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Published: April 1st 2023
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Jutting out from the foaming Mediterranean like an impregnable fortress, Corsica resembles a miniature continent, with astounding geographical diversity. Within just a 30-minute drive from the provincial capital city of Ajaccio, the landscape ranges from glittering bays, vibrant coastal cities, and fabulous beaches, sawtooth mountain ridges, verdant valleys, dense forests, and hilltop villages that time forgot. Though Corsica has been part of France for more than 200 years, it feels different from the mainland in everything from customs and cuisine to language and character. Locals love to explain their Corsican identity, so plenty of engaging evenings await tourists, especially if the holy trinity of food, wine and harmonious Corsican music is involved.
A Little Bit of History: In 1769, not long after the island was annexed by France, the future Emperor of the French - Napoleon Bonaparte - was born in Ajaccio, to a native family descended from minor Italian nobility. His ancestral home, Maison Bonaparte, is today a visitor attraction and museum. Unremarkable from the outside, the old town house where he was born and spent his first nine years, was ransacked by Corsican nationalists in 1793, requisitioned by English troops from 1794 to 1796, and eventually was
restored by his mother. It’s now preserved as a museum filled with interesting displays and memorabilia, despite the loss of its original furnishings and décor. Highlights include a glass medallion containing a lock of Napoleon’s hair. Ajaccio’s international airport bears his name.
Ajaccio’s city center is easily explored on foot. Located just a few hundred feet from the island’s cruise terminal, the city’s main landmarks, shops and eateries are easily accessible to anyone with walking difficulties or wheelchair users, as the area is flat. The main shopping areas are centered around Rue Fesch, Rue Bonaparte, and Quai Napoleon. Definitely check out Corsican wines and cheeses - the taste is wonderful, and the prices are right. A Tourist Information Center can be found at 3 Boulevard du Roi Jerome, near the main square Place Foch, about 800’ south of the cruise terminal - less than a 5-minute walk. More tourist information is available online on the official website
www.ajaccio-tourisme.com. A taxi rank is available outside the terminal but be advised, rates can be quite expensive so feel free to negotiate the final price. The drivers may not speak English (or simply pretend they don’t), as the official language in Corsica
is French.
A couple of tourist tips for Ajaccio:
· The Petit Train d’Ajaccio is a little tourist train that departs from Place Foch and offers 2 circuits: Circuit Ville offers a 45-minute commentated ride around the historic center with a 15-minute stop at Grotte Napoleon Memorial. Circuit Sanguinaire offers a 110-minute ride around the historic center and the city’s outskirts, all the way to the Sanguinaires Islands (Iles Sanguinaires), with a 15-minute stop at Grotte Napoleon and 10 minutes at Iles Sanguinaires. Place Foch is about 900’ south of the cruise terminal. More information, check out their official website
www.petit-train-ajaccio.com.
· Ajaccio Vision is a double-decker open-top bus (I know it better as a HOHO bus), that also departs from Place Foch and offers 2 circuits, very similar to the above. These bright yellow buses are my personal favorite and they are always my first choice in any city. More information:
www.ajacciovision.fr. The currency here is the Euro and credit cards are widely accepted.
Nicknamed Isle of Beauty, Corsica truly is a Mediterranean gem, unlike any other island in the region. As Napoleon once said: “the best way to know Corsica, is to be born
there” – truer words were never spoken. This is an island of wondrous sights, aromas and tastes……spectacular landscapes such as the red granite cliffs known as Prunelli Gorges, where massive cliffs dip into a river, surrounded by chestnut and pine trees. Another natural wonder is the Vizzavona Forest consisting of 800-year-old pine trees, located in an amazing 4,000 acres of protected land in a mountainous preserve you will never forget. And for sure, you can’t depart this magical island without stopping to view the Calanches UNESCO World Heritage Site. Situated on the coastal road leading to Piana, this lush landscape contains red granite rock formations that tumble down steep slopes into the shining sea below.
It’s very possible you will detect a distinct fragrance which surrounds this island, which originates from chaparral flowers and purported to be one of Napoleon’s favorite scents. Locals use this chaparral as an extract for the basis of world-renowned perfumes. Corsica is also famous for the macchia mixtures which fuses evergreen herbs composed of rock rose, Corsican mint and myrtle and is widespread across the island.
When it comes to cuisine, Corsica is famous for its wide array of locally crafted cheeses which
complement a local game dish of wild boar. Try tasting a local favorite known as “civets” meaty stews and hearty soups made from fresh vegetables and herbs. Love sea food? Give a thought to ordering some “aziminu” rich bouillabaisse. Save a little room for a spoonful of local honey. The Mediterranean climate beckons bees to gather pollen year-round from a variety of island wildflowers, producing an impressive assortment of honey flavors.
A Few Interesting Facts: 1. Corsica has one of only three tortoise protection centers in the world. The facility is home to more than 130 species of turtles (known locally as cupulattas) and tortoises from all over the globe 2. The origin of the name “Corsica” is subject to much debate and remains a mystery. To the ancient Greeks it was known as Kalliste, Corsis, Cyrnos, Cernealis or Cirne. The last 3 variations derive from the Sirenusse (meaning “of the sirens”), the very same Sirens mentioned in Homer’s Odyssey. 3. In 2018, Corsica had the highest murder rate in France, which were the result of family feuds between clans on the island, and vendettas or revenge actions for insults against the honor of a family. They are commonly referred to as the Corsican Mafia.
4. In 1584, the Genoese governor ordered all farmers and landowners to plant four trees annually: a chestnut, an olive, a fig and a mulberry tree. Now, numerous communities owe their origin and former richness to the ensuing chestnut woods. Chestnut bread keeps fresh for as long as 2 weeks.
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D MJ Binkley
Dave and Merry Jo Binkley
Corsica
We spent 2 weeks in Corsica last year and drove all around. Those tiny roads are something. A beautiful country.