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Published: August 8th 2007
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I guess that Machu Picchu was always going to be on the itinerary. And I guess it was also going to be one of the highlights. And I guess the only risk you would have here is just expecting too much. But none of that here.
Luckily we did get to sleep 2 nights in a row in a bed, as we did get up well before the crack of dawn to try and make the first bus at 5.30am. All in the purpose of making it to the top before the sun comes up.
It´s a bit hard to describe, but by the time we got up the 10-plus switchbacks, got through the ticket gate, and ran up the remaining path for a good spot to watch the sun go up, it was already very light, so no need for flashlights. The main reason being that the whole site, even though it´s on top of the mountain, is still surrounded by even bigger mountains. So as the sun has gone up well beyond these big mountains, it has not broken across them yet. Ergo, we have light, but no sun, yet. And that took almost another hour, in
which we simply had time to take it all in and just chill out (was a bit chilly too still, but no clouds in our way). Only interrupted by an elderly American (why do some persists in giving their country such a bad name) who set up his oversized tripod, and asking people to move out of his picture..... a useless effort even though he persisted. Our humorous triumph came when a tour group of over 40 people marched down the stairs in front of him, almost at the time when the sun came up. Quick panic, but he managed to extend the tripod to get over that.
Sunrise was lovely, with the rays slowly coming across the mountains and onto the ruins. Also lovely as it brought more and more colour into the site.
Albeit that he was a bit slow and occasionaly disinterested, our guide Jose did have a few good choices up his sleeve. One being that he was patient enough to let groups pass, and have a different chat in the mean time, so in most cases we did have a very private and quiet tour, even though there were thousands of people around.
By the time we'd finished our tour, and it was time to bid adieu to Jose and Lilly, only the first tourist trains started flowing into MP, so we had all the opportunity to veer off the site and try other sites and tracks. First being Huanay Picchu.
HP is the big rock/mountain you almost always see in the pack of MP on postcards. On top of it, there are still terrases and houses. These Inka's really loved a challenge when building things! Tough walk, almost an hour, and most quite steep. And when you think you're amost there, they've left a few even steeper stairs and 2 even narrower caves for you to get through! But the views are awesome (to use an American word) in every way. We also had a quiet picnic up there, taking in more of those views.
Next up we made it down those steep tracks and stairs, headed across the site, and went up the last bit of the Inka trail towards the sun gate. Again, being at only 2400 altitude, this time it was all a bit easier for us. Even though the sun was against us (for photo's
not ideal), we did enjoy the views from there as well. Also, running into Lilly again on the way up (she'd already been there, so was taking it slow), so bidding our farewells for a second time.
And finally, after the sun gate, back down again, and across the back towards the Inka drawbridge. Short but interesting walk, as it was the side of the mountain from which we'd taken the train the day before.
All that left us with almost 40 minutes to sit down and enjoy the sunset over the other mountains. The best part here was that most tourist buses and trains had left over an hour before, so it almost feels as if you have the whole place to yourself!
And the main reason why they close at 5pm.... is because the sun falls behind the mountains almost exactly at that time !
Lovely day, almost 11 hours in MP, and not much left to see..... we'll let the pictures do the rest of the talking!!
But I have to admit, somewhere, in the back of my mind, I do think there are many older and bigger constructions in Europe......
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