birthday and that you got the text message that I sent Mum and maybe the present has arrived by now.

Mary and Bob - we did not see the chickens in the church - that was part of the trip we bussed. We stopped at the next village and were going to go back but the place we stayed at - Belorado - was so cute and were were staying in a great pension some German girls had recommended. There was a medieval festival happening the day we left so it was interesting watching the town prepare.

Mum and Dad - I have been meaning to get a card and call but I know you are getting all the news. It is hard to sometimes even find a PO as not a lot around most of these places! Hope you are both well.

Take care all of you. Lots of love, CA

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