wandering back to Haunchaco

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Returning to a small place 6000 miles from home can be an unusual experience, 4 months ago we were in Haunchaco and the town was buzzing from tourists and day trippers mostly from Trujillo, Local retailers were doing a booming trade and the place had buzz about it.

The season is now over and it is a different place, a tranquil place with only the familiar local faces. There are a scattering of gringos spending their pennies in the numerous cafes and restaurants but I can't help but wonder how these people survive once the season draws to a close considering it would appear that a huge number of the population seem to depend on the tourist dollar.

The grassed boats still go out and the fishermen still have their catch but the demand must be affected as restaurants no longer have use for their products.

I can only presume that the money made during the season keep the families going when times aren't so good and the tourists leave in droves.

It is nice to be back though and heartwarming as the locals embrace us remembering us and curious about where we have been and what we have been up to. Old fishermen have come out to us on the street with friendly handshakes and warm welcomes. In true Peruvian style the happy faces that were raking in money a few months ago are still smiling and don't seem too worried about the up and coming "dry" months, , I find that in some latin America countries people really do live day to day and let the future take care of its self, they is a generally positivity to life here.

As I sit here on the beach watching the fishermen stand on their grass boats way out from shore I hope the next 8 months won't be too hard for them or their families.

Little kids are marching to school in spotless uniforms pushing and prodding each other, their laughter heard above the waves, A few hardy street venders try to sell their wares to the sparse crowd. The police have gotten fatter as they lay around on the walls surrounding the police station shooting the breeze and thanking their lucky stars the bedlam is over.

A hopeful deckchair renter trawls the beach for willing gringos to rent his chairs.
Prices have dropped in the hostels, some have closed as have many restaurants, Taxistas fight among themselves for your fare outbidding each other to the point that it's comical.

Yet its not a sad picture, people are cleaning up their houses and buildings, the parks are beautiful and the blue sky and unrelenting sun makes it had to feel anything but cheerful.

One group who are loving it are the surfers, the waves are huge and their are taking full advantage.

I'm glad we ventured back.

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