More waterfalls & Montevideo

---

Hey everyone. Lots to jam into this blog as there has been a bit of a gap since the last one. But firstly, I just wanted to let everyone know that I have finally found an internet cafe with a fast connection and so I have been able to put some photos up. So far I have added some to the Pantanal blog but I'm going to carry on loading to the other blog without photos so go back and have a look. I many also add some more to Rio and Paraty if I have time.

Foz do Iguazu from the Argentinian side

Sorry Brazil but I have to confess that my favourite side for viewing the falls had to be the Argentinian side. The Brazilian side did give you a feel for how vast the falls were, and the helicopter ride was amazing, but on the Argentinian side you got to get really close to the biggest of the falls. There is nothing like feeling that thunder of water and hearing the roar. We started our day trip to the national park by getting very very very wet! We took the boat trip that takes you through the rapids, up the Devil's canyon and under three different waterfalls. Well, when I say under, I mean close into the spray. But enough to get you soaked. This part of the day was just one huge adrenaline rush. The camera was thankfully tucked inside it's vacuum case inside another waterproof bag.

We then went for a wander along the trails that let you get above and close to some of the smaller falls. But the highlight of the day had to be looking down on the horseshoe at the end of the Devil's canyon. To get there we had a short train journey (not a steam one Dad) and then a walk on wooden platforms across the river that flows into the falls. This walk was teaming with butterflies, as is the whole National Park - at various points we stopped to admire another stunning colour or pattern, only to get covered in the little guys who loved feeding off the salt in our sweat, yum! The horseshoe itself was breathtaking. The platform allows you to look right down on the rushing water which disappears in a cloud of spray and rainbows. Not being able to see the bottom gives it a very spooky ephemeral feel. Almost as if you could jump into the abyss and end up in another world. You could also look back down the Devil´s canyon and see the other cascades and the platform on the Brazilian side.

Jesuit Ruins

After the excitement of the falls we headed off towards Uruguay with a few stops along the way. The first was the Jesuit ruins at San Ignacio. Some of our group weren't too bothered by our first bit of history and culture however I spent a good while wandering around, helped by the fact that I had Carly as my guide. Carly did French and Spanish at uni, spent a year in Mexico city and has studied the history of South America so she could not only translate the signs but also give me a run down on the Jesuits. Without boring you guys they basically set up 30 missions across a particular area in Brazil, Paraguay, Uruguay and Argentina. They converted the indigenous population but also educated them, provided social services and created settlements where they could farm and practice handicrafts for work and pleasure. But they got too powerful so the Spanish kicked them out, the missions were abandoned, the forest took over and then they were discovered again in the 19th/20th century.

The campsite we stayed at here was gorgeous as it was right on the river Parana that seperates Argentina from Paraguay. We played ball games in the slight murky river (keeping an eye out for caiman!) and watched the gorgeous sunset as the sun disappeared behind Paraguay. Definitely my fave camping spot so far on the trip.

Salto

We've had to cover a lot of ground over the last few days so we left San Ignacio at the lovely hour of 7am, although this wasn't as bad as our 5am starts. We were a little bit concerned as we needed to cross from Argentina into Uruguay. However these two countries aren't getting on so well at the moment due to a bit of a dispute over papermills. I forget which country, I think it is Uruguay, wants to build some papermills on the river they share as a border but Argentina is against this due to pollution issues. Hence alot of the border crossings are completely closed and the one we were heading for can be open for 6 hours and then closed for 6 hours. Thankfully we turned up at the right time!

After a very long day of driving we arrived in Salto once it was already dark. Salto is a spa town famous for its thermal springs. Unfortunately, because we were off sharpish the next day, we didn't have time for a day at one of the spas. BUT our campsite had its very own thermal bath. So whilst I was waiting for our stir fry dinner I had a soak - it was divine! Thermal baths are def the best way to soothe itchy mozzie, fly and ant bites. The only downside about the campsite was that there had been a downpour that day and so it was a bit of a swamp. Baby wipes were def needed on footsies before you got into the tent. But the plus of the downpour was that we had our first cool driving day, hurrah!

Exploring Montevideo

The next driving day involved miles and miles and miles of open farmland with very very long straight roads. Our lunch stop was amusing as we had to lay out all the tents to dry in the sun because when we packed up they had still been damp from the dew and the swamp. Since we won't be camping for a while (phew - not really) we needed to make sure they didn't start getting yucky. So there we were, next to this road with a whole stretch of verge cover in tents and the fence of the farmland covered in peoples towels, sarongs and swimming cozzies.

My first impression of Montevideo wasn't great as we were met with a stink as we passed the waterfront. This was being caused by the washed up sewage - so much for a clean city! But since then it has all been positive. It feel so so so much safer here than in Rio, although I'm still on my guard as in any city. Last night the whole group went out for dinner in a rather classy (but still so cheap!) restuarant. However we were delayed slightly by the presence of.....Mr Bush! He is apparently doing a tour of South America and is starting in Uruguay. The security was obviously crazy, especially since most South Americans would like to shoot him. The city is covered in anti-bush slogans on any available wall, mainly informing the world that he has murdered South America. The problem for us was that Bush had decided to eat near our restuarant and so they whole area was cordoned off. We did what any sensible people would do, we sat in a bar and drank until he had finished.

The meal was scrummy (most people had their first great steak) and then we moved onto a bar on the street in Uruguay that is THE place to go out. It was a bit of a random mix of music from hip hop to 80s cheese to some live rock. But we had a good ole boogie and very shortly I was well and truly drunk. A hardcore group of us - me, Carly and Emma, moved onto a bar playing South American indie stuff which was rammed with people. We bumped into Penny and Rob and the eve finally came to a close at 5am. The joy of having Carly around is that you actually get to meet and chat to locals properly, plus she is hilarious when drunk. We rolled into our hotel with a rendition of "Hotel California" in the cab - our hotel is of this name.

Today has been very chilled. After only 4hrs sleep Carly and I went for a very leisurely wander around town. Since it is a sunday everything was closed and the streets were empty but this was really nice, especially after the hectic night we'd had. After a fair few shady plazas we ended up at the Mercado del Puerto. This is a covered wrought iron market that has now been changed into one big eatery. Looks of restuarants bid for your custom. We decided to do it the traditional way and sat on a stool at the bar right next to the wood burning grill where we watched our steaks being cooked. It was delish!! (Mum and Dad - I think the only steak that could compare was the one in Italy). The atmosphere was great as the locals poured in for lunch after mass or just to browse the antique stalls. The Mercado del Puerto is in the old city which is a strange mix of banks and old colonial houses that are extremely run down and now house hundreds of the poorer members of Montevideo. It was strange seeing the once glorious buildings covered in weeds, crumbling, we washing lines hanging out the windows.

Next stop

We have the morning in Montevideo tomorrow so I intend to check out the arts and crafts market and maybe take in a gallery. We are off at 2pm to Colonia del Sacramento. Until the next time guys! xx

---

Photos

Wow!
One of the many stunning sunsets I have watched so far in SA. This one at our campsite just outside San Ignacio.

Safety first
Emma and I looking out so sleek in our life jackets. This was pre-waterfall soaking. Post-soaking we looked like drowned rats!

Yet more cataracts
The one on the far left is the biggest of the ones that we went under in the boat.

Look at the spray
And a bit closer in just to emphasise the size of the biggest waterfall that we went under (far left). I'm surprised we came out alive! (ok, so I may exagerate slightly!)

Getting wet
Our boat did this exact move very shortly after I took this photo. This is one of the smaller falls that we went under.

The big daddy
This is only a very small section of the main falls at the end of the Devil's Canyon. My photographs don't really do it justice but I do have some great videos that I can bore you with on my return!

A misty haze
Looking back down the Devil's Canyon towards the viewing point in Brazil.

A sample
Just a few of the hundreds of butterflies that we met on the argie side of the falls.

Three Muskateers
Carly, Claire and I in a bar in Montevideo, pre-drunk. The person missing from this photo is Emma who showed her true crazy colours for the first time that night. These are the girls that I have been mostly sharing the great times with and giggling through the shit times.

What a coincidence!
Jess, Emma (the on the way to drunken and crazy) and Carly. This photo is on mainly for Tom as Jess was in the year above him at secondary school and he went out with one of her mates. It's a small old world.

Lazy sunday.
One of the many leafy squares in Montevideo that Carly and I wandered through on our sunday stroll.

Bush hatred
A sample of the hundreds of anti-bush slogans that we came across in Montevideo due to his visit.

Crumbling splendour
This is one of the streets in old city of Montevideo. These used to be colonial mansions but now each house is inhabited by 5+ families and the builidings themselves are falling to pieces in front of your eyes.

Mmmmm, steak!
This was the first steak I had in SA and I think it still ranks as the BEST EVER. Eaten at a parilla (grill) in the Mercado del Puerto in Montevideo. Yum!!