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Published: March 22nd 2006
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The guide book puts alot of pressure on Colonia to impress, describing it as ´a superstar´. Initial reactions were somewhat confused as it appeared to be like any other small town. We left our bags in the hostel and set off to find the beauty we had read so much about. By the time we reach the water´s edge it has grown dark, the town is scarcely lit with small green streetlights barely illuminating the crazy-paved cobbled streets. A notable feature was the abundance of stray dogs which, for some reason, took a liking to me. At one point I must have looked like a proffessional dog walker with about five dogs following me casually down the street. In fact, despite it being Friday night, there are more dogs on the street than revellers. We have some food and retire for the evening...
Day 6 - Bye to Jon and back to Buenos Aires
After a leisurely morning we meander fairly aimlessly around the town. Honestly, I´m not very impressed. It appears to be a town that serves a purpose for a day trip and a few photo opportunities, rather then one to really immerse oneself in. The colonial
Me at Boca
What a hooligan! architecture is attractive but hardly mesmorising so, in true culture vulture fashion we sit in a cafe to watch West Ham Vs Bolton and have some food. I know that sounds bad but hey, it was a cracking game...! The next available boat to Buenos Aires isn´t until the evening anyway.
The boat company ´Buqebus´ as a bad reputation amongst travellers and locals alike. The port is pandemonium when we arrive, and that was only the start... We wait hours to get on the boat, only to wait hours on the boat for it to set sail. After chatting to a Canadian guy for ages we simply assume that the boat has left the port. Yet at a lull in converstaion we realise we haven´t moved an inch in an hour and a half. A slow clap begins among the passengers on board, getting faster and faster in protest of the company´s poor performance. Then an announcement that we don´t understand prompts the entire boat to jump to their feet, grab all their belongings and head to the nearest exit. A tad worrying to say the least, so we follow them immediately.
It soon becomes clear that we
are all being transferred to another smaller, but faster boat. Smaller boat... you could see everyone realising that it will be impossible to fit on the faster on. Pandemonium sets in. Hundreds of people, backpackers, locals, old and young, all trying to reach the next boat to reach Buenos Aires tonight. We are hurded like cattle, with those at the front resembling the start of a sprint race. When we´re given the go ahead we all rush to the steps of the boat, pushing and being pushed the whole way.
We sqeeze on on with not much room to spare, (thank goodness) and arrive at the hostel Millhouse at around 11pm and the place is buzzing. Less of a hostel, more of a bar - perfect for a Saturday night out! The hostel takes coaches to Pacha nightclub - a huge pink building 20mins outside the centre. Great music, danced on the terrace until the sun same up looking over the river. Top night.
Day 7 - Boca Boca Boca!!
A severe hangover greets me in the morning but we´ve nothing to do until we go to the Boca Juniors Vs Quilmes game in the evening...
´Bike´ a pose
(like ´strike´ get it?) The streets of La Boca are buzzing with fans and stalls selling meat and flags as we drive to the stadium. The ground is a stark contrast to British stadia - a huge concrete semi-circle with a stand purely made up of box seats on the opposite side. We take our seats at the very top of the main stand with a great view of not only the ground also the streets outside and the city stretching into the distance. The atmosphere grows steadily as the Boca fans congregate in the home stand, hanging hundreds of flags, banners and huge strips of material. The drums, which do not stop for the entire game, kick start the singing.
The noise is defening even from our high viewpoint. The opposition team get the worst reception I´ve ever heard, the loudest booing and whistling until Boca come onto the pitch when the noise instantly changes. Ticker tape fills the sky and the drums beat louder as 70,000 men jump and sing in unison. Amazing sight. The songs are completely different to English football chants. These songs have rythm, peaks and troughs, several drums and most are accompanied by a hand or arm
motion from every member of the crowd.
The game ends 3-1 to Boca and is a completely unforgetable experience.
Day 8 - To Patagonia, the edge of the world...
We make a quick decision to get out of the city and by 3pm we are on a bus heading to Patagonia and Puerto Madryn. It feels good to be out of the city and I feel healthier instantly. The 19 hour bus ride isn´t too bad and we arrive to the sunny sea side town in good spirits.
We intended to relax today but within two hours of checking in to our hostel we are riding along a gravel track to a sea lion reserve 17 km away. The ride is hard in the sunshine but we stop at sand dunes and various cliff tops to admire the natural beauty we are surrounded by. The huge blue expanse of water glistens in the sunshine to our left while a never ending dry and baron plane stretches out to our right as we cycle.
At the reserve, we are treated to our first sea life sighting. It´s difficult to know what to make of the big
Penguin....
This is the one that did a poo by the way. fat sea lions sitting still on the beach 20feet below us. I´m almost wanting one of them to juggle a ball or to start fighting eachother for my amusement. Now that would be worth my 60p entrance fee. It´s great to see them though and makes me eager to see more of what this huge area of southern Argentina has to offer.
Another 17km on the bike back to the hostel and my bum is in tatters due to the horrifly uncomfortable bike seat. We muster the energy to make pasta, drink two shamefully cheap bottles of red wine, then go to bed.
We arrange to share a car with three Argentine guys to go to Peninsula Valdes tomorrow.
Day 9 - P...p...p...pick up a penguin....
We get up early and head towards the peninsular - a huge national wildlife park. It´s largely baron, bleak looking land but surrounded by coastal areas home to an abundance of wildlife. First stop is a long beach occupied by a group of sea lions, lazily slapping about in the water, barking at eachother and a diving into waves. We were also extremely lucky to see Orchas (whales) which only
come to the shore to feed every fifteen days. Their black fins dip in and out of the surface, occasionally treating us to a bit of tail. We also saw Armidillos who were clumsily walking around, just like hedgehogs but with shells. The seem to like cheese flavoured crisps in case your interested...
Another long drive took us to see some penguins. Again, lazy animals. Where was the funny little waddle?! One of them even had the audacity to prop himself up, just to spray some penguin poo all over the floor infont of us. The scenery at this point is breath taking. Vast stretches of sand and water against a perfectly still, bright blue sky. We saw elephant seals, ostriches (sp) and various other wildlife.
On the way back we stop in a tiny remote fishing village to sample some of the local seafood. Me and Matt share a bowl of delicious rice and sea food. Cracking little restaurant.
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