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Vilcabamba
The church in Vilcabamba. The City is surrounded by mountains. I just can´t believe my luck. My journey just keeps getting better and better. I mean, how can you top my Galapagos adventure? I left you in Guayaquil, right? In order to search for Horse Heaven. Well, I found it in Vilcabamba!
A friend looked up a description of Vilcabamba and sent it to me. I can´t describe it any better. It is described as a small corner of paradise, where the mountains hold a magical mystical quality with their arid ridges and lush ravines, dramatic skies and rich colours and the only sounds are those of nature. It is also called the Valley of Longevity. I should tell you that the 'sounds of nature´ include roosters that begin crowing at 4am in the morning! But, it is true. This is one of the most beautiful and tranquil places I´ve ever seen! And, for such a small town, it offers not one but two vegetarian restaurants and 1 1-2 hour massages for $15!
When I arrived, I checked into the a pretty hostel called El Jardin Escondido, then immediately went across the street to Caballos Gavilan, where a crazy and colorful kiwi runs a horse trekking business. He
Vilcabamba
Me and my horse, Wilco, on the trail to the waterfall. In the background is Vilcabamba. set me up the very next day on a four hour ride to the beautiful waterfall called El Palto. The trail was incredible. Very steep and technical. I would never had imagined horses could make it up something like this. The horses were amazing though and had no problems! On the flats, they loved to run. It felt good to be back in the saddle. The horse here is the Pervian Paso Fino. They are gated horses which means riding them is like sitting in a rocking chair! Very comfortable. One day, I paid a premium to ride on of the ´elite´ horses. What a treat!
My guide, the very cute Darwin, spoke no english. Another girl, Saskia from the states spoke excellent spanish and did the translating that first day. After the ride, I knew I was here to stay awhile. I signed up for another ride the next day, a six hour ride, and arranged to ride in the mornings and take spanish lessons in the afternoon for the rest of the week and the following week. He took me on many trails around Vilcabamba and a couple of haciendas with some incredible horses. I rode to
Trail to El Palto
Saskia and Darwin on the trail to the waterfall, El Palto. so many places that my guide had to think up a new route for me! It was quite the adventure. At first, we tried to take an obviously little used trail that cut through to some other pueblos but were denied when we came across a large tree that had fallen across the trail. We ended up just using the roads. It was a long day from pueblo to pueblo. We were tired, the horses were tired.
Darwin and I became fast friends. We would ride in the mornings and hang out in the evenings after my spanish lessons. For a long time, I´ve obsessed about what it would be like to live in a small town in Latin America working with horses. Well, now I know. It is very different here! Unlike the rest of the cities in Ecuador which are just getting started at 9 or 10 at night, the restaurants seemed to close by 8:30pm here. In the evenings, we would play cards, chess, ping pong, pool, watch pirated movies in spanish (including Spiderman III which I need to watch again in english!) or sitting outside watching the town drunks stumble around! One night, around midnight,
El Palto
The waterfall is so tall I was unable to fit it in the frame! we were sitting in the central park listening to some people serenading mothers outside their windows. It was quite lovely, but, I never saw the mothers get up and come to the windows! Occasionally, there would be live music somewhere. Fridays, there is one disco that offers dancing. We went there but we were, I kid you not, the only people there from about 9:30pm until after midnight! The good thing is we did have the entire dance floor to ourselves! But, there really isn´t much going on inVilcabamba besides the outdoors. There are no cinemas, no art walks, no sushi, no Starbucks, no good chocolate ice cream and ... no crime! It is a lifestyle very different from Sacramento.
I did get some other activities in besides horseback riding. One day, Darwin and I hiked to Agua de Hierro Springs, a very beautiful little spring. Another day we went to another pueblo for my favorite ecuadorian food, roasted pig, then afterwards to a resort of sorts called Los Lagos where we napped the day away in a hammock and played ´yo Veo Algun´ ( I spy). My last day we did a hike up to Mandango, a long
Jenny
This is me with Jenny at San Joaquin, a beautiful Hacienda owned by an American. She is a little foal whose mother died. I called her J.Lo. hike but we were rewarded with incredible 360 degree views.
The talk of the town were some young kids from England and the States who decided they were going to buy some horses and ride to Cuzco, Peru, a three month trek from Vilcabamba! The hardly knew each other, and knew next to nothing about horses. They spent their time there buying horses, gear, and learning how to take care of their horses - how to saddle, bridle and change horseshoes! I think Gavin, the crazy kiwi, made them spend a good part of a day just putting on and taking off the saddles! I was talking with them one night and casually mentioned to them not to forget horse grooming tools such as brushes and hoof picks. ´Horses in the wild are not brushed!´ one girl replied. ´I think there is a hoof pick in my swiss army knifeanother boy answered. I think they are crazy and am a bit worried about the horses.
Yesterday, I left Vilcabamba very sad. Darwin accompanied me to Loja and put me on a bus to Cuenca. Of all the places I´ve visited, this has been my favorite (but, I seem
Kisses from Provinciano
This georgous palamino pasa fino lives at a Hacienda called Mollepamba, owned by an Ecuatoriano. Here, he is very tranquil and liked giving me kisses! to say that after every trip). Will I return? My friends Carolyn, Paul and Karen want to go to Machu Picchu in December. Maybe I´ll return to Vilcabamba and the horses after Machu Picchu. But right now, I consider this time in Vilcabamba a gift from the Universe and will treasure it always!
I arrived in Cuenca yesterday where I had intended to take a bus to Quito today. But, finding myself exhausted, I decided to rest today. I hooked up with some chicas I met in Vilcabamba and we went to visit Carlos (remember the artist from Colombia). Once again, I found myself sitting for some sketches. He sketched the three of us together and then made copies - one for each of us. And, for our own copy, he painted the person. It is very interesting! I´ve included pictures of the results!
I decided to skip the bus to Quito and have bought a ticket on a plane instead, intending to go to Otavalo for a few days before returning to the States (don´t worry Terry, I´m coming back!).
So friends, I leave you once again as my journey winds down. Will I make it
Provinciano and Darwin
Darwin lunging Provinciano. He seemed so tranquil when we were brushing him. But, once he started running, he became quite emotional and spirited! He was beautiful to watch! to Otavalo? Stay tuned !!!
LuAnne
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Eric
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I feel for you
Sounds like the perfect adventure. Curious to hear how this affects some of your future plans. BTW, I have the contact info of an artist in Otavalo if you're interested. I think you'd find him easy on the eyes....Laura can verify.