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Cotopaxi Volcano
The palm tree, visible in the foreground, highlights Ecuador´s natural diversity...snow caps in the tropics!After my flight from Atlanta was cancelled due to volcanic ashfall in Ecuador, I made it onto the next day’s flight (pleading to be pushed up the standby list!) I was amazed that 2 of my 3 bags made it on the flight with me, and miracle of miracles, the 3rd arrived the following afternoon!
My first night back in Quito I stayed at the home of a former Atlanta student. Pauley is now working at the Ministry of Social Welfare, researching access for handicapped people. I awakened in her apartment to a magnificent view of the snow-capped Cayambe volcano! All that day as I was driving around Quito, I caught breathtaking views of Cotopaxi volcano as well. Crystal clear skies and perfect weather!
That first day in Quito was jam packed! In the early am I went to pick up some stuff that I had left at Veronica’s place and as I was driving her to work, I was stopped by the police for lack of vehicle inspection. (She jumped out and hopped a cab to get to work on time!) Since my truck is registered in Guayaquil, I had been told I needed to do
The Iliniza Mountains
It´s a rare, clear day when both Iliniza norte and sur are out in full splendor! the inspection there, but these guys said I could have it done in Quito, so I decided to do it right away. First I had to pay at a specific bank (45 minute wait at Servipagos!) then miraculously I found the inspection center and they were extremely efficient, in and out in 30 minutes. Morci passed his tests!
I finished in time to make it to my gynecologist appt. I have an Ecuadorian insurance policy & the company’s main clinics are in Quito & Guayaquil. I can see any doctor, but it makes sense to use their clinics ($2.50 co-pay) and lab facilities which are right next door. That same day I was able to schedule a full blood screen for hormone & thyroid levels PLUS a mammogram & a sonagram (total cost to me for all the tests, $4.40). It ends up that my thyroid levels are way too high; a logical explanation for why my hair has been falling out (scary nightmares about waking up bald!)
After the lab work, I still had time to pick up my recently arrived suitcase and make it down into the valley to have dinner with Shana. We
Welcome Committee at Malinga Pamba
Folks travelled on foot for hours to be there in the village when we arrived. See if you can guess who Debbie & Brian are! departed the following morning for Banos. Ahhh, to let down and relax after the previous week of intense travel. I spent the next few days bathing in the hot springs, playing Scrabble, loving on Maxi dog (Chaco’s great grand-uncle), taking afternoon naps, eating good food, getting a nice pedicure (this gal in Banos always paints flowers on my big toe!). One morning I decided to try to beat the crowd and arrive right when the hot baths opened (4:30 am). I miscalculated - it was a national holiday and there were already 3 busloads of local tourists waiting for the place to open! I found the least crowded bath and soaked and stretched as dawn broke. It got so crowded later on, the pools were packed! Many people get drunk on holidays, so Shana dubbed the baths “hangover soup” that day!
Pauley and her folks arrived in Banos the last night I was there, so I drove up to their posh hotel on the hill (great city views!) and had dinner with them. We all made plans to meet up again on the coast. It was fun to have dinner with them again at Alandaluz.
After
Bed & Breakfast
We had to disturb this roosting chicken to extract our bedding! decompressing in Banos, I drove back to Quito to meet up with one of the Engineers Without Borders. Debbie had come on an unofficial visit this time, and she brought along her son. Driving from Quito to the village we again had crystal clear skies, Cotopaxi volcano looming huge and the spiky, craggy Iliniza mountains beckoning us onwards. The roads were so much better than when I went in the springtime. It hadn’t rained and the village president had gotten the provincial gov’t to bring in a grader. The smoothest driving I’ve ever had to the village!
Of course we were welcomed with big hugs, and I was required to make an “arrival speech”. We settled into our rooms upstairs after chasing a roosting hen off the pile of linens. If we had allowed her to lay her egg there, we’d have had a real “Bed and Breakfast”! It was great to have some relaxed, less frenetic time in the village. When we go with groups of volunteers, it’s always pretty hectic.
On my last village visit I had agreed to be Godmother of two little girls who will be baptized in Nov. While in the US, I
Janeth,Esther & Hortensia Otto
Hortensia looks like barely a girl, but already has 5 children. These are her 2 older daughters. The two youngest are my goddaughters. bought lots of clothes for all 5 kids in the family, and new shoes for the little girls (they fit perfectly!) I enjoyed spending time with the family - watching the kids all try on their new clothes, little Blanca or Cristina climbing into my lap for a cuddle. Twice in two days I had to eat double breakfasts, since my goddaughters’ family always plied me with food, yet I was expected to eat at the village president’s house as well.
During our last visit I had taken some photos for a woman who was losing her land to mudslides. I made prints and sent them along to her so she could get her daughter in Spain to help out. This visit, Dona Fanny thanked me by making an hour-long walk uphill to gift me with a bucket of milk and a half dozen fresh eggs (each of her six hens had laid an egg for me that day!).
One day while Debbie was walking the water lines, I drove Brian to the nearby town of Isinlivi, along with 3 moms and their sick, germy babies in the back seat! En route, Brian implored me to
Looking at photos of the US
After helping the village president (standing to my left in white shirt) learn to upload fotos from his new digital camera (thanks Pam!) I shared pictures of my recent US visit...a world away from their lives!! make a pit stop. I dropped him off and continued around the curve so he’d have some privacy. All the women wanted to know why I’d left him there, so I told them that he was “irrigating” the countryside- giggles all around. Not 15 minutes later, one of the kids riding in the truck bed banged on the window and yelled unabashedly, I’ve gotta piss!!
While the women were at the health clinic, Brian and I visited Jean’s hostel Llullullama, bringing bleu cheese for the manager. A bizarre looking dog caught my eye. One of his eyeballs was half sky blue. I was pointing it out to Brian when a woman who was walking by grabbed my arm and explained that the dog had a cat’s eye. She walked along with us, refusing to let go of my arm! Then, we went to the woodworking shop and loaded up with free sawdust for composting toilet. They were grateful to us for helping them clean the floor, and the folks in the back of my truck had a cushy ride home!
We spent several days in the village of Malingua Pamba before Debbie and Brian accompanied me
Quilotoa Crater
The clouds lifted so we could admire this collapsed caldera. If I look a bit rotund it´s because I just spent 2 months in the US!! down to the coast. After a short detour to visit Quilotoa crater, we took a route through the Andes that I had never driven. A stunning road carried us downward alongside a rushing river. We all enjoyed the changing scenery & greenery as we dropped to lower altitude, and it was nice to have my gas, food and lodging paid for as I made my way back home!
We spent the night in Quevedo on the way down to the coast, a town famous for its large Chinese population, so we had great Chinese food for dinner. The next day we stopped in Montecristi, famous for Panama hats and other handicrafts. After a quick grocery stop in Manta, we drove down to my house via the coast road. Stopping for dinner in Puerto Lopez, I had a quick reunion with Tamara and Chaco (how I love that full body wag!!) She was not ready to hand him over to me yet - so she kept him during her last week in Ecuador.
The following day Debbie & Brian went whale watching and to visit Isla de la Plata (aka Poor Man’s Galapagos), so Tamara & Chaco
Dropping down from the Andes
Alongside a rushing river, the road twists past picturesque bridges like this one. & I spent the day together. It felt great to swim in the Agua Blanca lagoon after lots of driving, and we had lunch at a brand new restaurant in Lopez. Run by a French guy, it has a really creative menu including things like CousCous, Quinoa, & Risotto. Makes a nice change to the standard fish & rice fare most other places offer. What else is new in "Lope" since I left? Broadband internet access is arriving and one place actually has WiFi! And, all the streets are under construction (well, that´s not really new) but they may actually get finished before the year is out!!
I was SO glad to get back to my house! Remembering how much work it was to move back in the last time I came back, this time I called Dexy in advance and asked if she could help me get the kitchen cleaned and set up. Since it stays locked while the cabana is being rented, there were 4 months of dirt. Dexy stayed until 9:00 that night helping me unpack and settle back in. After so many months without access to a kitchen, it felt wonderful to cook again.
Bye Bye Mama T
Chaco says good-bye to Tamara, his other mommy. I think the farewell was harder on her than it was on him! I love that I can step out my door and find many things I need in the garden (basil, lemon grass, chili peppers, etc.)
While my kitchen was closed up for so long, a number of critters took up residence. There is one especially persistent and wily mouse - he’s really quite cute, light brown with sparkling eyes. In recent days, however, I’ve begun referring to him as RAT BASTARD. Every night I hear him banging around, knocking things over. Chaco’s dog food was his first challeng - despite the thick plastic bag within a few nights he’d chewed a hole and chowed down. Once he’s gorged, he leaves a telltale trail of turds which look remarkably like the nuggets of Chaco’s dried dog food! I have systematically stored everything in jars, plastic bins or in the fridge -- but now I’m finding nibble marks in my bar of soap! When I do manage to see him crawling on my countertops, I don’t have the heart to actually try to kill him so I just chase him away, wielding the nearest pot or pan or wooden spoon. And the next night he is back, searching in vain.
Working at the Tagua Kiosk
Here I am, selling handicrafts. Marianne started the business 9 yrs ago, and I´m filling in for now. I really enjoy the weather here during the overcast, drizzly garua season. It makes for deliciously cool sleeping weather, and I’ve even lit a fire a few times. How luxurious to lay in bed watching the dancing flames light up my stone and shell fireplace mosaic. The annual garua, from June to September, is caused by the effects of the icy cold Humboldt current which comes up from Antarctica, bringing with it the humpbacked whales who chow down and give birth in our warm Equatorial waters. Last year during garua season we had weeks on end without ever seeing the sun, but this year we have been blessed with sunny afternoons at least 3 or 4 times a week. I can hear the iguanas moving around as the sun breaks through, and from the rustling of leaves emerge scores of tiny green baby iguanas. My rooftop “pets”, Iggy & Juana have clearly been busy this year!!
As has happened before, arriving back in Puerto Lopez I hit the ground running. I accepted a job selling Tagua (vegetable ivory) handicrafts, . My friend Marianne is off in the states for a few months, so I agreed to cover
Handicrafts for Sale
A photo can´t begin to capture the beauty and detail of these carved vegetable ivory nuts (tagua). Note, mannequin butt! her kiosk in the artisan lane 4-5 nights a week. Since I had helped Marianne sell at cruise ship artisan fairs, I know the products. I am enjoying chatting with tourists (both foreign and Ecuadorian) and find that I´m quite good at sales. There are, however, a few down sides to working the kiosk. The neighbor on one side insists on angling his wares & his mannequin out in front of my kiosk. The first evening we exchanged some unpleasantries, but now we just carefully avoid each other. He listens to Bob Marley ad nauseum - could be worse, like the blaring salsa music on the other side, interspersed with earsplitting soap operas. A bar just across the way has Karaoke - and that is truly painful to hear. Do these people actually think they are singing well, or are they intentionally singing off key to be funny? The various food vendors make their way along the lane, hawking oranges, yuca bread, fried rice & more. The guy who sells the cheese empanadas comes around to take orders, then returns with the goods, piping hot and delicious. I´ve just started losing some of the weight I put on in the
Chaco on the Artisan Lane
Chaco makes friends wherever he goes. Here are his street buddies, Flaca & Sarnudo (Skinny & Mangy). US, so I have to be careful not to indulge too often.
Many of my former private students were waiting for my return and I was able to schedule my teaching times right away. I actually felt missed in Puerto Lopez - even the vegetable vendor at the market remarked that I’d been away. It was the longest conversation we’ve ever had! I waited a week to start teaching, so I could get the hang of the kiosk schedule first and juggle both jobs...but I ended up doing a lot of driving during that week.
First I took Tamara down to the airport in Guayaquil (3 1/2 hrs each way). Coming back home was intense...I will NEVER do that drive in the dark again! Then, I accepted a transfer to Manta airport (2 hrs north) and took the opportunity to have my truck washed & detailed. I also drove up to Portoviejo (provincial capitol) with the 3 teachers from the little school where I am godmother (Escuela 24 de Mayo en Las Cabanas de Ayampe to which many of you have made donations). An almost 2 hr drive each way to the Ministry of Education, only
Beatriz & Chaco
A lovely excursion with Chaco & Beatriz, the head teacher at my adopted school. to find out that the files have to go through Quito. We are hoping to get fiscal support for the school, so that books and uniforms will be provided and teachers´ salaries will be paid by the government. Meanwhile, I volunteer twice a week teaching English there and spend time with Beatriz and her family on the weekends.
Now, I´ve just completed my first week of teaching - 12 hrs a week in Puerto Lopez and 5 hrs a week near my home. With 15-20 hrs of week at the kiosk, it´s enough! I still have time to walk and romp on the beach with Chaco at least 4-5x a week, twice a day when I have a light teaching load. Chaco LOVES running on the beach - he becomes a wildman, chasing after birds, crabs, sticks, his tail! He leaps and trots, races with the grace of a panther. He whips himself into an excited frenzy, then comes home and crashes. As I type this he´s at my feet, reeking of dead fish. Today he found something to roll in so when we get home he´ll be coming into the shower with me. He protests a bit
Chaco at Poza Azul
Loyal readers will recognize this spot from a previous blog. Lava rocks form a natural pool at the ocean´s edge. Breathtaking! at first, but quickly settles into enjoying the warm water and full body massage!
I now have a dog-sitter for Chaco for while I´m teaching or if I need to take a long day trip. He stays at Hostal Villa Colombia with his buddy YoYo, a 10 yr old Golden Retriever. The owners of teh Hostal rave that Chaco has made YoYo young again! While I´m selling in the kiosk Chaco comes along and keeps me company. He has a whole different set of friends on the artisan lane.
In addition to exercising more (which Chaco and I are doing) I vowed to spend more time over in the reception area of Alandaluz to meet some of the tourists. Both times I´ve ventured over there so far I´ve met really interesting folks, one of whom is an American realtor who´s selling coastal Ecuadorian properties and is going to represent me. The realtor I have been working with the past year has found two potential buyers, but both came in with lowball offers. I´m in no hurry, I´m going to hold out for what I believe my property is worth.
A couple of quirky things
Mouse-proofed Kitchen
Tightly capped jars store everything to keep the rats at bay. I love my new bamboo cutlery tower (far right). I wanted to share: People here believe that if your pet sneezes, you will have an unexpected visitor. hmm - Also, pink-eye is called "Patada China" - a Chinese kick! Here´s something I love - Scott toilet paper is using its mascot - cute, soft labrador pup - to educated people about how much paper to use. Printed on each roll, every 8-10 sheets, is a little pup holding a stop sign. PARE! Stop right there, use no more!
So, all´s going well except for a few things. I´ve been unable to get my Norton Antivirus program (purchased online)up and running, and in the interim my NEW laptop already has a virus (argh!) I´m taking it up to Manta to the IT doctor next week. I´m also still trying to get my truck´s CD player fixed -- after a technician worked on it for 3 hrs it now plays, but just the disc that´s in there. If I pop it out it won´t track and read another disc, so I had to choose carefully what I wanted to hear over and over until I can get it fixed properly. I picked a music mix that I created called
Chaco Shares his Seat
Juliana, Gabriela & Daniela love to ride in the truck, especially when Chaco is along! "Gratitude & Prayer" because it has a wide variety of musical styles. The third thing that needs adjusting is my back - I´m being for sciatica by an American chiropractor living in Manta. I know that my increased walking is contributing to the pain & numbness, but I´m also doing more yoga and using an ice pack. It´s not debilitating, but it´s uncomfortable. I KNOW that taking off some weight would help a lot too.
So, now you have the update -- probably more than you´d ever want to know about my life! I plan to stay here on the coast for 8 more weeks before going up to the mtns to meet another group of volunteer engineers. 2009 is still wide open for visitors! So far I only have Eva coming from Austria in January. Book your rooms early!!!
Best to all my readers. The monthly writing of this blog is a great chance for me to review and reflect. Thanks for reading. Jill
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Danielle
non-member comment
Hi
Well, never a dull moment for you Jill! Thanks for the update - I can't seem to get all your travels straight in my head, even after reading; you always seem to be on the move! That mouse is lucky to have chosen your kitchen - I'm not so nice to mine!