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Published: August 9th 2007
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The trip to Milford sound involved a long bus journey with a stop in the picturesque town of Te Anau on Lake Te Anau. The scenery driving through the fjiordland area was stunning with the mountains and valleys etc. Its not actually that far as the crow flies from Queenstown to Milford but due to the mountains the road takes a very circuitous route around. Climb into the mountains and then pass through the Homer tunnel which is the only pass through the mountains and then drop down dramatically to Milford Sound.
I was staying a couple of nights in Milford sound so that I could do a sea-kayaking trip on the sound. This was a full day trip and absolutely amazing. Guiding company were really good, we were all in double kayaks (would have preferred my own kayak but good experience paddling a double) and bright orange spray jackets (apparently so the captains of the cruise boats could see us - certainly no excuse in these things!). The scenery in Milford Sound is stunning with the sides of the mountains rising straight out of the sea and disappear upwards
The weather wasn’t great that day with low cloud
Seal in Milford Sound
one of the wildlife spots, better than the sand flies.. swirling around the mountains and heavy rain showers at times, but this actually made the trip even better. The waterfalls were all running, very spectacular running down the cliffs and the low swirling cloud meant only glimpses of the mountain tops but that gave the whole thing a very eerie kind of feel to it. It was actually nice when the rain swept across and you couldn’t see the other side of the fjord for a few minutes. We stopped on a beach for lunch and hot chocolate and we saw some seals as we were paddling around. It was very awe-inspiring being at water level and looking up the massive rock faces etc. Much better than being on a cruise boat if you ask me.
Went back down the next day to have a look at the fjord when the sun was shining and to see the top of mitre peak so think I was lucky to get to see the fjord in different conditions, so many people come down here just for a day trip, which while great to see it at all much better to spend longer there if you can.
Then got back on
Mitre Peak
Photographed the day after the sea kayaking the bus and headed for Stewart Island with an overnight stop in a small town called Tuatapere. Then onto the ferry across Foveaux Straight to Stewart Island. Only one town on the island - Oban with a population of about 400 people, the main industry is fishing and crayfishing there, and they get quite a few tourists heading out to experience like on NZ’s third major island. Spent three nights on the island. One day four of us from the bus hired a car and drove out the start of a number of different tracks and walked them. the coastal walks had some really nice bays and beaches and views across parts of the island. Most of the island is uninhabited and there are only 28kms of road on the island. Had a great time on the island with its laid back pace of life etc. Then back on the ferry and join the bus again to head through Invercargill and out onto the Caitlins coast.
Caitlins coast is a spectacular section of wild rugged coastline running up the south east part of the south island. Home to lots of wildlife although we only saw sea lions. Also went
Stewart Island
The chain that holds Stewart Island to the South Island to see a fossilized forest, formed when volcanic ash and larva buried a forest preserving the trees that are now fossilized, quite strange seeing petrified trees on the rocky beach next to the sea.
Arrived in Dunedin that night, which is a college city with strong Scottish connections including statue of Robbie Burns in the main square. Something else that Dunedin is famous for is having what used to be known as the steepest street in the world - Baldwin Street (1 in 1.266) (someone decided that it wasn’t actually but who cares its pretty damn steep) wouldn’t want live at the top of it tho we all walked up it and they have a race up it every year, unfortunately wont be there for that!!
From Dunedin headed back to Queenstown, from there the next activity was the Routeburn Track, this is a 3 day 2 night tramp through 33km of alpine scenery. There are huts along the way with cooking and heating facilites and bunk beds with mattresses. So don’t need to carry a tent. The first day was a relatively easy 3 hour walk along alpine valleys to the tree line. Weather was pretty cold
Kiwi sign
Had to be done at some point with some sleet showers, but pretty warm once you get walking. The first hut Routeburn Falls hut was overlooking a valley and right on the tree line so some pretty nice views of the sleet blowing across the valley from the balcony. The huts were pretty comfortable and better than I was expecting. Met an American couple in the hut Kevin and Renee who were heading in the same direction so walked with them the next day. Second day was the best day of the hike with virtually the whole day spent above the tree line in stunning alpine scenery and views of snow capped mountains across the Hollyford valley. The weather was clear and sunny and no wind despite the forecast so had a really great day. Stopped at the Harris Saddle to take a side track up to Conical hill which was a fun scramble with plenty of ice on the track in places, and great views from the top looking along the Hollyford Valley and down to Harris Lake. Track then followed the side of the mountain with the valley dropping below us and the snowcapped mountains looming over the other side of the valley, very spectacular.
Oban
The town on Stewart Island Track then descended into the bush and the hut next to Mackenzie lake. Luckily the huts were fairly quiet for the first time in the season (the huts have a capacity of around 50 people in each), think the weather forecast may have put people off and it was getting late in the season as well. Final day was a shorter day walking along the side of the valley again and ending up at a place called the Divide on the road to Milford Sound. Took a side track up to Key Summit which was a short walk up but great views and some interesting alpine vegetation etc to look at. Hitched back to Queenstown and headed to the spa to soak my weary legs and then get a Ferg Burger - those of you who have been to Queenstown will know what I mean, those that haven’t well it’s the best burger place I have ever been to.
Then spent a few days in Queenstown, hanging out with a group of irish girls (hey to Erica, Suzy, Sarah and Ciara). Did another day hike to the summit of Ben Lomond which was a stunning day walk with
Stewart Island Beach
One of the beaches we walked to great views of the lake and Queenstown and views across the mountain ranges to Mount Aspiring. Also went mountain biking on some of the great mountain bike tracks around.
To get my obligatory dose of adrenaline in Queenstown I did the Canyon Swing, but that will have to wait till the next time.
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Nadim
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From UK London
You have made me Jealous I want to leave ...and fly ..keep sending us your journeys ... what next ?