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Published: January 25th 2024
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(Author’s Note: I visited Cuenca and surrounding areas in Azuay Province during the second and third weeks of January 2024. During this time, the Ecuadorian government had established a state of emergency to combat the drug gangs in the country. Except for a few pockets of violence in and around the city of Guayaquil on the Pacific coast, the country was as tranquil and safe as normal. This trip marked my fifth time to Ecuador, and the experience was as peaceful and enjoyable as the previous four.) The cold wind whipped down the rocky slopes of the mountains into the depression where glaciers had carved out a lake. The altitude was 13,000 feet above sea level. The air was thin. I breathed heavily as my guide led the way on a portion of an Inca trail that went all the way from what is now Cajas National Park 120 miles west to the Pacific coast. At its height before the Spanish arrived the mid-1500s, the Incan empire stretched from Colombia to Chile. Ecuador is home to portions of the trail that linked the empire. And the area in and around Cuenca boasts many Incan sites. But before the
Incas arrived in the area in the 14
th century Cuenca was the home of the Cañari people, a matriarchal culture that founded the city in 500 A.D. But archaeologists have discovered evidence of human habitation in the region dating back 10,000 years. In short, there is a rich history in the Cuenca area that makes visiting there worthwhile for any traveler who enjoys history and who savors stunning landscapes.
Cuenca, which sits at an elevation of 8,500 feet above sea level, is a city of approximately 600,000 people. The old city center, which has a Spanish colonial charm that makes it eminently walkable, features hundreds of fine restaurants, shops, and art galleries. In the heart of old town is the Park Calderón, where you can find shade from the intense Andean sun. Flanking the park is the original city cathedral, a glowing white structure that dates back to the 1500s. On the other side of the park is the immense new cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, which was completed in 1995 after one hundred years of construction. The cathedral, which is the largest Catholic church in Latin America, boasts distinctive blue tile domes that float above the old town.
Inside the church you can see beautiful stained-glass windows in which local artisans depicted dark skinned religious figures as a tribute to the indigenous people who built the church and who worship there today.
The word Cuenca in Spanish means river basin. Four rivers cross through the city: Tomebamba, Tarqui, Tanucay, and Machángara. The apartment where I stayed overlooked the rushing Tomebamba, which was full of rain water cascading down from the surrounding mountains. The citizens of Cuenca proudly point out that their city has the purest drinking water in the entire country, thanks to the run off from the high peaks.
In addition to strolling through the streets of the old town, I also recommend visiting the Pumapungo Museum and Archaeological site. The museum has wonderful exhibits that describe the various indigenous cultures of Ecuador. One of the most popular and striking (maybe also cringe worthy) displays is that of several shrunken heads from the Amazon region. After taking in the museum, I walked outside to the Incan ruins. The word Pumapungo means “Door of the Puma.” In the late 15
th century, the complex was built by the Inca emperor Huayna Capac for religious, political, and astronomical
purposes. The terraces display the impressive craftmanship of the Incas.
In addition to exploring the city, I took two excursions to the stunning countryside. Just a thirty-minute drive west of the city is Cajas National Park, where you can hike through cloud forests and high, bleak moorlands. The park contains over 1,000 glacial lakes. As noted before, the area has many Incan trails. My guide pointed out that a select group of Incan men would train to be trail runners who delivered messages and goods from one end of the empire to the others. But if they were late, the king could have the runners executed. That’s one tough performance evaluation.
On the other trip, the guide took me to the verdant region southwest of Cuenca near the border with Peru. The area is home to small dairy farms and market villages tucked into breathtakingly beautiful green mountains valleys. There, I visited the Giron waterfall and Lake Busa. It’s an area that few tourists visit, but I highly recommend for its lush green scenery.
Even though this was my fifth trip to Ecuador, the country continues to enchant me with its friendly people, rich history, and unparalleled
geographic beauty and diversity.
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