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Published: October 1st 2023
Bonez & CiCi
CiCi and Bonez have been friends since they were little pups. Bonezie was very ill but his mommy had to make an emergency trip to the US...so Nursie CiCi and I took care of him for two weeksIt's been a relatively hectic two months, mostly because I've been teaching a lot. Two afternoons a week I teach English classes in my dining room (nine students in their 20's and 30's), Two more afternoons are the Spanish conversation class (a group of expats who have lived in Ecuador anywhere between one and twelve years, ages 32 - 75). Scroll to all the way to the end to see pics of these two groups of learners. I've been teaching more steadily during the past six months. Aside from some much-needed income, it also provides some rhythm to my otherwise leisurely existence. Although I prefer teaching in person, I still have two online students on Sunday mornings! I still schedule half- to full-day Scrabble dates with Shana two or three times a week. I enjoy preparing special lunches on the days that she and Maricarmen come over to eat. Two mornings a week I walk up to the El Salado thermal baths and spend an hour or two swimming, excercising and socializing.
Once of CiCi's favorite doggie pals was Bonez. They'd known each other since they were one and two years old. Poor Bonez
Farewell Bonez
When Bonezie's parents got back from the US, they made the difficult decision to put him to sleep. Our wonderful, compassionate vets came to their farm (40 min drive + 40 min hike) had gotten all lumpy and bumpy in his advanced age (10 is old for a big dog) and the cancer was so widespread that it was no use removing any more tumors. The day that Bonezie's mommy Del had to unexpectedly and urgently hurry to New Orleans due to a family tragedy, Bonez awakened with his leg completely swollen from foot to armpit. Del called me from the vets' clinic (Mayra and Fernando are our wonderful young vets), saying that she was going to have to leave Bonez there for the two weeks she planned to be away. Wihtout hesitation, I offered for him to come and stay with me and CiCi and it SO eased her mind to know that he would be here with us. Alas, the entire time that his mommy was away, Bonez could barely manage to keep any food down. The vets were incredibly supportive and helped me care for him as best I could. We tried to get some stomach-coating pepto-bismol-type meds down his throat with a syringe, but most of it ended splattered on my walls and rugs.OY! I gave him cold gel pack massages twice a day to bring down the swelling
CiCi Saying Good-Bye
Bonez was buried on a beautiful hillside at the edge of the jungle. CiCi looked down into his grave and then began to run in circles and bark like crazy. One friend said she saw Bonez's spirt rise & play with CiCi. and drain his lymphs. The vet had me send her photos of his vomit so I didn't have to bring him in as often. Now that's an interesting series of photos!
Unfortunately, even after his mommy returned and took him home to their farm, 40 minutes from Baños, his condition continued to decline. The day after CiCi and I got back from our trip to the beach (read on for fotos and memories from that trip) we drove down for Bonezie´s farewell. The incredibly compassionate vets also came to their difficult-to-get-to farm - you need someone with a four-wheel drive truck to bring you the last 10 minutes. Well, once the vets arrived at the go-down, they had no phone signal to call for a lift so they hiked the last 40 minutes to the house. It was a loving, peaceful departure for Bonez, with his daddy Vic playing classical guitar to serenade him over the rainbow bridge. We all walked out to a lush green hillside where a grave had been dug. CiCi was interested in everything that was happening (see photo). The whole experience of caring for Bonez and
Tacos by Gabo
My Chef friend, Gabo, moved back to Baños after living on the coast a few years. To help him jump-start his business again, I hosted a Taco Night, inviting 20 diners. Delicioso!!
seeing him off made me feel grateful that CiCi is so healthy. She's been with me for eight years so far, and I can only hope I will have another eight wonderful years with her!
My Venezuelan friend, Chef Gabo, came back to Baños with his German girlfriend after spending a year or so living on the coast. I helped them look for an apartment to rent. His restaurant, Alto Caribe, was a favorite among the expats - he's a very good cook and a really nice guy. He and I devised a plan to let former clients and potential new clients know that he was back. I hosted an all-you-can eat taco night at my house. For a 'suggested donation' of $10, each guest got a welcome drink, tacos and fixings galore, and Gabo's famous brownies and cakes...dangerously delicious! I invited about 20 people and they all came, some of them bringing friends. It was an amazing turnout and Gabo was thrilled with the outcome.
Alas, Gabo and Simone only ended up staying two months. He had managed to line up a restaurant job near
Bamboo Flute Music
Wilson (aka Caballo) provided lovely, lively music at our taco dinner evening. Shana appreciated the good food, the good company, and the entertainment! Barcelona, so they were off to Spain. Before they left Baños I hosted another gathering. This time Chef Gabo Venezuelan arepas (like white corn gorditas in Tex-Mex-Lexicon) and his famous desserts for sale. We set up a garage sale in my office space where the guests could buy his used cooking utensils and other things that he wasn't planning to take over the ocean. On departure day he gifted me everything that hadn't sold; most of it got donated to Merazonia Animal Rescue & Rehabilitation Center for their volunteer kitchen. Later on in this entry you will meet Frank, who started Merazonia, and his lovely family - they have become very dear friends.
For several months, Ron and I had been talking about taking a trip to the coast together to celebrate his 70th birthday. Ron is legally blind and due to prostate issues can no longer ride long-distance public buses...they don't have restrooms and the drivers seldom stop. I love the story Ron tells about going up to the driver's cubicle and unzipping his pants to emphasize the urgency of the issue! Only
then did the driver quickly pull over and everyone
Sunset in Olon
Ah! Pacific sunsets are a huge draw of visiting the beach! on the bus ran off to pee in a field! As the date for our coastal adventure drew near, Ron made the decision to move back to the coast (he had lived there before) and so he pared down his possessions to just a half-dozen suitcases and boxes that would fit in my car with one of the back seats laid flat. We had to leave space for CiCi on the other back seat! We packed the car the night before and set off in the early morning, planning on a rest stop every hour and a half or so as needed. It turned an 8-hour drive into a 10-hour journey, but we got to Salinas eventually. We stayed that night in an AirBnB and in the morning we unloaded all of Ron's stuff at a friend's place.
Ron stayed on in Salinas and I headed north an hour and a half to Olon to catch up with Amy and Julie.The next morning I enjoyed a wonderful beach walk with the gals and CiCi had a ball, even daring to splash in the surf a bit this time! Six months earlier when CiCi
Ron & I are famous!
Again i was invited to stay in the cabañas I used to own - Vivi and Javier were excellent hosts and asked us to pose for a publicity shot! and I went ot the coast, she'd been terrified of the waves. Amy & Julie & I had a fabulous dinner at the amazing Indian restaurant in Olon. After a couple of days, Ron made his way on public buses to meet up with us. It was important and reassuring for him to feel like he'll be able to travel independently for short bus trips. As he pointed out that since there's really just one road up the coastline, it's almost impossible to get lost.
As part of Ron's birthday gift I offered to cover the cost of his lodging for the rest of the week. It wasn't a hardship since the people who bought my cabañas have always been incredibly generous to me, and once again they offered me a cabaña for free, asking only that I cover the cleaning costs. The cabañas at Tranquilidad (ex-Alandaluz) are roomy enough that Ron and I each had our own space and the lovely young managers, Vivi and Javi, moved a fridge into the cabin for us. We had use of a communal kitchen and though I didn't really use it since I mostly ate
Supper at D'Jimmy's
Outdoor cabañas right on the beach, exquisite seafood, good friends. Ron said that his fish in peanut sauce was one of the best meals he'd ever had in Ecuador! out, inviting friends I wanted to take out for a meal. Ron was looking for beach relaxation, so enjoyed staying around the resort and fixed his own meals.
My old friend Marianne had come down from Puerto Lopez to stay at Tranquilidad while we were there, so I got to spend more time with her. The first evening Marianne, Ron & I went into the next fishing village (Las Tunas) and enjoyed a meal at D'Jimmy's seafood place, right on the beach. Nothing like swinging in a string hammock at the water's edge while you wait for your fresh fish to be prepared.Such fresh, delicious, clean food! Ron said his fish filet in peanut sauce was one of the best meals he'd ever eaten in Ecuador!
The next day Ron and I went for a long, early morning stroll with CiCi. Since it was high tide, beach walking wasn't as pleasant, so we walked along the old air strip that follows the coastline. So many memories came flooding back of my many many walks along that same route 15 years earlier with Chaco, my beloved brindle
Pizza w/Freddy & Family
My goddaughter Milena and her three younger siblings came to visit me in Baños earlier this year. Now it was my turn to visit them in Puerto Lopez. boxer-pointer pooch. The whole area is filled with reminiscences, going all the way back to the very first time I visited Alandaluz in 1989.
I was glad to be able to visit with my goddaughter and her family. Her given name is Yibely (since the Y is pronounced like a J her family's nickname for her is GiGi) but since she started high school she's begun using her middle name, Milena, which I think is much more beautiful! I worked with her Dad, Freddy, for over a dozen years at Hosteria Mandala and was tapped to be her godmother when she graduated from preschool 12 years ago. As we arrived at Nantú for pizza, her younger sister, Dana shyly handed me a drawing with a carefully written letter. She thanked me for their fun visit to Baños, but said that she felt bad leaving me all alone when they left to go back home. Aww...so sweet! Most folks here can't fathom why someone would want to live alone - it's just not in the culture. I have enjoyed living alone for nearly half of my life...and besides, I have CiCi to keep me
Lunch w/my Adopted Family
I've known Beatriz and her family for over 15 years. Her younger sister is now a mom! At Wipeout Cabana we ate seafood in coconut sauce and in passionfruit sauce. Delish! company!
The next day I invited my adopted family to go out for lunch. Beatriz teaches in Riobamba, just an hour and a half from Baños, but she had gone down to the coast in order to vote in her hometown of Salango. Sunday, August 22nd was the first round of voting for the presidential elections (the runoff vote will be held on October 15th). All Ecuadorian citizens are required to vote or they must pay a fine. Citizens must show a votation card to do things like register a vehicle, open a bank account, travel out of the country, etc. I am not required to vote; I'm a permanent resident (like a green card holder in the US) and I've not applied for Ecuadorian citizenship.
We went to lunch at Wipeout Cabaña, a restaurant run by Byron and his mother Mama Meche. They both worked at Hostería Alandaluz and I met them 20 years ago when I came down for a visit in 2003. Mama Meche is an amazing cook, and at Wipeout she has replicated some of the unique recipes from Alandaluz (which no
Ron's Bday Luncheon
Gathering with good friends who enjoy seeing each other whenever I come to town! At Comida con Raices we enjoyed good food and even better company. longer exists). The encocado (seafood in coconut sauce) was served in coconut shells and the passion fruit seafood dish was served in bamboo. The ubiquitous patacones (smashed, fried plantain discs) were divine! I can't count how many times I'd been invited for lunch at this family's home between 2006 and 2013, and I'm always glad to be able to return the favor and treat them to an elegant meal, somewhere that they wouldn't ordinarily go.
The night of Ron's actual birthday, I took him up the hill to Azuluna at sunset. Though he can hardly see at all,, the changing light and the ambiance of the place was not lost on him. The following day I gathered a group of friends for a luncheon in the back patio of a new restaurant...nothing elegant but really good food. I saw some folks I hadn't seen since 'pre-pandemia' (Ever notice how these days our timeline of life sometimes divides itself into pre-pandemic and post-pandemic?) and the gaggle of gals who live in nearby towns who claim they only ever see each other when I come visit! There was a joyous spirit as everyone toasted the
Julie Says Bye-Bye
My dear friend and yoga buddy getting ready to return to the US for good. She was CiCi's dogsitter several times. Here she's bidding her canine buddy farewell. cumpleañero (the birthday boy). I had ordered a special cake from Doña Marianita, the wife of the taxi driver I counted on when I worked at the hotel. She made a moist fig cake with caramel filling which was thoroughly enjoyed by all!
I took Ron up to Agua Blanca and he enjoyed a Palo Santo Oil massage while I took a swim in the warm spring fed sulphur lagoon...one of my favorite places on the planet to swim! Marianne did her requisite full body mud mask ritual and CiCi ran around and played with the local goats. A good time was had by all. We packed a lot of fun into just a few days! Then it was time to head back down the coast. I had planned the dates of the trip to coincide with Julie's departure from Guayaquil. I dropped Ron off, picked Julie up and we were on our way. En route down the coast we stopped at my favorite antique shop (I just can't control myself) and I found some really cool blue bottles. They now reside on a high ledge in my bathroom against the glass block
With Rosa & the Pups
In Guayaquil CiCi and I stayed with Rosa (cousin of my NY friend Eddie) and her two spoiled pugs, Frida Sofía and Bruna María. CiCi behaved like a princess! with light shining through them. Eternally grateful to Google Maps for helping me navigate in, around, through Guayaquil...a nightmare to drive in this city! We dropped Julie's baggage off at the Airport Suites and we said our good-byes as I dropped her off at a handicraft market for her last minute gift shopping.
I had helped Julie book her taxi transfer to the airport...even after a number of years in Ecuador she's still hesitant about her Spanish, especially via phone! Since her flight was scheduled for 6:00 am, the taxi was scheduled to pick her up at 3:00 am. I had found this taxi service via recommendations on facebook from other expats flying out of Guayaquil. This guy was so thorough...at 10:00 pm he sent a photo of the driver who was coming and a photo of his vehicle (just to make sure she got in the right car, I suppose!) My phone pinged again around 3:30 with a photo of Julie walking into the airport terminal, pulling her suitcases behind her with a message that said, 'passenger delivered safely to airport'.
The Suites where Julie
Rest Stop View
Crossing the Andes between Guayaquil and Baños I had to stop for a glimpse of this breathtaking view (and to use the restroom). I felt like I was above the clouds! stayed did not accept pets, so CiCi and I stayed with an old friend. Rosa is the cousin of my New York friend, Eddie whom I met in 1989 in Grenoble, France! I was able to park my car in a neighbor's garage. In Guayaquil you would never even think of leaving your car out on the street! Rosa and her sister made me feel so welcome, and their yappy little pugs, Frida Sofía and Bruna María were very excited about having CiCi as a visitor. They had fixed me up a comfortable guest room that even had a dog bed for CiCi! It was wonderful to see them again - it had been more than five years since our last visit! Rosa commented that CiCi was so well behaved, she must have gone to finishing school in Paris!
Breaking the trip up in Guayaquil meant that the last leg of the my journey, up and over the Andes, would take less than 6 hours. When it's just CiCi and me in the car, I put on a good podcast (This American Life is still my favorite) and we only pause once -
Anton's Bday Dinner
A multi-lingual celebration with Anton (R), his parents (Russian), his sister Olga (blonde) and her boyfriend Frank (beside her) , two of my English students (Jorge & Liz). A delicious, joyful evening! maybe twice - for PeePee stops. Oh, and I often stop for a bunch of red bananas at a sharp curve in the highway where there's a sign naming the village (three houses), Panza Redonda (round paunch). For 50 cents they give me about 20 bananas! On the way to the coast I noticed a beautiful new rest stop at the summit of the mountains, so I paused there for a stretch on my way back. From their scenic overlook it feels like you're higher than the clouds!
Back in Baños I was invited to another birthday gathering with the Russians, et al. Anton is one of my Spanish students and is a lovely young man. Two of the other students from the English group were there as well. The party was held at Anton's apartment, which is where Julie used to live and we dined in the room where I practiced yoga three times a week for over a year! For Anton's 33rd birthday party they ordered Indian food (yum). His sweet mom, Natalia, made two different birthday cakes - one with cream and berries and the other with matcha tea and
Selva & Baby Luca
Another chef's meal at my place - English student Elizabeth and her 4 yr old daughter Selva, who was entranced by 7 month old Luca with his mom Louisa. passionfruit. I gotta say, this family knows how to eat! It's always fun to have trilingual joke-telling and there's never a pause in the conversation (or explanation/interpretation of said conversation!)
When planning Chef Gabo's farewell Arepa Fundraiser I invited all the folks who had come to the taco party (many of them came again!) and I also invited my friends Frank and Louisa who drove all the way from Mera (about an hour into the jungle from where I live). I told them they were welcome to spend the night, make a mini-vacation of it..They brought their 7 month-old son Luca and their adorable pooch, Aliya. My lovely, young Argentine renter had just moved out, having found something cheaper and closer to the town center where she works, so the rental suite was available to them. Several of my English students came to the gathering, and Elizabeth brought along her four year-old daughter, Selva (which means jungle in Spanish). Selva was fascinated by sweet baby Luca and spent hours playing peek-a-boo with him and engaging him in silly laughter exchanges.
Alas, the next morning Frank and
With Frank & Luca
We drove up the mountain for a yummy meal at Ofrenda de los Inca (offering of the Incas), a new restaurant with breathtaking views! Louisa's car wouldn't start. It was a Sunday and the chances of finding a tow truck were slim to none -- it's hard to even find a taxi on Sundays as it's typically the day that families spend together. So, we had the pleasure of spending another wonderful day together! In the early evening we drove up the mountain and tried out a new restaurant called 'Offering of the Incas'. It was a beautiful, clear afternoon so the drive up and up to the antennas afforded stunning views of town below and the volcano beyond. The restaurant was very unique, good food creatively presented, and we ended up chatting with the other diners as we watched the sun dip behind the mountain silhouettes.
The tow truck came the next morning (only an hour and a half later that the agreed-upon time...that's Ecuadorian punctuality or what we like to call 'elastic time') and my friends were on their way, but we met up again two weeks later for the hand-off of Gabo's donations for their volunteers. The jungle reserve that Frank started over 20 years ago is doing such important work - rescuing, rehabilitating
At Swiss Bistro in the Jungle
Patrick (Swiss), me, Louisa (British), Frank (Dutch) and baby Luca after a lovely lunch together at Patrick's jungle paradise, La Finca de la Vaca in Cumandá. and releasing wild animals back into the wild. Louisa is a vet and came as a volunteer about 10 years ago, she and Frank fell in love, and the rest is history. If you'd like to learn more about Merazonia Wildlife Refuge, here's a link to their homepage. Donations are always gratefully received! https://www.merazonia.org/
Whenever Maricarmen and Shana and I get motivated to drive down towards the jungle to have lunch at Swiss Bistro's Finca de la Vaca, I give Frank and Louisa a heads' up -- just in case they can get free and join us! This time we went down early to have time to first take a swim in the river just across the bridge from the restaurant. There's nothing quite so heavenly as swimming in nature! We continued on to the restaurant and after we ordered our food, Mari went for another swim in the pools that Patrick has built along the bends in the river. After lunch (yes, I waited a half hour!) I went for a swim in the pools with Frank, Louisa and Luca. The owner Patrick is an old friend and we all posed for
Bathing Beauty
Maricarmen poses at the Cumandá River - a beautiful spot with natural swimming holes. a photo to send to our mutual friends, Maja and Aurelio who own Hostería Mandala on the coast. In this pic, Frank is wearing his Save the Whales Mandala T-shirt!
The local Baños antique guy, Moises, brought huge sacks of coins from his storerooms so my friend Steve could peruse them. Steve spent two hours looking thru trays and bowls of filthy, rusty coins -- knowing exactly which ones might have some actual value. He was in heaven! I used this time to sift through boxes and boxes of old watch parts. I'm eager to do some baubling projects with my findings -- the steampunk style appeals to me.
So I'm off to the US in a couple of weeks. It will be so nice to see my siblings and I am in dire need of new clothes & shoes. My sister-in-law will take me thrift shopping and to Marshall's, TJ Maxx.& DSW Shoes! The clothing here is not of good quality -- three washings and they're done for...and good shoes are incredibly expensive. I do love discount shopping for good quality clothing and footwear!
Steve the Coinmaster
Statue of Moses in the background, namesake of the antique shop owner, Moisés. Steve was in heaven, sifting through old coins for hours while I perused old watch parts to make steampunk art frames. Please be sure to scroll all the way to the end to see the bonus pics I've tacked on. I try to make the photos fit with the text, but there are always leftover pictures at the end!! Thanks for reading. Until next time...
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Kathy Comerci
non-member comment
Fun!
Loved reading all about your latest adventures, especially the dog stories and descriptions of all the food. My two favorite things! Looking forward to seeing photos of your bauble art with the watch parts as my dad was a watchmaker. Your blogs are so descriptive it makes me feel as though I'm right there with you. ❤