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Published: April 3rd 2007
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Slow Boats on the Water
Colorful turquiose boats parked in Huay Xai harbor My intention was to go up north, but I had met such nice people at the Gibbon Experience that I decided to join them on the slow boat to Luang Prabang. From Huay Xia we made it down early to the boat to save seats. The word on the street was to not get there late so that you don't have to sit in the back with the noisy motor nor on the wooden bench seats with no cushions. Luckily, I was with Mumtaj who is an early riser and we were the third people on the boat. The other seven came at various times, three of which attached their motorbikes to the bow of the boat. They weren't kidding when they said "slow boat". It left at ten and was scheduled to get in at about five in the afternoon, so that gave us seven hours to kill.
The landscape along the riverbanks was sparce with massive rocks jutting out of the water. There were rolling hills, the occasional garden, fishermen and of course, the ubiquitous children playing in the water. We made one stop, so that some locals could board the boat to sell its passengers fruit,
Packed In
A view of the passengers on the slooooow boooooat chips and other snacks.
We continued to snake down the river. I decided to break away from my group and meet some other people on the boat. There was a guy in the front playing the guitar. He was really funny and would change the words to Bob Marley songs so that they were more comical. I found out later on in the trip that he has written a couple of travel books, mostly about himself. I read the first one he wrote in which he traveled from England to India overland, with no money, only hitch-hiking (hence his name Tom Thumb). Twelve years later, he is still on the road and is able to support himself through writing.
Only four more hours to go. What to do? Our group played a few games of poker, this time using rubber bands as currency (with knot 10 points, without knot 5). I listened to music, read and sat still while a Phillipino artist graciously sketched a picture of me in my journal. We had the pleasant surprise of actually arriving in Pak Beng, the small half way point town where we would be spending one night, on schedules time.
Jutting Rock Landscape
A common sight from the banks of the river That night we settled into our rooms and ate dinner at a nice candle lit restaurant across the road. I thought they had put the candles out for the ambience, but soon realized there was no electricity in the town.
The next morning we were up and heading to the boat, this time at eight. Our boat on the second day had a section of seats that looked as if they had been taken out of cars. The ride was pleasurable but after the sixth hour I was ready to reach Luang Prabang and use my legs again as a land animal should.
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Mamma Dramma
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My journalistic Daughter
Emily, I love the text that goes along with your pictures, it is so poetic. Please keep the pictures and information coming. Every single day I go to your website to see if there is something new. I love being able to see pictures of you. I love you, miss you, envy you; you scare me to death at times. Love, Your Mamma Dramma