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Meet Scarlett O'Sare
Here she is -- my brand new, bright red, double cabin Nissan Frontier pick-up truck. I finally got to drive her off the lot the day after my birthday. Warning – in this blog entry you’ll have to put up with more pictures of me than usual. I forgot to bring my camera charger with me to Quito; I didn't realize I'd end up having to stay in the big city for a total of five (5!) weeks. Once my camera battery died I went looking at photo stores for a way to charge it, but it seems they don’t sell HP cameras here! The photos in this blog were mostly taken by Sue (visiting from Calif) and Lupe (my Quiteña friend). Since friends were shooting the pictures, I ended up in them!
Between the paperwork for my new visa (which is still in process), bank transfer challenges (major delays), and the purchase of a new vehicle (registration still pending). It seems that everything that could go wrong, did … and then some! The courier service lost the documents that were (finally) sent up from the coast to my lawyer's office in Quito, then the immigration office rejected them because some had my full name and others only had a middle initial (argh!) And as ALWAYS happens, they demand more and
Sue with Hummingbird
Beautiful day in Quito -- Sue just arrived from California and we walked across Carolina Park to visit these colorful statues. more paperwork, informing that something else is missing just when you thought that everything was in order. I decided that these lessons in patience were my birthday challenge (present?) this year!
Having so much “free” time in Quito, I vowed that I’d finally visit some museums I’d never been to. Alas, it never happened. When Lupe got back from her vacation with visiting friend Marianne, I moved into a hostel. I’ve learned that it’s very dangerous for me to have a TV where I can watch it from bed. I spent a few days as a total slug immersed in video vegging! After Marianne continued on her travels, I moved back onto the sofa bed in Lupe's living room. As you'll recall from the last blog entry, her place overlooks the bustling 6th of December Avenue (most major thoroughfares are named with the date of some battle or historical event). Traffic became even more congested as usual since a major works project had begun; burying the unsightly power lines. Existing sidewalks had been ripped up and the temporary wooden walkways they erected blocked a full lane of traffic! Needless to say,
Hummingbird Display
Dozens of painted and decorated "colibri" birds lined the "boardwalk" of Quito's "Central Park". honking increased tenfold! I also continued to watch the construction work on the building next door. Fascinating to see how they excavated a three story sub-basement and cemented the walls using metal panel molds.
Lupe's place is conveniently located a few blocks from Parque Carolina (Quito's Central Park). I did take quite a few early morning walks across the park to the clinic (I had to bring in a three day poop sample series to the lab – no parasites!) Alas, any weight-loss benefits from the exercise was offset by my almost daily bagel treats (oh, how I’d been missing REAL bagels!) Mister Bagel Cafe is owned by an American from NY and the flavored cream cheese smears are to die for; smoked salmon spread, herbs and chive, yum yum! And located a just a block away from Lupe’s apt! I saw a notice on the bulletin board at Mr. Bagel, so I contacted the editor about a job writing and selling advertising for the Miami Herald, International Edition which is published 6 days a week in Quito. I've now met with the editor several times and he's already published my
Mr Bagel - a taste of home
I would have lost more weight during my 5 wks in Quito if not for these yummy bagels with crm cheese -- located practically next door to Lupe's apt -- Dang! first piece - an article about Banos! I hope to earn a little extra cash selling ads to hotels and restaurants as I travel around the country. For each one I sell I'll also write an "advertorial" article about the business.
I finally made a decision about my new vehicle. In the end it was between a 2012 Mazda truck, a 2012 Nissan Frontier, or a 2010 low-mileage loaded 4WD Chevy DMAX.The brand new Nissan truck won out! Having decided, I just had to wait for the (seemingly interminable) bank transfers from the sale of my property. I noticed that all the car dealerships (and the insurance office too) hired beautiful indigenous women (wearing ornate traditional dress) to serve tea and juice to the prospective clients. Interesting way to fuse ethnic pride with technological modernity, but I have to say that somehow it felt a bit "paternalistic" to me.
On the road up to the car dealers I'd often see men sitting on the curb holding pipes, spigots or shower heads. What an odd way to sell plumbing supplies, I thought. When one day
Come for a ride....
Finally, Scarlet is safe in Shana's carport in Banos! She's so shiny and clean...not for long!! I saw a guy holiding a paint roller, I realized that these guys were day labourers, journeymen who were advertising their expertise. After that I noticed another holding a hammer and one with a ceramic tile & grout spatula. What a simple and clever way for workers to advertise their area of expertise. The spirit of entrepreneurship extends to the multitude of vendors who hawk their wares at busy intersections. "Drive-thru" shopping as they approach your vehicle selling fruit & vegetables, cell phone accessories, inflatable toys, underwear and more!
While I was in Quito, a few Baños friends came up (for immigration paperwork, medical or dental appointments). I was able to meet them for lunch or dinner; once I tagged along to a 3 year-old’s birthday party. One evening I was invited for dinner up at my friend Deb’s. I’ve known Deb and her family since 1988; it’s always a nice homey feeling at their house. Deb had made a lemon meringue pie and, even though it was still 2 wks until my bday, she stuck a sparkler candle in my desesrt! As I cuddled with Deb’s 12 yr old Golden
Feed Me!!
At the Botanical Gardens I posed with this funny foam plant statue -- reminded me of "Little Shop of Horrors". Retriever, Woody, I realized how much I’ve been missing doggie love. The next day I spent an hour cuddling puppies at a pet shop! (Note: On Feb 27th Woody joined Chaco in doggie heaven).
Sue is a retired nurse from Fresno whom I met five years ago when she'd first decided to build a house on the coast up at Playa Escondida. She arrived for her annual visit and we had two days together in Quito before she left for her beach house. Now I was motivated to kick into tourist mode a bit! We enjoyed the urban art display of hummingbird statues, and then strolled through the park to the Botanical Gardens. We spent a l-o-n-g time in the orchid greenhouse (exquisite blooms!) and were transfixed by the "carnivorous" pitcher plants (scroll all the way down to the end of the photos to see some stunning portraits of these insectivores.
Sue and I decided that we wanted to try ice skating (I'd heard there was a rink at one of the shopping centers). We didn't last long on the rink --
Handicraft Museum
Dramatic lighting highlights the wonderful textiles at the Mindalae museum! the skates were molded plastic (like cheapo ski boots) that cut into our ankles and calves -- after just four or five times around the scratched & choppy ice, we packed it in and gave up. In the afternoon we visited the Mindalae Handicraft Museum -- such a classy display of the finest artisan work from each region of the country.
I was so grateful to Lupe for putting me up (putting up with me!) for so long in her fantastic apartment. As a way to thank her I invited her for a weekend away in Oyacachi, a community tourism hot springs project located in the high parramo of the Andes (over 11,000 ft). Since I didn't yet have my new truck we took Lupe's Vitara, but I insisted on paying for gas, food and lodging. The traffic getting out of the city was terrible, but finally we emerged from the congested Quitus valley and big views of lush green hillsides opened before us. Having spent more than a month in the city I was craving contact with nature.
Lupe and I
Snowcap over the Parramo
Great to get out of the city! Driving with Lupe in her SUV -- this route is studded with waterfalls and snowy hillsides peek from behind. had been to Oyacachi once together over 4 years ago and we were glad to see that the place hadn't changed too much. We arrived in time for a relaxing afternoon dip in the hot pools (ahh!!!) and found our lodging just before nightfall. They were new cabanas outside of town along the river. It's really cold up there at night and some of the window openings were only covered with plastic (we could see our breath inside!). Each bed was piled with heavy wool blankets -- not the best arrangement for someone like me who does a lot of tossing and turning (aerobic sleeping), but I managed.
In the morning we huddled by the fireplace for breakfast and then went back to the thermal mineral pools. There's something very cleansing (physical, emotional, spiritual) about those hot baths. Stunning views all around since Oyacachi sits in a pocket valley high in the Andes. A silvery parramo mist enhances the views of the hillsides studded with waterfalls. Gnarled trees draped with "old man's beard" mosses, bizarre & wonderful flowers and glossy swaying tufty grasses -- all perfectly adapted to thrive at high
La Bola Equator Marker
At the base of Cayambe Volcano, the equatorial line crosses the highway. This monument marks the spot. (My hand is resting on Benin) altitude.
On the way back to Quito we stopped at La Bola, a carved stone globe which sits on the equator line. We also had a decadent meal at La Vaca, a fancy ranch-like restaurant with beautiful grounds. All too soon we were back in the big city but the weekend getaway refreshed and energized us both! Next blog entry to follow in the next two weeks -- including my birthday party, travels with Sue in the jungle & my trip back down to the coast. Feels SO great to be bopping all over the country again after staying put for almost six months! Thanks for reading and PLEAZZZE do scroll down to see the FLORA FOTOS at the very bottom!
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Karen Hinton
non-member comment
love the pictures
Jill, I enjoy your blogs every time you send one. I loved the unusal flowers. I remember every lovey thing about Eucador, especialy the flowers. I have the month of September off this year and I want to do some traveling and volunteer work. Do you know of anything I could help with in Eucador? I would love to meet you too!