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Published: February 20th 2007
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Snow drop
Franz Josef Glacier Paradise Lost So maybe we don't qualify to get into Paradise just yet. We tried hard to find the Lord of the Rings film location. Pushing our van to its limits driving on a dirt track and fording streams. But Paradise did not reveal itself.
The area around Queenstown and Glenorchy could be described as a paradise in itself. More photo opportunities than you could shake a stick at.
We decided it was time to get David a proper horse so we headed for a half day trek at the foot of the Misty Mountains (more film locations) and introduced David to Murray, a long haired hippy who at least also had long legs.
Our trek was guided by someone who had ridden as an extra in a LOTR battle scene so she entertained us with stories along the way.
Our next stop was the little town of Wanaka where, having decided that sore bums weren't enough, we would aim to get sore legs as well. We did a day hike up to the Rob Roy glacier. We picnicked below the terminal face and watched in amusement as some cheeky Keas delved into another tourists bag in
Pu Pu Springs
But the water's so clear... the hope of some lunch. It managed to make off with a few goodies as the tourist was too busy taking photos of the bird to worry about his lunch.
Franz-tastic Quite taken with the whole huge blocks of ice thing, we thought it would be sensible to get a little closer. Well, a lot closer actually. We headed for the imaginatively named Franz Josef, home to the Franz Josef Glacier. Can't think where they got the inspiration to name the town.
The town itself was a little like an Alpine ski resort, full of people in wooly hats in the sunshine, drinking cold beers and hot coffees. And it's set just a few kilometres from the face of the glacier itself.
We opted for the full day hike. This time on the glacier, not near it. A slightly bizarre experience as we were guided up freshly cut steps of ice in short sleeves and sunglasses. Unfortunately we weren't in the group that managed to find a small watering hole for a quick, and mightily refreshing dip. The closest we got was a squelchy boot in a puddle that looked deceptively like solid ice.
We did
Camping it up
Abel Tasman Coastal Track manage to avoid a wet backside though, which is more than can be said for a number of our group. There were more than a few falls, despite the spikes attached to the bottom of our rather fetching boots.
It was a fair reminder that it's not an entirely safe pastime, something that was reinforced a few days later when we heard a radio report of a couple of tourists who had approached the task without a guide and were rewarded with a couple of huge blocks of ice crashing down on them.
While we were quite ready for possibly the hugest pizza we've ever encountered at the end of the day, our guide was off to catch a helicopter to another nearby glacier for a two day hike. Talk about finding a job you love!
Stop the van I need a Pu Pu Having had quite enough of this being active nonsense we decided it was time to head somewhere a little more remote, and found ourselves at the Farewell Spit, the northern most point of the south island.
Here we visited the fabulously deserted and dune covered Wharariki Beach and the even more fabulously
Low Tide
Abel Tasman Coastal Track named Pu Pu springs, which we have to admit were visited almost entirely on account of being able to make endless juvenile jokes at their expense. We were pleasantly surprised to discover that they were in fact not Pu Pu, but a quite remarkable example of water clarity.
Abel Bodied It was almost time to wrap up our adventures on the south island, but not before the final challenge. A three day tramp in the Abel Tasman national park. We strapped an almost ridiculous weight to our backs and set out along the coast to see if we would be rewarded for the effort.
And we were, in spectacular fashion. The sunkissed beaches, tree covered mountains and beautiful green water suggested we'd returned to the tropics.
When we arrived at our first campsite, we found a small secluded beach awaiting us. A little cove we shared with only two other people that night, and a view from our tent door in the morning that will take some beating anywhere in the world.
The following few days were to contain more beautiful unspoilt beaches and endless views of the coast. And a rather interesting tidal crossing. There
Neigh bother
It's a horse this time!! are parts of the Coastal Track that require you to cross large tidal estuaries at specific intervals, depending on the tide.
We were quite diligent in our planning, but despite arriving at the main crossing almost bang on low tide, we had to lose the boots, socks and lower half of our trousers for a knee deep (or thigh deep for Carolyn) wade through some rather un-tropically cool water. All part of the fun, as was getting to the other side and seeing a couple of less prepared girls heading the way we'd come in jeans that weren't rolling up beyond their shins. We're sure they had a fun few hours after the crossing.
And so came to an end our time on the south island, with shoulder muscles that simply weren't there before.
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Brendan
non-member comment
Have not lost ur zeal for life!!
hey carolyn and dave, ur trip in kiwiland looks brilliant and keep up the good work. hopefully meself and a certain other scot might in the future get to see sum all blacks. when are ye heading to south amercia? i am now in the hague, nederthlands. meeting louis in amsterdam tomorrow evening for a weekend of debauchery, depravity, drink and a certain other d. cheers big ears, The one and only Brendan, if u know any other Brendan's let me know but i doubt it.