Machu Picchu

---

"How is it possible to feel nostalgia for a world I never knew?"

That quote is one of my all-time favorites, and by far my favorite one from the movie Motorcycle Diaries. I've often had that thought in mind while in Mexico, exploring the remains of pyramids and civilizations from long ago, wondering what life was like when the civilizations existed and were prosperous and even how their downfall really happened. But today it was even more perfect as that quote was said when Che Guevara was visiting Machu Picchu on his trip through South America on his motorcycle.

And so today, I too was at Machu Picchu, wondering the same. There was a feeling of nostalgia for the Incas that once lived there. The ruins are so incredible and the mystery that still surrounds the reason for the civilization's existence is even more incredible. Was the site only for royal priests and nobles? For an entire group of people? And why wasn't it found by the Spaniards? What would've happened if it had been discovered when Pizarro and his men arrived in Peru? Why was it abandoned? All those questions and many more filled my mind today as Anne and I hiked through the incredible ruins.

We were up at 4:15am this morning to be out of our hostel in time to have a good spot in line for the first bus up the mountain. And it paid off, as we were on that first bus! Excitement filled the bus and cameras were out and ready as we started the squiggly trek up. Rain greeted our bus at the top, so many of us were forced to pay for horribly overpriced ponchos, yours truly included. But it was worth it, as we were quickly in the entrance gate and scrambling for the first glance of the ruins. The clouds and fog added such a mystical ambiance, yet didn't totally cover all the ruins. Anne and I were speechless at our first glance. Truly speechless. It was gorgeous and perfect and so awesome. It's weird because everyone always sees the classical Machu Picchu shot and it always looks the same - old stone buildings on a lush green grassy area, with two mountain peaks in the background. And suddenly it was all in front of us!

We headed up a trail with all the other tourists to get that classic photo shot, but the clouds and fog moved and changed so quickly that we decided to wait until it cleared off later in the day. So we spent the next few hours exploring and taking pictures, sometimes on our own and then other times with the guided group we joined. It was hardly 10am before we already felt like we'd seen so much. We exited the park long enough to re-fuel with our meager lunches of baguettes, cheese, and drinkable yogurt. Re-energized again, we decided to conquer Wayna Picchu, the large mountain peak behind the ruins. It was a tough, steep climb, but well worth the view that we discovered at the top! We just couldn't get enough of the mountains and clouds and the new view of Machu Picchu. The weather seemed to change as much as the clouds - we were cold and bundled up, hot and down to tank tops, then trying to cover up again as it started raining. The fickle weather never bothered us, though, as we were still at Machu Picchu and so blissful. After our Wayna Picchu hike, our legs were telling us no more, but it was only 2pm, so we said "Inca Sun Gate here we come!" That climb was a little rougher, mainly because we were so tired from the first. But we continued on and finally got to the top, which is the point where those who walk the Inca Trail first see Machu Picchu at the end of their 4 day trek. I have the utmost respect for those who conquer that trail, as our small portion of it up to the Sun Gate proved to be difficult enough. I can't imagine doing 4 days of that!!! My camera battery was dying once we were at the top, which was a sign that I had taken WAY too many pictures today (I'm embarrassed to even say how many....), but I ended up having just enough for the last perfect sight at the end of a perfect day - a beautiful rainbow was peaking through some of the peaks and clouds and once again, Anne and I were speechless. We knew it was the perfect way to finish the day, so we climbed back down the mountain, said our good-byes to our beloved Machu Picchu, and got back on the bus to bring us back here to Aguas Calientes.

To top off an already impeccable birthday, Anne arranged a surprise for me while I was in the bathroom at a restaurant here in town. We were just going to have hot chocolate and then head back to our hostel to crash, but as I was sitting at the table alone, thinking about what a perfect day it had been, I suddenly heard many voices start singing "Happy Birthday!" Anne was standing there with them, slying smiling with a delicious looking piece of cake in her hand, candle included. The restaurant staff finished the song and then started into "Las Mañanitas," the traditional Mexican birthday song that I love (David, that´s the "kee-kee-ka-ree!!!" song)! Perfect. The entire day was perfect.

Tomorrow evening we will catch the train back to Cuzco, where we'll be for two more nights. We have to be out of our hostel by 9am tomorrow, so we'll be visiting a museum here in town about the ruins and then we'll attempt to conquer Jason's highly requested climb up the mountain across from Machu Picchu. I'm a little nervous about the ladder section though.... But I'm excited to scramble up into the sky again, provided my body doesn't hate me in the morning.

I hope to get some pictures up at some point, but it's been a little more difficult than I thought. Hopefully soon though! Thanks to all of you who sent some birthday love my way today. I really appreciate it and am happy to have each of you in my life!!!

---