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Published: July 22nd 2005
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Pensive Lavender Squat
Gav & Tatsumi thinking of Nanna...and the doilie bags. Konichiwaaa once again from FNJ...
Just returned from a road trip around Hokkaido with two of our work mates, Tatsumi & Shiori. Our idea (ie. based on Aussie ideals of a 'HOLIDAY') was to get away from work, see a few National Parks, camp it up a treat, sleep in and generally take it easy. Small tip for those of you anticipating a Nihon/Aus joint venture such as this - Japanese people are HARD CORE!
Day One and departure was scheduled for 4am. As such, Sal and Gav saw nothing of the first three hours of the trip, but were happy to wake up and smell the roses...literally! After a quick conveenie stop for necessary caffeine intake, we arrived at the lavender farm in Furano. Soooo much lavender. We felt like we were in our grandmothers' undie drawer...enough lavender to fill a million doilie bags!
Hai! Ikemas sho ka! Captain Shiori, Trip Leader (TL) had us back in the car and bound for Daisetsuzan National Park. Pulled up a piece of rock opposite a gorgeous (and VERY high) waterfall and enjoyed a lazy lunch before setting off again and finding a campsite for the night.
Day Two
Ainu Heritage
You probably didn't know it, but Sal is actually 1/4 Ainu...this explains her recent penchant for the NanaBanana Odori! (7 Banana Dance) departure was scheduled for 4:30am. The gaijin let the team down and slept till 5am, lazy buggers! After a sensational breakfast (bacon n' egg sanga...a very difficult phrase to teach a Japanese person!) we left bound for Shiretoko Hanto, the main destination of the trip. Shiretoko is a peninsula National Park at the most easterly point of Hokkaido. It was one of the first Ainu settlements in the country, the original Natives to the island. We visited a fascinating Ainu museum, where we discovered that the race is almost extinct, and has a very similar history to the inuit (eskimos) and north american natives. The climate up here is so harsh in winter that their means of survival many years ago was just so innovative. We never knew that the humble seal intestine could serve a dual purpose of sprayjacket...AND look so damn groovy!
Stopped at Oshkoshin Waterfall at the start of the peninsula and, after battling our way through about 157 bus tourists and their respective cameras (apparently it is poor form to actually smile for a photo if you're on a bus tour), we marvelled at the sheer volume of water gushing down from some unknown above!
Quite stunning. Made it to the campsite in time to pitch the tent and head to the local onsen (roodie noodie public bathhouse) where we watched a stunning sunset on the horizon. More delicious Kimchee Nabe and Sapporo Drafts by the campfire and we hit the sack. Incidentally, thermarests are officially fantabulistic. Sal should do their ads.
Day Three and there was a split in the camp. Tatsumi & Shiori set off on a wild deer hunt along the east coast and Sal & Gav started an ascent of Rause Dake, the highest peak in the park. Gav was eagerly anticipating running into one of the 600+ bears that live in the NP, but thankfully they were all otherwise occupied! None sighted. Shiretoko Hanto is famous for a number of attractions.
Kamui-waka-no-taki waterfall is touted as one of the must-sees of a visit to Japan, let alone Hokkaido. As you climb higher and higher up the waterfall, the water gets warmer and warmer until you are treated to a natural hotspring onsen at the top. Facing west, it is a spectacular way to enjoy the sunset.
This was closed due to road construction. It opened two days
Utoro Campfire
Mae Ban (every night): Beer, marshmallows & homestyle Nihon cooking! after we left. Bugger.
The next major attraction was the Shiretoko Go-ko (five lakes),
Three of the lakes were closed due to recent bear sightings. Bugger.
The third attraction for us was Rausu Dake, but after climbing for over three hours to reach the peak, we were rewarded with a total whiteout! And the trail down the other side of the mountain was closed due to snow danger so we had to trek back the same way we came.
Bugger. Nevertheless, Shiretoko was worth the hype!
Day Four we travelled back west through the Akan National Park where we saw heaps of stunning lakes and drove through more green green pine forests. That night we stayed at a campground in the middle of Daisetsuzan National Park. It was saiko deshta!!! The best! Really really reeeaaaly remote for Japan and very pristine. There is a gorgeous river flowing by the grounds and immediately next to it is a natural onsen! Free of charge! A real highlight of the trip and a sensational way to spend the last night. Spent ages slow boiling ourselves in the onsen until the sun set and we lit the campfire for
Rausu Dake Sneeze!
You might be able to tell by the look on Tatsumi's face that he sneezed a split second before this photo was taken!! another tasty meal. In classic Nihonjin hospitality style, one of the fishermen we met in the onsen came over to our site and presented us with a bottle of delicious 2002 South Australian Shiraz just because we were Aussie! Without a word, he smiled and returned to his own campsite! The people of Hokkaido have been so generous to us since we've been here...
Day Five we made our way back here to Hirafu and started work again the next day. As with most good breaks, it feels like it was so long ago and we are back into the little rafting life that we're living! A great week, spent with 'grate mates'! (another CLASSIC phrase when repeated by Tatsumi!).
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Soph
non-member comment
g'day
Sal and Gav, your pictures are amazing! Seems like you are having a blast. Thanks for keeping us all informed of your travles, I love reading about it!