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Published: September 18th 2010
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We stopped, desperately trying to catch our breath in the thin mountain air for the first time since entering the grounds of Machu Picchu. We had just woven our way through the ancient city and sprinted through the Main Plaza of the Lost City of the Incas, barely noticing the sacred ruins that mesmerized us the day before. We found our place on the seemingly endless line behind the Sacred Rock that snaked its way down to the entrance of Huayna Picchu, hoping we made the cutoff for the first group of 200 hikers.
Huayna Picchu is renowned as that precipitous peak jutting up high amongst the clouds behind the sacred ruins of Machu Picchu. But there is a much greater significance. It is a sacred mountain that was thoroughly developed by the Incas more than 500 years ago who constructed granite stairways, tunnels, terraces, and even ruins at the top that were abandoned before completion. It is believed Huayna Picchu was used regularly by the Incas. Ceremonies were likely performed by Noblemen in honor of their Gods at the peak while workers tended to the plants on the terraces hanging below.
I decided long before my 40th birthday
to use it as an excuse to fulfill my lifelong dream of discovering Machu Picchu. As I was planning the trip, I learned it was possible to climb Huayna Picchu and hike a portion of the famous Inca Trail, all in the same day. It was exactly the type of physical challenge and unique Machu Picchu experience that I was looking for.
The first 10 minutes of the ascent were surprisingly easy. But then the narrow path quickly became precariously steep. Ropes interchanged with a steel cable that was anchored to the side of the mountain. The cable was the only thing separating us from tumbling down the steep slopes to the Urubamba River below. Where there were no cables, we used the granite wall for support as we pushed ourselves along with our inside hands. In some places the rocky trail gave way to well-formed granite stairways skillfully constructed by the Incas. That was when we were more grateful than ever for the Incas’ mastery in stonework.
Suddenly we were stopped in our tracks by the spectacular view of the turquoise blue of the mighty Urubamba River hundreds of feet directly below; and next by the grandeur
of the entire complex of Machu Picchu. The lower agricultural sector unfolded like an accordion with its multiple layers of terraces spread out down the mountain. The further up we hiked, the more spectacular the vistas were.
Our legs burning and breathing heavily, the bright sun and stifling humidity were taking a toll. But we had it easy compared to Hiram Bingham’s team when they first attempted the perilous ascent of Huayna Picchu.
Hiram Bingham, the Yale Professor responsible for the “scientific discovery” of Machu Picchu in 1911, tasked his Assistant Topographer with investigating claims of “magnificent ruins” at the peak of Huayna Picchu.
In his book Lost City of the Incas, Bingham recounts how Kenneth C. Heald continued up the mountain after being abandoned by the four “Indians” accompanying him after they grew exhausted from cutting and climbing their way through the impenetrable jungle. Heald suddenly fell and began sliding down. He managed to grab a bush with his right hand but the severity of the jolt tore the ligaments in his arm. Heald finally reached the summit of Huayna Picchu two attempts and six days later with the assistance of Melchor Arteaga, the Quechua Indian
who led Bingham to Machu Picchu.
Near the peak, there was a fork in the trail that forms the summit loop. Forgoing the long steep stairway to the left comprising the storehouse route, we took the recommended tunnel route to the right. We mounted yet another steep staircase, passed through the narrow tunnel, and negotiated several huge boulders to finally reach the peak. Perched on the 8,700 foot summit of Huayna Picchu, we peered down on the Lost City of the Incas as though we were on top of the world.
From atop Huayna Picchu, it felt like we could touch the snow white clouds drifting through the brilliant blue sky. We spotted the ice cap on Mt. Veronica to the east and the San Miguel Mountain Range to the west. There were approximately 20 people scattered around the peak. Some were talking excitedly, others were laughing and congratulating themselves, while several just sat or laid down, simply relishing the moment.
We patiently waited our turn to take the natural seat that is formed in the shape of an arrow pointing south towards sacred Mt. Salcantay and snapped congratulatory photos of one another. Inches separated us from
a sheer drop with jagged mountain peaks in the distance.
On the treacherous descent we didn’t care how silly we looked making our way down the formidable staircase. Watching others, we went down backwards, placing our hands on the steps in front of us for stability and looking sideways to see where we were going. Fortunately the entire route was not as dizzyingly steep and we made it down safely in about 35 minutes. We passed through the entrance, signing back in so the authorities would not go looking for us.
The second conquest of the day was Intipunku, otherwise known as the Gateway to the Sun. During Inca times, Intipunku served as an important check point along the Inca Trail that was used for traffic control. Known as the great royal highway, the Inca Trail meanders through the Andes between Cusco and Machu Picchu. The Incas used to travel this route for more than a week before finally arriving at the Citadel in the clouds.
Fortunately for our weary bodies, we were only hiking the short 1.25 mile trail leading up the gently sloping trail to the top. From where we stood once we reached Intipunku,
Inca Trail trekkers get their first view of Machu Picchu on the final push of their three and a half day journey. Although we were discovering the ruins in a much different way, we had conquered the physical challenges of seeing Machu Picchu from above. Shortly we would make that same final push concluding an unforgettable Machu Picchu experience.
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