Learning first hand about coca and altitude sickness


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South America » Peru » Puno
June 19th 2007
Published: June 19th 2007
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So... I didn´t get the 6 pm connector bus to La Paz from Puno, because we arrived in Puno at 645, that´s because the bus broke down within minutes of leaving the neighbouring city to Puno. Everyone was shuttled off the bus onto another one passing by, thankfully we didn´t have to wait. I was afraid for my bag, because I didn´t see it go onto the new bus (it all was ok in the end). So I stuck with the Norweigan couple I met on my bus, and we decided to get a hostel together in Puno. Whew, because I had no idea where to go.

We arrive about 50 minutes later in Puno. As we collect our bags we meet 2 Dutch guys and they join our entourage. Now there are 5.
We start chatting in the parking lot and decide we are all going to the same hostel, so we pack up all our stuff (but after the much "needed" cigerette -must be a European thing). We get a taxi and arrive at Hostel Europa. Everything is swell, I get to my room 311 (11 is my lucky number so I take it as a good thing) and upon laying my eyes on the beds the one furthest from me has what.... a dead fly laying on the pillow like a complimentary mint. (When you get solo rooms you either get a double bed or two singles, it´s weird I know.. meh more space). Anyways, the room was decent but really cold.

So after 30 minutes we all go out for dinner. It was nice place, it had an infusion of American food and Peruvian food and some Italian. But don´t mistake "infusion" with something modern. I had a salad (it was massive of just vegetables) and a pizza, the Dutch guy Raul thought this was absurd I was eating for 2. hmmm.... he must not know any female athletes- hahha. So we ate and compared stories and the Dutch and the Norwegians learnt that their languages are very similar to one others. Partially from speech and partially from a cigerette package. We also shared things that are associated with each other´s countries. Of course I had to use beavers and igloos and "aboot" and "eh" but I did go into detail about the differences between provinces and the east and west. Hopefully a better understanding then some American views.

After dinner Raul and Jasper (zee Dutch) wanted to go for a "nightcap" this is what people over 30 call drinks now? haha... I was the youngest there followed by the Norwegian girl Christina. So we walked around trying to find a place. Well Raul got a flyer for a club called "mystic" so we took a taxi there.

WOW...so umm... they had about 5 floors of burgundy carpet from floor to ceiling with 80´s music and videos. It was so tacky it made Hansen look cool again. So we decided to leave because of that but also because in Dutch tradition at least these 2 said, you stand at the bar you don´t sit. Well in Peru you´re not allowed to stand at the bar....hahha or at least at this one. So we left-

We found a hole in the wall pub that all the gringos go to and decided to stick it. There was writing all over the walls from pervious customers. It was a cool vibe. It was here that everything would go downhill-.

You see I was suffering from altitdue sickness but it take 48 hours for symptoms to hit, so I arrived in Cusco a much higher elevation than Lima at sea level on the 13th. I left on the 16th, so the symptoms were starting to appear but I didn´t know it. I just felt really tired. So I didn´t think it was a big deal to have one drink (althought my first reaction was no I am going to bed, I should have listened). Today I found out you shouldn´t drink alcohol if you are suffering from AMS. Well too little too late. An hour after my gin and tonic I was sick. I had a "staggering gait" and I could barely move and I thought I was dying. I honestly was ready to ask for an ambulance. I at least made it to the inner front door. WHO HAS 2 FRONT DOORS????

So Raul helped me to the hostel which was a hella of a trek, we also bumped into Jasper who left a little before I got sick and he came back with us. They got me to my room and I just went to bed in my clothes. I felt better after being sick, but the room was like 2 degrees, I was freezing. So much for sightseeing the next day. So I made it to Saturday morning.... it was a trek but I had a mildly warm shower and then got back into bed, bundled to the 9´s.

At 930 the lady woke me up to get me to pay for my bus ticket tio La Paz.. I was so peaceful. I managed to get her off my back and I woke up again at 1030. I felt better, and made my way downstairs to look for everyone. No luck so I wrote everyone notes and was using the internet when the Dutch came down. We went for breakfast and I loaded up on coca tea. I felt happier and the sun also helped me feel better.

I was good enough to take the bus to La Paz at 230 that afternoon.
I said my goodbyes and then off to the bus station. I met loads of gringos, most were heading to Cochacabana (I think that is right) a beautiful town right on Lake Titticaca- yup... T I T I C A C A-

We were able to see the sunset when we arrived there just after all the border crossings. (I am also aware now that more than one stamp is normal for one page otherwise we would need passports sooner than every 5 years). We had to change buses in Cochacobana and drive about 30 mintues and take a ferry boat (us seperate from our bus across the lake)... that was neat the locals had there guitars out and we were under the stars on the lake.

20mintues later back on the bus freezing and on our last leg to La Paz. I talked to the guy beside me for awhile, he is from Bolivia and was volunteering in the jungle in Peru trapping Jaguars and Pumas for his thesis.

Around 10:30pm we finally arrived in La Paz. Another guy was going there so we banded together to find a hostel, he was also from Canada he is an engineer. After 15 mintues of driving with a hint of death and seeing a drunk man peeing we ended up on a very steep incline to where we thought there was a hostel. I guess it was if 25 American is hostel price. It was a bit much so we foun another one for 55 bolivianos which is like 10 american-. It is super cheap in Bolivia. For 110 Canadian with exchange rates I got 950 bolivianos.

I bought an "alpaca" sweater I think it was wool though, for 8 American which was 60 bolivianos. So we found a hostel and I went straight to bed. I wanted to sleep the whole day through, but I said I would get up for breakfast so I did.

We ate then I had a cold shower that I think I caught a cold from it, you couldn´t even get under the tap you had to bring the water to you. Primitive yes. Aggitating very.

SO I had to put on all my warm clothes and lay under a 2 1/2 inch wool blanket in my sleeping bag with a comforter on top, and I was still cold. Luckily, the sun was out so it was what gave me energy.

We walked about 40 m and I found a place to buy the first part of my trip to Buenos Aires by bus and train. And then we saw a cathedral, you could hear mass going on, that was interesting. It was a big church with a lot of people milling about outside.
La Paz is a big city and it has a lot of qualities of big cities good and bad. But some of the bad were garbage all over street corners, a higher rate of homeless and beggars than any other city I had been in. A lot of traffic and commericialism, unlike Guayaquil though.

Me and my new friend (its terrible but I forgot his name..whoops) walked for awhile and checked out some sights. And then he realized he lost his bank card, it was also my out from going on a bus to the top of a mountain... I kept saying it wasn´t a big deal for me, but he kept on insisting, but I just didn´t have the health capacity to do it.

So we tried to find his card but no luck so we go the number of the bank and then had some food, and then I went back to the hostel to sleep. After that I was on my own and it was nice, I needed some peace and quiet and I was content on my own. I found a cool place with wicked fruit salad and watched futbol and drank coca tea. ahhhh...

Today, I toured a bit of La Paz around my hostel, checked out some shops and bought some things, and took some pictures, and then set out on my way to Oruro a town south of La Paz, at 2:00pm but the bus actually left at 2:00pm. I can officially say, I will be happy to take the subway in Buenos Aires.

On the way I saw a car accident and a dead body. Everyone on the bus shifted to my side of the bus, they all wanted to see the accident. Weird though it didn´t phase me, you couldn´t see his face which might have helped. But there was very little effort to keep the scene under wraps. People were crowding the crash and the body was just on the road. Things must be slower in Bolivia than Canada. Very surreal.

I arrived in Oruro around 5.30 pm today and found a hostel and then immediately went for food. I couldn´t find anything traditional so I opted for this "American" place, not the best. I want fruit. So that is everything up to date, now. Tomorrow I leave for Villazon a city at the border of Argentina. I am taking a train in the executive section for 34 American. It is a 16 hour train ride and food is included, as well as blankets and a reclining chair. ahhh a bit of "luxury". I should be in Buenos Aires by Friday. Not what I expected. I am hoping for Thursday.

I´ll let you know...

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21st June 2007

You don't look that tanned!
Only 6 days left. Better enjoy the beach in Argentina! See you soon.

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