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Published: March 16th 2006
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Lunch (at altitude!)
We bought these crisps at Arequipá (2500m) and by the time we reached Puno (3800m) the bag had doubled in size - such is the difference in air pressure! We left Arequipa on Monday 13th headed North for Puno (on the shores of Lake Titicaca.) Bus journey as ever was not exactly luxurious.... 3 hours in, Rachel develops the need for the toilet. 3hours 5mins in, Rach discovers that toilet on bus is locked. 3hours 10mins in, Rach taps on driver's door to ask for the key. 3hours 15mins, no response from Snr Driver and bus pulls over in the middle of nowhere. Rachel gets off and enquires "¿donde esta los baños por favor?" (where are the tolilets?) Driver responds with a wide hand gesture over open pampa. "¡Aqui!" (here!) 3 hours 25mins rachel crouches behind a couple of stones in full view of the bus.....
All adds to the experience!
Anyway, after said nasty journey, we arrived in Puno which sits on the southern shore of Titicaca and serves as a small fishing port and a mid-point between Cuzco (for Machu Picchu) and Bolivia to the southeast.
Puno itself is drab and uninteresting, the main reason for visiting being the "Uros Islands" which are floating reed islands on the lake inhabited by the "Uros" people.
We took a boat from Puno dock to the islands
Juliaca
On the way to Puno we passed through Juliaca. This scene is pretty typical of Peruvian towns that don't attract tourists... and it was amazing to get off the boat and step onto spongy reeds which actually have little huts and even a school on them! They showed us how they made them (apparently they are 4m deep and as the underside rots they replace it with a fresh layer of reeds on top) - see photos.
After our trip to the reed islands we visited the "Yavari Project" which is an old (the oldest on the lake) steam ship built in England in 1860, disassembled and then transported by ship to Peru and then by mules over the Andes to lake Titicaca (12000ft up) It took them 6 years to transport it!!
The project aims to restore the vessel to it's former glory and when we arrived we were lucky enough to be given a tour by the rather well-to-do current owner who's family apparently owned the original construction company. Very interesting indeed (at least Chris thought so!)....I did too! Just not so sure about the "fly-wheel" and other technical details?¡?¡?
Anyway, after 2 nights in drab Puno we left for Cuzco on a "6hour" (turned out to be over 8!) "economica" bus journey....yuk yuk yuk. The
Pedal Power!
Instead of Taxis or "motos" these pedal powered contraptions are common in some towns / cities. We both got on with all of our bags and the guy pedalled us to the bus terminal.... (Before you accuse us of being mean he approached us!!!!) Un Poco Loco! thing stank and this wasn't helped by the family sat behind us changing their bambino's nappies at regular intervals. Now in Cuzco (are enrolled on a week of spanish lessons starting on Monday) - Juando will be impressed! Going to Macchu Pícchu on Saturday and will probably leave Cuzco a week on Friday.
Love to all. Update soon. See pics for better explanation as usual!
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mom
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Hi to you both. The reed islands sound interesting and the graphic details of Rachels toilet experience sounds like fun! Looks like you are still having a great time apart from the 8 hour bus journey. Take care and love to you both. Mom xxxxxxxxxx