Montevideo: Parillas and Peñarol

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Uruguay isn´t often a high priority on the backpacker´s itinerary, but for us it was a must, since Katie´s Tia Carmen lives in Montevideo and we could hardly pass so close without stopping by for at least a few days. Plus, it´s always nice to get an extra stamp on the old passport to keep you looking super well travelled and interesting! As it turned out however, I couldn´t have been more glad that we took the detour. We had a fantastic time, and although we didn´t really see much of the city itself, the cultural experience was invaluable.

By far the quickest way to get from BA to Montevideo is by ferry, so we hopped on the Seacat (yeah, that´s right... I´m pretty convinced there´s some relation to the Stranraer ferry those of us from Norn Iron all know and love!) early one Friday morning and were in Montevideo by mid afternoon. Due to a small misunderstanding, we ended up at Katie´s aunts home to find that they had been waiting for us at the station all along! Not to be detered, we jumped back in a taxi to the city centre, where we were met by Carmen and her new husband Antonio, and treated to our first of many Uruguayan "parillas" or steak grills of which they are fiercely proud. And I have to say it certainly didn´t disappoint! Like their counterparts across the border, the Uruguayans certainly don´t sacrifice quality for quantity, I´m sure I ate at least the equivalent of your average-sized cow during my 4 day stay. The meal set the tone for the entire stay, as despite our best efforts at protest, we weren´t allowed to pay for a single thing the entire time. Although I must confess my Buenos Aires-weary wallet wasn´t exactly complaining to hard! We spent the majority of the next few days with the family, and with Carmen´s godson Vincente, who took us out clubbing on the Saturday night for a taste of Montevideo´s famous night life. I´m sure we would have had a great time if it weren´t for the mega argument that broke out between Katie and I... I suppose it was only a matter of time before the first one. At least we got it out of the way early! The highlight of the stay however was undoubtedly the Sunday, when Carmen and Antonio invited a huge crowd of friends and family over for the traditional Sunday BBQ (more steak!). We sat for the majority of the afternoon around an enormous table in the sun-drenched back garden, drank Uruguayan beer and discussed everything from football to local politics. It was such a fantastic thing to be a part of, and one of those experiences that is only made possible by spending time with a local family, something most travellers aren´t fortunate enough to do. Watching how the family interacted, how they welcomed us into their midst and the enjoyment they got by stuffing me full to the brim of choice local cuts is something I won´t soon forget.

A side note at this point: an interesting cultural observation that has occurred to me over the course of my experiences with local families in both Venezuela and Uruguay... it seems that to the South American mind, a young man can never possibly be full. No matter how I may squirm and protest, to a man my hosts insist that I try this, try that, have some more, don´t be a wimp, just a ¨waffer¨ thin mint... shades of Monty Python! Honestly, I can´t resist their hurt, pleading eyes when I decline my third ribeye of the afternoon. I now regret not weighing myself before and after the trip... I´m sure it would have made for some interesting results!

The rest of the day was spent playing a bit of football in the back garden, where, over the course of a conversation with Esteban, Antonio´s youngest son, i was introduced to the passion behind FC Peñarol, Urugyay´s largest, and I am assured, South America´s most successful team of the 20th Century. Esteban was kind enough to gift me his treasured Peñarol scarf, on the condition that I send him pictures of its travels to South America´s most famous destinations. At least those of you who read this and see the curious snaps of me posing with a strange black and yellow scarf now have your explanation! More than anything I find myself grateful for the gift as I sit writing this in sub-zero temperatures in Patagonian Chile. So cheers Esteban! Viva Peñarol.

On our penultimate day we finally decided we should take a trip to the town centre and see some of the famous ¨Ciudad Vieja¨. That evening we were also treated to some local liqor and tango music in one of Montevideo´s oldest and most charming night spots, the aptly named ¨Bar Fun Fun¨. In retrospect, a few hours wandering down by the seaside and amongst the grand old European-style avenues made for an interesting afternoon, but I did see why Montevideo is a less popular backpacking destination so close to the grand and imposing Buenos Aires. Nonetheless, more than the city itself, our short stay in Montevideo will be remembered for the unique cultural experience, and for the incredible hospitality shown by Antonio and Carmen, which so far is unquestionably one of the highlights of the trip.

That´s all for now folks, next stop Brazil and Iguazu Falls!

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