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Day 5 - Tuesday 7th Feb
The Facts:
Tour of Tierra del Fuego Parque Nacionale
Embarkation of Akademik Shokalsky

The longer version:
Today we got to meet the remainder of or group we would be spending the next 3 nights with as we all dined at Breakfast. We identified one younger couple who would give us a running for youngest on the boat
We met with the group for a tour to Tierra del Fuego PN. Our tour leader was an interesting lady who went by the name of Crazy Horse. She fitted this description very well, and to demonstrate this, as we went passed some horses in a paddock and she pronounced that these were her family members and then she attempted to neigh! We also spent 45 minutes on the tour sitting in the bus waiting for people who she thought were missing because she failed to do a head count. But the end of her tour we were all ready to cancel out Antarctic trip if she was coming on it. Fortunately she was not.
We did enjoy a traditional Argentinean BBQ of lamb and other meats cooked over a fire and this was just the start of the fattening up process that continued for 3 weeks!

We had an hour or so to do last minute shopping in Ushuaia- purchasing postcards, stamps, a hat, snacks and rubber gloves for the trip.
Finally, down by the dock we headed onto the Akademik Shoksly a Russian ice strengthened ship which was to be our home for 3 weeks. We were met by Nick, an Australian Biologist, with Phil the Kiwi Hotel Manager not far behind!
The rooms were good, basic, but had everything one would want.
We sailed out the Beagle Channel in smooth seals, with birds flying around the ship, and some Magellanic Penguins in the water. It was only know that we appreciated how much the people on the boat enjoyed their bird watching.


Day 6 - Wednesday 8th Feb
The Facts:
First day at sea.
Activities:
Seabirds: Vagabonds of the Oceans
Wildlife Watch
Zodiac briefing and IATTO Guidelines for Wilderness Visitors

The longer version:
Today was spent getting our sea legs. Some accomplished this with ease (ie Roger), other s had a few more problems (ie Karen). The high turnout for breakfast on the relatively smooth seas soon was followed by dashes from the dining room and green / white faces. A bonding experience for many. Meals were fantastic. 3 courses minimum with 2-3 options for mains and entrees.
Tonight Karen made friends with the doctor who provided some good strong medication for altitude sickness. This was to be a virtue with the added bonus of drowsiness on the long days at sea!

Day 7- Thursday 9th Feb
The Facts:
Landings on the Falkland Islands Carcass Island and Westpoint Island
Close encounters with Magellanic, Rockhopper Penguins and Black Browed Albatross.

The longer version:
Today we made our first Zodiac cruises and landings on some remote islands on the western edge of the Falkland Islands (see map below).
The first landing was in light drizzle on Carcass Island, but on the beach we encountered some Gentoo Penguins, and just off the beach some Magellanic Penguins which have burrows. Walking through the long grass and on the rocky beach we also encountered countless other types of ducks and sea birds. Stopping for morning tea at a farmhouse for some delicious cakes was also great! They had a Friesian cow out the back for their milk which they used in all the cakes and cookies.
Our next stop was Westpoint Island, where we encountered a pod of dolphins who skimmed along and were bow riding along as we cruised to shore in the zodiac.
A one-mile walks lead us to the Devils nose and an amazing place where nesting together were Rockhopper penguins and Black Browed albatross. We were able to get within 5-m of all these birds without causing any disturbance thanks to the high tussock grass. We saw chicks and parents on the nests, parents flying in to feed the chicks, Rock hoppers doing what the do best (hopping from rock to rock) and making their way up from the oceans a 100vertical m to their nests and chicks. An amazing sight and a great taste for things to come.


Day 8- Friday 10th Feb
The Facts:
Visit to Stanley Capital of the Falklands
Back to sea
Lecture: Falkland Island Birds

The longer version:
Today we dropped anchor in Port Stanley and cruised into town for the morning. We went past the memorial for the Falklands war, many old ships that had been shipwrecked, and a kelp factory. A visit to the museum indicated that we had gained some sea legs as we were having a slight sway in a stationary building! Walking through the streets amongst the pretty gardens with bright flowers we noticed that every car was a 4WD, and there was a 99% chance that the car was a Range Rover. Roads are not sealed out of Stanley and there are many months of bleak weather where only 4WD could be used.
We had lunch at ‘The Globe’ a very British pub serving Fosters amongst other International beers. The pub came complete with prices that were a bit out of this world as well.
Back onto the boat after lunch, and out to sea. More sea birds following the boat. From the boat we also got to view the lovely beaches aruondthe Falklands where there is minimal public access due to the land mines placed in the area during the Falklands war.
Interesting but not unexpected fact: Argentina is the closest country to the Falklands, but only Lan Chile is allowed to fly in.

Day 9 - Saturday 11th Feb
The Facts:
At sea
Lectures: Featherd Fish or Flightless Birds 1: The Penguins of the SubAntarctic
Pinnipeds 1: SubAntarctic Seals

The

Black Browed Albatross Chick

longer version:
At sea. The excitement came in the afternoon after much time spent looking for the elusive whales, and with many spouts being spotted far away, we had some adventurous Fin and Sei whales come a bit closer and give us a show. We hoped this was a good omen for what we were to see.


Day 10- Sunday 12th Feb
The Facts:
At Sea
Shag Rocks on the way to South Georgia
Crossing the Antarctic Convergence
More whales
Lectures: A Tale of a Whale
IATTO Briefing
Whaling History of the Southern Ocean

The longer version:
All excitement today was about the possible sighting of land! Well, the small islands known as Shag Rocks, dragons teeth anyway. These islands were in the middle of nowhere, show up on some maps and are like the teeth of dragons, surrounded by flying birds that look like mosquitos covering the islands. We were also fortunate to see a Humpback whale and calf in this area.

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