Buses

---

Ok, the long awaited update on the bus system here in Ecuador. As you already know, buses are very cheap here and a large majority of the population use them regularly. In fact, they really are the only true mode of reliable transportation in Ecuador. Very few families have cars here.

Anyhow, catching and riding a bus is a real cultural experience. Here are some of the aspects related to buses. There really are no official bus stops. You can hail a bus at any point in time along the side of the road. Be careful though, the buses here are prone to not come to complete stops and to take off before you are really on board. It is very common to be half on as the driver starts to pull away - leaving you clinging to a door handle with half of your body hanging out. Drivers are more apt to make a complete stop for women - how chivalrous!!! Once on board, don´t expect to find a seat before the driver floors it or hits the brakes heavily. This could leave you flying through the aisle if you don´t have a good grip on something. Furthermore, you never know if you are supposed to pay for buses as you get on or as you get off. Each bus is different and the system of what fare to pay is rather intricate. For instance, a ride from my town to Cayambe costs $.25 (35 minute ride). However, at random times during the day, the fare is $.22. Sometimes, the bus stops in the town of Tabacundo - which is between La Esperanza and Cayambe and sometimes it doesn´t stop. We have tried for 9 weeks to figure this out, but it is truly random. We have a vested interest in knowing this shedule because stopping in Tabacundo adds 10-15 minutes to the trip. The return home from Cayambe always stops in Tabacundo, but occasionally will not make a stop in La Esperanza, instead dropping us off on the Pan American highway some 5 minutes away.

If you have ever felt unimportant in the U.S. come down here. As you walk along any road that a bus drives down, the driver will honk and flash his lights. The adante (young boy/man) who is incharge of collecting fares and making sure people get on and off the bus, will be hanging out of the bus yelling the destination of the bus and trying to solicit you to hop on board. All you have to do is wave your arm/hand and they will stop to let you on.

The Adante himself is a remarkable person. On any given ride, 40-50 people may get on and off the bus at random times and he somehow keeps track of where you boarded and then charges you accordingly. He will walk up and down the aisle collecting fares and the such. Impressive to say the least - their math skills are top notch. He is also responsible for jumping out of the bus every 10 km or so and punching a time card that the driver has. Now, why do they use time cards, I don´t know. There doesn´t seem to be any real schedule. Some drivers will get the card punched and then proceed to drive about 5km an hour until the next time station. Others will floor it between stations, others will do a combo of both. Furthermore, it is common for buses on the same route to pass each other numerous times during one trip.

Sites for business. It is very common for entrepreneurs to board buses at random points to sell their wares. This may be food, drinks, clothing, jewerly, candies, movies (pirated DVD´s). One guy boarded a bus with his guitar, played two folk songs, walked up the aisle collecting money, then jumped off the bus. These salespeople don´t pay a fare and the buslines seem to encourage this activity. One strategy they have is to board the bus, hand out their stuff to you - as though it were free (gratis), talk about it, then come around collecting money for it. Of course you can hand it right back and all is good - or you can opt out of accepting it in the first place. This process of selling goods on buses is not all that bad on long bus trips, because you do tend to get hungry on trips of 5-16 hours. On our recent trip from Puyo to Quito, I counted 27 people in 5 hours get on the bus to sell something.

Bathrooms. The buses on long trips will usually have a bathroom (baño), however, be ware, it is only for doing #1 and only for women and children. If you get caught doing #2, they will kick you off the bus (how they find out, I am not sure, but they have their ways). Also, if you are a guy and use the bathroom, they will kick you off the bus. So, the moral of the story is to go before you get on and bring a bottle to pee in or be prepared to piss or crap your pants.

Movies. Longer bus rides will have movies that are totally at the discretion of the Adante or driver. I have noticed a large repetoire of bad american films dubbed into Spanish. What´s more is that R ratings are fine for all on board. I watched a vivid sex scence on board a bus with children next to me watching intently. The parents just didn´t seem to be bothered at all by it.

Buses tend to get very crowded and there really is no system of etiquitte. In the states, men usually would give up a seat for a woman who is standing, but that does not happen here. Furthermore, someone down here came up with the idea that it is more efficient to empty a bus from the back. If you are sitting in the front, it is fairly common to be the last one off the bus. You literally have to force yourself into the aisle to get out of your seat and off the bus. If you are waiting at one of the few ¨designated¨ bus stops and happen to be ¨first¨in line, don´t expect to be first on the bus. There is no line, people just pick an opening and go for it. Be rest assured though, the bus won´t pull away with you standing at the stop - they want your business, so just wait calmly for your opening and go for it.

Many buses are standing room only, but on long-distance trips they discourage people from standing. In fact, if you are standing and they go through a toll booth or check-point, they will make you duck down - apparently the driver will get fined if people are standing.

On the few occasions that a bus is full as you are waving it down, the driver or adante will wave his hand back and forth

I love the buses though - it is far and away a great mode of transport and a wonderful cultural experience. Just be prepared to stop at random every 30 seconds or so pick up or drop off a passenger. Keep your wit and your sense of humor with you and you are bound to enjoy the experience. If not, just get off that bus and wait for the next one which will undoubtedly come along in 10-15 minutes.

---

Comments

[Allison]

Love it!
That's cool! Sound very similar to the transportation and driving in Mexico since I was just there... It's CRAZY!! But yes, definitely a cultural experience!!!