The payada in Uruguay


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South America » Uruguay » East
June 19th 2011
Published: June 19th 2011
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Dear reader

What on earth is payada, I wanted to know? Guapo tells me it’s a form of singing to the accompaniment of guitar. But it’s not your usual singing. No, it’s improvised singing, and done in rhyme. Each singer must answer the questions posed by his or her opponent, and then pose some questions in return. This form of singing, really a form of poetry, is very popular in Uruguay. Sometimes it’s done as a duel. Duet payadas can last several hours, even days. And they don’t end until one of the singers stops. A kind of cricket with only one player on each team. Bad analogy but you know what I mean.

The great thing about travelling virtually in Uruguay is that I can sit in my living room, at our computer, and learn additional details to what Guapo’s told me over dinner. Had he heard of Dia del payador? No. So we learn that one of Montevideo’s native sons, Bartolomé Hidalgo, born on 24 August 1788, is considered the first gaucho poet of the Rio de la Plata. His birthday has been chosen as Dia del payador en Uruguay (day of the ballad singer). What exactly happens on this important day I’m not sure, but we’ll be sure to find out when we’re actually in Uruguay. And if in our travels in October-November we come across any statues of a man strumming a guitar it could well be a payador! The topics chosen by the payadores or singers are often based on current affairs. The duel becomes a sort of discussion of the topics of the time: AIDS, drugs, corruption, homelessness.

In my viritual travels on the web I come across loads of Uruguayan payadores, but one of the more well known is Gustavo Guichon. He’s got his own web site and performs all over the place. Have a look at this video recording of his payada or homage to Mujica, the President of Uruguay, and his wife:
[url=//www.youtube.com/watch?v=e_sxNsJPCgE

I would never dream of having this experience in real time. Travelling on the ground with all the hassles of accommodation and meals can often mean you miss out on a lot. Watching Guichon's payada on YouTube is just fabulous. That's what I love about virtual travel. You get to experience the extraordinary. Don’t you just love the backdrop and camera work?

Bye for now
Guapita




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