Hanging out in Vilcabamba

---

We stayed at a nice Hostel called the Secret Garden Hotel. It did have a secret garden with a banana tree, also lemon and grapefruit trees with fruit on them. Hammock for resting on and completely surrounded by a wall that you would not know there was such a garden inside. We were surprised at how clean the countryside and towns are and how modern the cars are, to the rest of South America. As we traveled here we thought the countryside looked very much like New Zealand and the local National Park is called Podocarpus after the trees that are Kauri, also toitoi and tree ferns and other ferns. We felt like we were at home except for the different architecture, roading, horses and donkeys. The weather was cooler but the sun was hot.

This town has the highest longevity of South America and so we thought we would stay a bit longer so some of it would rub off on us. I have a theory of what the secret is, no flat ground, everyone walks everywhere, and vegetarian restaurants everywhere. But we found some meat ones.

Across the road from the Hostel was a New Zealander - Gavin Moore who runs horse trekking trips up into the podocarpus. Paul arranged a two day trip with him starting the next day.

23rd Paul and two hard case English girls with little horse riding experience, Gavin and Domingo a young helper took off into the yonder. As they were getting the horses ready a man got on a gave Paul's horse a bit of a work out and I said, he is getting the kick out of him for you and the man said, I am getting the whore out of her. I thought this was a nasty thing to say about a horse, especially when he got a comb out of his pocket and tidied her fringe and mane to make her look pretty. Off they went high into the rain forest, trotting and galloping, it was a four hour ride to Gavin's camp where we unsaddled the horses and had a big feed. It was a very spectacular view. Gavin took us for a walk though some of the cloud forest and we could see where cougars had marked and covered over spoor, scratched trees, armadillos had dug in the ground and left spoor, with spectacular waterfalls coming over cliff faces. Gavin showed us a flat area where Indians had lived before the Spanish had arrived with stones they used for grinding for corn still there. This is high in the mountains. Back to camp for a really fine hotel type meal with candles, vodka and orange and wine. Paul really got into the spirit of the night. Paul was the first up in the morning, the rest stirred with slight hangovers, breakfast was had, horses saddled and off to the nearest pub, 3 1/2 hours away. As soon as we hit the flats Gavin and Paul galloped all the way to the pub, first bottle was had before the girls arrived. Another bottle and a gallop into town. A great time was had by all and an evening out at a local restaurant was organised.

While Paul was out gallivanting and galloping, Josie was hanging out in town, catching up on laundry, blogs and trying to stop jumping every time a bang went off. A local custom here is to let off explosives to let everyone know there is a party on that night. The town was getting ready for Independence holiday that weekend and were starting to get into the party mode Wednesday. These bombs went off at irregular times during the day and night and I jumped every time. They were loud like bird scarer's, some louder than others and sometimes an hour between and others a few minutes apart. Josie jumped every time.

The meal at the restaurant was steak -- for 4 of us, with beers and other drinks including rum, cost $22.50. Paul went back to Gavins for another session, while I went back to the Hostel to pack for leaving town the next day.

---