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Published: March 30th 2011
Antisana volcano
The spectacular scenery continued from the plane shortly after we took off from Quito. On the port side, we saw Antisana (18, 870 ft) which last erupted in 1802.KF: We flew into Lima on March 23rd, met my brother John and his wife Peggy, and started on our two week "Road Scholar" tour. Road Scholar is a non-profit travel company which emphasizes the educational component of trips.
It's been SO easy to have someone else organize everything -- transportation, destinations, hotels, food. All we have to do is answer our wake-up call each morning Our guide, Eddy, is part Quechua (indigenous "Inca") and is very knowledgeable about everything local -- Andean geology, plants, birds, the spectacular Incan architecture and the brutal history of the last five hundred years. He is familiar with each site we visit -- he can paint a clear picture of life 500 years ago, and helps us explore architectural details contrasting Incan and Spanish colonial architecture -- Incan temples and Catholic cathedrals, bringing it all into vivid reality.
One of the best was Machu Picchu ("Old Mountain"). We took the train -- the alternative is to trek in with porters -- there is no road. Since every serious traveller in the world wants to go to Machu Picchu, we expected it to be wall-to-wall visitors and a Disneyland-type atmosphere. In fact, it was
Cotopaxi volcano
And then as if Antisana weren't enough, we flew directly over Cotopaxi (19,347 ft) which last erupted in 1940. not at all crowded. The site is huge, surrounded by mountain peaks. There is a haunting beauty and pervasive feeling of awe. We spent the day wandering through rain, cloud , and eventually sun. At the end of the day, we climbed hundreds of ancient carved granite stairs to the highest watch tower. There we sat and contemplated the magnificent beauty of the site. A large black and white bird soared overhead -- we thought it might be an immature Andean Condor, but Eddy later told us it was likely a cara cara -- a falcon. In any case, it seemed a fitting symbol of that amazing place.
TT: As Katy said, we've now been a week in Peru, and for the first time on our trip, part of an extremely well organized twelve day excursion. It has been a cultural, historical, archaeological, botanical, zoological, and culinary extravaganza. The highlight, though, must be the spectacular Inca ruins at Machu Picchu. It sits atop a mountain with impossibly steep sides looming over a narrow canyon of a valley with a raging river at the bottom.
Also a high point has been the connection with food native to the
Met Katy's brother John and his wife Peggy in Lima
We'd been looking forward to seeing John and Peggy and starting our Peruvian adventure! Andean region. Potatoes were domesticated here and white, yellow, red, and purple can be seen. It reminds me of Gefu's exotic potato trials a couple of summers ago. Quinoa (a Quechua word) is also a staple in salads, soups and casseroles. There's an even smaller grain 'quinoacuche' or something like that which is sweet and used in desserts. Third in importance here is corn (maize) and varieties I have never seen are used in desserts, in alcoholic drinks, as crunchy toasted kernels, and in every conceivable way in casseroles, etc. The food is great, and we feel fine.
KF: We've had lots of fun with the other members of our group (6 Canadians and 7 Americans). We have eaten wonderful meals of Peruvian specialties (great soups), drank wine (Peruvian Merlot is pretty good), had live music with local Andean stringed and wind instruments, hiked a bit, shopped a bit (fantastic local weaving with baby alpaca wool). Our time in the Andes is over. Tomorrow we are off to the Peruvian Amazon for a four day boat trip!
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