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Published: June 28th 2008
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Well, we left off at the end of the Inka Trail (and our crazy train ride), but this wasn´t the end of the day . . .
After a ride back to Cuzco in our minivan (with beer in hand and eighties music playing), we saw that Cuzco was ready to play. The streets were filled with families, people in traditional dress, people in costume and all sorts of bits and bobs. No matter how tired we were, this was not a time to go to bed . . . (ahhh, an actual bed, our own shower . . .)
So, after a short breather, we all re-grouped and headed out for a celebratory meal. The meal itself was really lovely, and it started with the traditional pisco sour. This is really yummy, and really alcoholic! There was a house band playing traditonal Peruvian music - as well as some well known tunes (a little odd) and we had yet another amazing meal. Gonzalo then gave each of us a very meaningful Inkan symbol necklace (Chakana) This symbolised the southern cross, and the basic tenants of the Inkan religion. This was a beautiful end to a really amazing time.
Not only is Gonzalo a tour guide, but he is also a musician. He was planning on playing later on in the night and he invited us to come to the square and listen and dance. Yippee!
Firstly, we went to the main square in Cuzco. It is hard to describe . . . all the communities around Cuzco come into town and they organise a (dance??) troupe. They play music and dress up and then each group, one by one, dances around the square. It is a bit of a Peruvian mardi gras, complete with glitter and the occasional float. The atmosphere was so infectious and it was so much fun.
We then went to a smaller square with Gonzalo to catch up with his band. The square was chokkers full of people from all ages, drinking, dancing etc. We seemed to be the only Gringos there, and to be honest, we wouldn´t have gone in without Gonzalo. It didn´t take long to catch up with Gonzalo´s band. There was a group of about 10 men in matching ponchos and beanies (this may sound bizarre, but this isn´t really costume, but what people honestly wear here) banging
on these enormous drums and plying pipes. The sound created was awesome, and we couldn´t understand how they could continue to blow on the pipes for so long without collapsing. Gonzalo says that many rely on coca or alcohol so that they just get into a zone with it. Whatever the method, the music was really infectious and soon enough we were all bopping along. If you are able to open the video we have attached, you maight be able to listen to it. Also, you may notice a van in the background with people on top. That´s the bar. Ingenious! A mobile bar!
Anyway, reluctantly we left at a reasonable hour (physically we could have done more) and headed to bed, ready for an early start, as it was Inti Raymi the next morning. This is what all of the celebrations had been leading up to. It is an Inkan ritual/ceremony where the Sun God is worshipped and a preditiction is made (through sacrificing a llama and burning it´s heart . . .) about the harvest for the following year. We didn´t want to miss this. (the sacrifice we were a little hesitant about).
We all met
bright and early the next morning and headed to the Sun Temple for the start of three seperate ceremonies that take place both in town and on the hillside out of town. It is like a play done in promanade and it was really cool to be a part of.
The ritual start with music (of course) and then one by one, different groups came out on the temple and onto the lawn in front. Some even came out from under the lawn, so there must have been tunnels down there. All were dressed in the most amazing colours and they all added up to over 200 (not good with numbering crowds . . .) performers. Then this very impressive dude (??? should have brought the program) came out onto the top of the temple, and with smoke billowing behind him, he invited us all to follow (with joy) the troupe to the main square for the next celebration.
Now, a word about this festival and the crowds that are involved. There are people everywhere, so when the call went out to move, it was a like a wave of people rushing to the next place. Although people
were abviously hurrying to get a decent spot for the next bit, the crowd was quite calm, just a little overwhelming. We found an ok spot, but you get pretty wedged in. Another thing to note, is the fact that Peruvians are short. Really short. We all seem like giants over here. This is handy when you are a few people back. For the first time in Kath´s life, she wasn´t looking at the back of someones shoulders or head. We had to wait a long time before the performers came to the stage. They performed a few dances and performed a blessing. We didn´t see it all, as we were getting very hungry and we were all still very tired.
After a yummy lunch break, we then followed the huge crowds up the mountain Sacsayhuamán, about an hour walk away. Along the walk up there, there were stalls and a real party atmosphere. It was also very hot, so some of the refreshments did start to look good. Guinea pig on a stick, anyone? We finally got to the top and the sight of so many people was unbelievable. Everyone in Peru seemed to be there. Half of
the fun of the festival was actually just being amongst the crowd and experiencing it all. We were unable to find a spot on the mountain to sit (blame the lunch break), so again, we were standing. The ceremony started and it was really interesting to watch, particularly the formations that they made and the meaning behind all sections. We thought that we may head off back down the hill before it finished, as we didn´t fancy rushing down the hill with such a huge crowd behind. As we were walking back, a big group of boys broke through a barivcade that was protecting the Inkan ruins and they all used them to sit on to get a better view. It was quite exciting, but even that seemed too exhausting, so we continued back down the hill. We missed the llama sacrifice, which is probably just as well. We have become very fond of them!
This was such a great way to end our time in Peru, which has been amazing. We have made some excellent friends and experienced a culture that is rich and in many ways, far more complex than ours. It has been really interesting to
see the way that the Quechian culture has thrived, and the way that colonial influences have just been integrated, rather than dominating. Peru is a fascinating country and we only got a chance to see a small section. Our bad luck.
But further adventures call!
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Yvonne
non-member comment
Europe and Sth America
Hi Girls, what an amazing trip! Arrived home on Friday 27th. I enjoyed my 4 weeks traversing Italy to Scotland but it was nothing as high as this in the adventure stakes. Have always wanted to go to the Inca and Aztec ruins, but now not so sure this old girl would make it. I know how much time it takes to do the diary and pics, good on you for keeping it up - makes for an enjoyable read and helps us share your experience. Lots of love xx