A fleeting visit to Ecuador

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It has been a very rushed visit to Ecuador, and it feels like I only got to nibble on the peanuts while everyone else enjoyed the fillet steak. I want to come back for the main meal! From the brief glimpse I have had, it is a stunningly beautiful country and I would love to see more of it.

After getting back to Quito from the rainforest yesterday afternoon, I met up with Jackie who had been in my group in the rainforest, and we did a whirlwind tour of Quito Old Town. Unfortunately the weather was not great and not long into our excursion it started to rain. The irony of having been in a rainforest fully prepared for rain, which never truly eventuated and what short bursts of rain we had never lasted for long, and then arriving in Quito and having the heavens open, was not lost on us. However we only had a couple of hours of daylight so not a lot of time to explore anyway.

We caught a taxi into the old town and started in Plaza Grande on a small walking tour of our own making. Like most other historic Latin American cities I have visited, the town is awash with churches. We decided early on that we didn't need to visit them all, and as luck would have it we stumbled into the most ornate and spectacular church in all of Ecuador in our very first one. Iglesia La Compañia de Jesús didn't look much from the outside, but inside it was absolutely spectacular. Built from 1605 to 1765 it is Baroque style, which basically means it is liberally covered with gilt leaf, there are beautiful paintings on all the walls, and any remaining wall space is covered in beautifully painted intricate patterns. But as no photos are permitted you'll have to take my word for it.

We then wandered up La Ronda and weaved our way through the streets until we reached La Basilica, which was a completely different Gothic style. It didn't seem very open, however we found a way in through the chapel and discovered an open door into the large church, which allowed us a quick tour. We then sneaked back through the chapel, trying not to disturb the people worshiping and were back into the grey Quito drizzle looking for a taxi. Our brief tour of the old town was over.

This morning I had another early start, ready for my day trip to the Otavalo Markets a couple of hours drive from Quito. I had booked a driver, Guillermo, who was fantastic. I have to confess at first I thought he was a granny driver, then I realised I'd become accustomed to the random driving in Colombia, as really all he was doing was indicating, giving way, stopping at traffic lights, and not driving at a breakneck pace. The other good thing was that we established early on that Guillermo speaks some English, but was very happy to spend the entire day talking in Spanish so I could practice. Very encouragingly I could understand just about everything.

Guillermo drove to the animal markets at Otavalo first up, after stopping a few places for photos of the gorgeous scenery. He also talked about different sights along the way, as things came along. The animal markets only happen on a Saturday and very early in the morning. It was fascinating! People bring a cow, a pig, a sheep, lamb, rabbits, chickens, whatever they would like to sell, and obviously if you want to buy any of these this is the place to be!

Next up we headed to the markets themselves, which are open every day, however Saturday is the best day to visit apparently. Everything imaginable was for sale for purchase by locals and tourists alike. It was fascinating just wandering around, but of course I needed to experience it properly, so purchases were necessary!

After driving to a place with a gorgeous viewpoint over a lake nestled amongst volcanic mountains, we had lunch at a restaurant with one of the best views I've ever come across. And the food was sensational too. You will be pleased to hear that one more Guinea Pig (Cuy) lives today, as although Cuy is one of the specialist national dishes of Ecuador, apparently it was going to take an hour to prepare. Phew, I wasn't sure I was ready to try it anyway! So I had a delicious grilled trout instead. Afterwards they brought out a little taster of Punta, which is also known as Aguardiente , or 'fire-water'. Although I hadn't had the Cuy, apparently after you've killed it (by eating it) you skull a shot of Punta. Fire Water it most definitely was.

From there we headed off to a small village just north of Otavalo called Cotapachi. This town is filled with shops selling leathergoods of every possible kind - shoes, boots, jackets, handbags, belts, wallets.....Some serious damage could be done in Leathertown! Luckily I had limited time available to me, not to mention a luggage limit, but I did manage to sneak in a replacement handbag purchase, replacing the stolen one in Buenos Aires. Well, I had to do my bit for the Ecuadorian economy.

So that was my flying visit to Ecuador. Six days was not nearly long enough of course, but it was a great introduction to a country with lots to see.

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Photos

Iglesia de la Compania de Jesus
The imposing exterior hides a stunning baroque style interior

Ecuadorian lunch
Not at all what I was expecting, but delicious all the same.

Different kind of wild life
Brownie, the resident rabbit at La Rabida, my hotel.

Comments

[anonymous]

good pics
looks a lot more like Peru in terms of dress style etc - ie more evidence indigenous culture.

[Yvonne]

Amazon and Ecuador
Two marvellous accounts-Ecuador looks fascinating and so colourful, but it was the rain forest that left me speechless and very tempted!

[Campbell]

I am pleased you went with the trout rather than the guinea pig for lunch. I tend to think of the guinea pig as a primary school class pet rather than a main course.